2018 SDuro Trekking 6.0 (Yamaha) review

McRat

New Member
Well, there are still some of these at stores, so I thought I'd do a late review. These were 33% off on the Haibike website, so it's quite a bargain at $1,999 USD.
Shipping was prompt and free, with the option to have it delivered to a bike shop and assembled for free. A website error did not give me the Assembled option, so I can comment on Home Delivery.
The bike arrived as an 'open box' with no parts list, so I just have to assume it included everything that was intended.
Minor paint damage on the rack and top of fork by the LOCK/UNLOCK lever occurred during shipping. Battery was installed into its location, but the battery was fully discharged, no response by pushing the button. It required 3.5 hrs to fully charge with the supplied power supply. The plug is a bit dainty, and is a slide-lock connector. Verify orientation, slide back the connector sleeve, and insert fully, then release.
Assembly requires a set of metric allens up to 6mm and a #2 Phillips, or better a set of Phillips. There are no instructions available according to Haibike Tech Support. After going through all the docs, they are of little use for this model.
Assembly is straight forward if you've assembled mid-grade eBikes before, with a couple exceptions. A convenient fork stand that it ships with makes it a one person job, and you'll be done well before the battery charges.
Exceptions:
The headlight mounts on the front of the fork cross brace where the plastic logo plate is. On the backside you'll see two smaller Phillips screws, remove these and save them. Use the right sized Phillips screwdriver, especially if you notice damage on the screw heads which mine had. Remove logo plate, mount light on that side, then replace the two screws on the back of the fork. Be careful not round out the heads. The bigger hole below (M6x1) is for the fender top mount.
The fender mounts strangely, and is not quite right. First put in the 10mm hex / Phillips top bolt through the fender tab with the lock washer, and leave loose for now. There are two nickel plated screws on backside of the forks, back off the screws enough to snap (forcefully) the fender struts on. The disc side will have some interference with the brake hose, push it aside. If you really want to make it secure, disassemble the plastic strut fitting, and you can tighten the fork screws, then reassemble. Height adjustment is done at the top tab which might not have enough clearance so push it up high. The back stays have a pinch bolt to adjust back of the wheel clearance.

Now the bike itself. First the good parts:

The Yamaha drive system has lots of torque right out of the gate. It will climb pretty much anything within reason. More torquey than the Bosch 250w bikes at low crank RPM. The display even tells you how much power the motor is putting out. The LCD battery life indicator is in % and has 10 bars at the display, and 4 bars at the battery. Pushing the button on the battery does not unintentionally start the bike like the Bosch. There is a micro-USB port on the left side thumb pad to charge a low-powered device. Display is easy to read, easy to reset trips, easy to turn on the headlight, easy to check all important bike functions.
Handling is good up to 30mph+ which would be a downhill. Top speed at 110 rpm is ~40 mph. Brakes are powerful one-finger with good feel.
Preliminary riding is indicating about 50 miles in light hilly terrain at an average speed of 14 mph with the 500 Wh battery. Tires have good traction on bad pavement with light sand/gravel and fireroads. And they are reflector tires. The grips are nice and comfy. It's a fun ride.

