All things SDuro

Discussion in 'Haibike Forum' started by Hugh Caldwell, May 15, 2017.

  1. Hugh Caldwell

    Hugh Caldwell New Member

    Thought I would start a thread for all the SDuro owners to share info, pictures, ride reports, issues, mods and whatever else might be SDuro related. If you have an SDuro please post up the model, size, your height/inseam and anything SDuro related.

    I'm 5'8" with a 29" or 30" inseam ( I buy 30" leg jeans). My ride is an 48cm SDuro Cross SM and I believe it's the ideal size for me.

    I found this detail on the handlebar pretty amusing. I'm wondering if it was something that was written on a design drawing and accidentally got included in the final product: WP_20170513_19_27_28_Pro.jpg

    Since I ride an SDuro SM which doesn't have an odometer I picked up a CatEye Urban+ wireless. One advantage of this is that if I move the speed sensor to the crank from the rear wheel I'll still have an accurate speedo and odo.

    I didn't want to use up any of my valuable "Extra Mounting Space" :D

    I located the speed sensor right over the front rotor. This is the third mounting location I tried. It seems awfully close to the rotor but the it's stopped from moving down by the bung for the front fender mount. Also if the sensor should come in contact with the spokes the spokes will just knock it out of the way. I had originally mounted the sensor on the back of the fork but if started interfering with the spokes it would be force into the wheel instead of away from it.

    Here is my SDuro Cross in it's natural element on the W&OD bike trail. I took it out for about 10 miles on Sunday which isn't particularly far but it is the longest bicycle ride I've taken in the last 10+ years.

    Some upcoming must do mods are a bottle cage, kickstand, and grips. Even on my relatively short ride I was really missing not having water with me. If anyone has recommendation on a good bottle mount and kickstand it would be appreciated.

    Your turn.


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  3. Svein Tore

    Svein Tore New Member

    Just bought myself a "demo bike" from a local dealer. The 2016 Sduro HardNine SL with 380km on its odometer. 29" wheels, probably a large frame (not quite sure). I've done 200km on it in three weeks. Loving every second of it. I'm a bit over the 120kg weight limit of the bike, but that does not seem to be a problem. Motor works great, but on a 15km ride with 580 height meters to the top of a mountain here, I lost 40km on the battery in the 7.5 km to the top (in Standard mode). Had to take some pauses on the way down because of very hot brakes.

    Looking for a bootle cage myself. I do have a backpack with a camelback, that works great, but I don't want to bring a backpack every time. Fitted a generic cheap stand that works ok.

    In general I'm very satisfied with the bike, it keeps me from gaming.. I even go out when it rains :)

    Edit: Found this:
    Last edited: May 22, 2017
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  4. Hugh Caldwell

    Hugh Caldwell New Member

    "It's a bitter line between love and hate" (1)

    Last Friday was "Ride to Work Day" so I took the opportunity to use my Cross SM to commute for the first time. The ride in was great even though I got a little lost and added a few miles to my commute. Since it was "Ride to Work Day" the local bicycle association had various rest stops out with free snacks and drinks. I stopped briefly at one and spotted a couple of other ebikes and overheard police officer and some riders discussing the need to regulate ebikes. Apparently we have a reputation as hooligans. :D


    When I left for the day I was really looking forward to the ride but within a mile of leaving work the computer started flashing and error message and motor stopped working. At this point the bike had less than 25miles on it and it already broke down! ARRRRGGGGH!

    It turns out that riding a 50lbs bicycle into a headwind when you're out of shape isn't nearly as fun as it sounds. (2)

    Then it started raining,

    and I almost got run over by a truck (it was my fault).

    I hate my Sduro what a POS!



    Saturday I contacted the ebikesofne and they emailed me a link to a youtube video showing how to reset the computer. I followed the procedure and it seems to have worked. I took the bike out on Sunday and it was running great again. Hopefully this is a onetime brainfart on the part of the computer.

    Below is the link to the youtube video on resetting the computer and the steps to perform:

    1) Turn on the bike
    2) Release the ignition button and press it again for 10 seconds until appear the 3 assistance modes.
    3) With the arrow key to go to "Eco" and press the "Light"
    4) You will see probably the word "E1"
    5) Press the light key and the two arrow keys.
    6) The display should light for a moment and go out.
    7) Turn the bike (it should work), leave it still and let the display to go off on its own (it will take about 5 minutes). This very important step.

    Keeping my fingers crossed!


    (2) The bike was surprisingly easy to ride home even without the motor. It didn't cheer me up.
    Last edited: May 22, 2017
    Ann M. likes this.
  5. Ann M.