Now the not as good parts:
As sold, the XL High Step is 54lb. Not too much of a problem at that price point, but even with the battery removed, it exceeds the 20kg limit found on many bike carriers.
If you have strong legs, stay away from the smaller rear cogs and HIGH assist. It adds enough torque at low RPM to make the chain skip. I found this out early on since that's how I normally ride.
I've seen reviews on how quiet a Yamaha is compared to a Bosch, but they are both about as loud IMO. You can definitely hear the assist.
Looking at the picture attached:
A) For my tastes in a long distance bike, I like a comfort seat. The factory seat is good quality, but is not a comfort seat which is in the picture. The seat post would not let me put the saddle that low. The seat tube is obstructed at about 5" of protrusion. Get a copper tube cutter if you don't have one, and it will go right through the tube without leaving a burr or deforming it. Hacksawing will work, but a tube cutter is cheap, fast, and does a better job. The tube is thin enough, so I turn the knob, do 2 rotations, turn the knob, and repeat until cut through. This will not work on steel or thick seat tubes.
B) The shifter lever and brake lever are one-finger designs. And they are easy to confuse. There is no gear indicator on the 10-sp rear or 2-sp front. This would have been SO EASY for Yamaha to code into the control. They know crank RPM, and rear wheel RPM, so they could have done it. There is no Shimano gear indicator. There is a 'bell' on the right side. Cough. OK. If you want anyone to hear it from 10 feet away, you'll need to swap. The Yamaha LCD requires a coin battery (2032) instead of just running off battery power. The headlight is more for people to see you, than you to see debris on the ground. You might want to add a secondary light.
C) The paint on the rear rack is temporary. It rubbed off during shipping. Not a big deal. The rack is set up for some kind of accessory(s) but no info on what attachment(s) are available. Paint on the forks was chipped, but it's not soft paint like the rack.
D) There are no 'water bottle' bungs on the frame, and the top tube is not round. Yes, it has a rack, but there are so many accessories that require a WB mount, that nearly all bikes have them. As you can see, I had to add one to accomodate my lock. The frame seat tube is obstructed, that 'straight' section you see is not as long as it appears.
E) The front fender doesn't fit the tire size. Wrong arc, not enough clearance at the top. Mine rubs, I fix it, it rubs again, I fix it. The back fender you can see daylight under, which is good. There is probably 1/2" at the most clearance on the front and that's being generous.
F) The tires have their good and bad points. They are narrow (1.750" measured), low profile (1.500" tall measured), and low pressure (36 psi). When you consider this bike is intended to carry 130 kg long distances, on poor roads, this is a flat waiting to be fixed. The 28" diameter and Presta style rims aren't doing it any favors either. A 2" sharp pothole lip will probably result in a flat. And if you run into a problem on a long trip, 28" and Presta is not as common in some areas.
G) This is just an opinion. A front derailleur is not that necessary on an eBike with a 10-sp rear. This bike has a gear that is both too tall (it's too slow of a bike to use it) for the bike and too low. Save weight, cost, and complexity. You might find that like me, you don't need that front.
H) I can already see that the front fender will be a source of maintenance or replacement. It's over-complicated and poorly made.
I) Knowing the purpose of the bike, a one dollar (retail) Presta > Schrader adapter would have been wise to include if they were insistent on Presta.

And last, I will beat a dead horse: Walk Mode and 28mph. Haibike says it's Yamaha's fault, Yamaha says it's Haibike's fault. In any case, neither Walk Mode or 28 mph is illegal for cross country travel or urban road travel in the US. They are bike lane laws. Other brands have Walk and/or 28mph with center drives. Many Yamahas have Walk enabled. And for a good reason on a "trekking" bike. Consider trying to cross a sand wash with a 54lb bike with 50lbs of gear on it on skinny tires. Or being forced to push a bike with a flat front.

But? At the price it's a good value, and an easy to ride bike. Worth the money, and whatever bugs I think it has are relatively minor.
 

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McRat

New Member
Note: I might sound too picky, but my review is referenced from Priority Embark (Bosch) $3000 at Costco, and a Jetson Adventure (Hub) at $1000 from Costco.
The things I mentioned as bugs on the Sduro Trekking 6.0, are in comparison.
Both others are lighter as sold with similar weight ratings, and are trekking style bikes.
Neither has the chain skip. Embark is CVT with Gates belt drive.
Both had adequate parts lists, tools, and instructions.
Both had better headlights.
Both have gear indicators.
Both allowed enough seat adjustment.
Neither had fender issues.
The Jetson had Schraders, the Embark has Presta. Neither are 28". They are 27.5.
Both have wider tires with taller profiles.

While there are advantages to the Haibike, there were more simple bugs than either of the other two bikes. While the Embark was more money, they spent it on the wide-ratio CVT with ratio indicator, and the Gates belt drive, and the higher cost Bosch drive.
 
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DDBB

Well-Known Member
I've had no trouble w/ the front fender rubbing on my trekking 6.0 and no chain skipping when pedaling hard in the smallest cog. Curious about the tires as mine are Michelin pro tec cross and I run them at 50psi. w/ no issues. I agree the bike is a great value at 2k
 
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McRat

New Member
I've had no trouble w/ the front fender rubbing on my trekking 6.0 and no chain skipping when pedaling hard in the smallest cog. Curious about the tires as mine are Michelin pro tec cross and I run them at 50psi. w/ no issues. I agree the bike is a great value at 2k
DOH! My bad. I looked closer at the sidewall rating. It is 36psi min, 87 max, I've been running them at 45 psig even though I thought the suggested pressure was 36. Tires were flat as shipped. I still think the tire and rim sizes were not wise for a rough road, long distance bike. But that is my opinion.

I cannot put a pinky tip under the fender at the top after maximum adjustment. The rear has adequate clearance. The tire cross section is larger than the fender which is the root of the problem. If the tire was narrower than the fender, it would not be an issue.

Go small front / little rear / assist off, and climb something tough. Now turn on assist to STD or HIGH. I can do this with no assist. With assist, it skips.
 
Are you sure you mean small front and little rear rather than small front and large rear?

No experience with skip on mine.

I ride in gravel a fair bit and agree that the front fender could use another 1/2" clearance.

The Priority is 400w

Those who want to exceed 20mph with assist have ways to get there. I wanted a Class 1 bike so that is what I bought.

I use both rings in the front. A ride yesterday had me going between 7 and 47 mph and 2,000 ft elevation.

Mine came with a different seat than yours, I pan to put a different seat on it regardless. My wife got a bike that came with an allowance, where you could buy whatever seat you wanted and they would credit you up to $50. I thought that was clever since saddles are so personal.

Agree about the headlight. I do not to ride at night but if I did I would replace it.

I am getting used to no display of what gear I am in but I have other bikes that I ride and then notice it again. My display is set to RPM and I just focus on hitting my range and staying there so the gears are just to help maintain that, ends vs. means.

Thanks for the review
 

mrcadence

New Member
Thanks for the review. Please let us know if you replace the front fender, and which replacement you use. I’m in the market.

Have you noticed any rattling? I am noticing some on mine and trying to hunt it down. Not confirmed, but possible it’s coming from the bottom of the battery mount.
 

DDBB

Well-Known Member
My typical ride involves about a mile of dirt road. An occasional pebble will get hung up in the front fender so I agree more clearance would be nice but my tire doesn't rub. I have a little rattle that I think is coming from the cables inside the frame. I would like a gear position indicator as well but it's no biggie and agree w/ riding high. I just shift to whatever gear gives me the rpm I desire. I only have 400mi. on mine but have been really enjoying it. It's my 1st e-bike.. My wife has a Gazelle easy flow. Very different bike but hers has no rattles, good fitting fenders, enclosed chain and IGH with Shimano steps. Hers has more torque than mine and I get more of a workout than she does when we both ride in high assist on hills. I would not trade my Haibike for her Gazelle though as she has practically zero suspension. The Haibke is more comfortable to ride on a dirt road or broken pavement. I paid a little over 2k for my bike which in season last year it was a 3k bike so I'm pretty happy w/ the deal I got. I had researched e-bikes for months but probably should have researched even more. This will not be my last e-bike but I hate to think of what this bike will be worth in a year
 

McRat

New Member
My thoughts on various comments, in no particular order:

The smaller front not only maximizes force on the chain, it also makes the most slack in the chain. So maximum force, loosest chain is: Small Front, Little Rear. Minimum force on chain is Big Front, Big Rear, and since the gearing is pretty low there, it's hard to apply a lot of force on the pedals. The big ring up front with the big rear, will let you climb at 50 rpm at 5 mph. Running the bike in Big/Big at max - 130kg, I tried a steep slope with no assist, and I never had to stand up. But there is that No Walk thing, so maybe the small front ring is the supposed to be a surrogate for Walk with a dead battery. Obviously this isn't going to deal with a flat or sand wash.

If you decide you have a need to sustain 25mph, while this bike could do it, it would be a poor eBike choice. In my case, there are several roads with no shoulder at all, and are not wide enough for a bike and car, they are 25 or 35 mph speed limits. So you want to clear this as quickly as possible. It's not a great bike for that, my cheap Schwinn Phocus will clear these segments at 25-30 mph fairly easy. It's brutal on the Trekking. One reason for eBikes is safety around cars. You can run your lights every time, and you can clear intersections and tight spots in less time than you could on a standard bike. If 28 mph at <750w is legal, why not?

The fender issue is that the fender inside lip is virtually the same size as the tire. Attached is picture why that doesn't work. My fender might be distorted a bit, which would aggravate the clearance. The rear is not significant since it completely clears the tire like most bike fenders do.

Notice the picture shows good clearance at the top of the tire, but little clearance on the side. The fender was made for a narrower tire. So one fix is going to a 38 mm tire. Meh. Second method is raising the fender. But the forks block it. Third is to locate a fender that is 50mm wide or widen the existing fender with something like a baseball bat. Last? Remove it.
 

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Nova Haibike

Well-Known Member
You should not use the small/small or the big/big combinations. First, it makes no sense from a gear ratio perspective to use the high gear on one side and the low gear on the other. Second, It introduces too much cross-chaining, where the chain has to bend sideways at an extreme angle. Lastly, using the cross-chaining gears may be the cause of the skipping. Especially in the small/small combination, as the chain can rub against pick-up pins on the inside of the large chainring.
 

DDBB

Well-Known Member
I have a speed box on mine and can happily go 30mph with assist all the time. I agree though that a walk mode should be included/activated