    Ann M. Administrator

    Bravo Hugh for hanging in there even with the bike cutting out! With all things technical, have a little patience; sounds like the bike shop did a good job helping you get the system back on track.
    Hugh Caldwell likes this.
  6. Svein Tore

    Svein Tore New Member

    Love your storytelling :)
    Sorry about your trouble, not fun with a new product.
    My bike commute is too short to get lost, and it's a small city. 2.5km each way (moving in six months so it will double)
  7. JayVee

    JayVee Well-Known Member

    Just changed the front disk pads on my Trekking Sduro 6.0 after 2200 kilometers. It wasn't exactly as easy as I'd hoped. I removed both pads from the caliper at the same time with the rotor engaged, which I learned is a mistake with the Magura MT4s. When you do that the absence of weight provided by the pads means that the hyraudlic fluid will slightly push the pistons together. And since the rotor is engaged, you cannot use a screwdriver to push the pistons apart. So I resorted to removing the wheel, only to be confronted with the oddities of the quick-release through axle. You open the quick release as usual, but then need to push a 0.8 mm diameter rod through the fork holes. The piece that comes out is a shiny metal tube that looks more like a cooking utensile than a bike axle. After I got the wheel off, I pushed the brake pistons apart and slotted in the replacement koolstop pads. So far so good. But it's when I had to put back the wheel that things got 'interesting'. The rotor slipped into place between the pads perfectly, but getting the wheel fastened was a gotcha type thing. I threaded the quick-release thru-axle back into the wheel, and fastened it to the same torque setting as previously, only to discover that the handle could be manually rotated. Well, as it turns out, this is the normal behavior of the device. The wheel is fastened even though the handle can be rotated by hand. I was so skeptical that I went to the shop where I bought it and checked the behavior on the floor models. A mechanic confirmed that the important thing is that there be no lateral movement in the wheel: fasten it exactly like a normal quick release wheel. Anyway, I'm hoping that the koolstop pads will operate at a cooler temperature, as the rotor petals are slightly discolorated (blue-brown) which is indicative of heat. After the change of pads, the front brake shudders less and seems to have more stopping power. The pads seem softer though, and I'm wondering if they'll last as long.

    Now it's on to the rear pads in 100 kilometers. Not sure it's going to be easier as the screw which retains the pads is obstructed by the rear rack. So I might have to remove the entire caliper...
  8. Svein Tore

    Svein Tore New Member

    Did they last for 2200km?
  9. JayVee

    JayVee Well-Known Member

    Yup. Still had a bit of life in em (maybe 300 - 400 kilometers), but I decided to change them anyway as I have time this week.
  10. JayVee

    JayVee Well-Known Member

    I've now replaced the rear disk pads. I had the choice between either removing the rack or removing the caliper (as shown in Magura's video). This was (apparently) necessary because the rack is obstructing access to the screw retaining the pads and my L shaped torx screwdriver doesn't fit in the 19mm gap. I say apparently because I've come up with a better solution for next time as explained below.


    I had to apply so much torque to unscrew the caliper screws that I've ruined them, so they will need to be replaced. After I put in the disk pads and screwed back the caliper, I had disk pads that were rubbing. Ironically the orginal pads were still largely good. I've managed to attenuate the disk rub by removing the wheel and refastening it with a slightly different torque setting.

    To avoid this mess next time, I think I'll buy a small torx bit to remove the screw retaining the pads. I can drive the bit with a small wrench. Something like this should do the job:


    Anyway, I should have thought this out more carefully before jumping into it, and not let myself be influenced by Magura's video. So hopefully someone else won't make the same silly mistake. Just buy the torx bit, replace one pad at a time, and it will be a walk in the park.
  11. Svein Tore

    Svein Tore New Member

    Bought myself a very cheap bike repair stand yesterday, which actually turned out to work great. Was up two hours extra because I started to clean the chain (which was covered in crap). I do miss a stool with wheels.

    When I finish painting my house (and fence..) I'll do a more thorough "service". Love my new hobby :)
    Just have to find a way in the jungle of brake pads. Don't even know what I need, or when :D

    Jay: Something like this would help you?

    (I would remove the rack to do the job)
    JayVee likes this.
  12. JayVee

    JayVee Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the amazon link. It might work but depends on the size of the elbow. I've already got an L shaped torx screw driver but the 'elbowed part' measures 25mm, or 6mm too much. Removing the rack could turn out to be tricky as well. There are lighting wires running under it, and you wouldn't want to fray them. Rewiring the lighting would drive me nuts.

    I'm convinced that the simplest solution is to get the proper tools and keep the operation as simple as possible. I certainly won't be touching the calipers again, because I've realized how difficult it is to align them properly with the rotor. And for anyone who has this bike (or a similar one with a quick release), I have a tip for when your bike is brand new and factory set. When you take off the wheel for the very first time, release the quick lock lever and hold it in position. Then unscrew the plastic nut on the other side of the wheel and count the number of rotations you make (note it down somewhere). When you put back the wheel, screw the nut back with the exact same number of rotations (note the initial position too). This will allow you to remove the wheel and put it back with the rotor exactly centered between the pads. If you remove the wheel and 'leave torque to chance', you will probably get disk rub. The amount of torque used to fasten the wheel and the position of the calipers are both critical to avoiding disk rub. But the calipers are difficult to reposition.

    It's a pity we can't make a wiki with all these little tips. Once you know how stuff works, maintenance is so much easier...
  13. Svein Tore

    Svein Tore New Member

    Read in the reviews-section that with a bit it was an inch, so still 6mm more than you have available to work with. Some could probably be cut from the bit, but 6mm is stretching it :)
  14. JayVee

    JayVee Well-Known Member

    You're perfectly right. Because I just bought the exact same one. Gonna have a friend file it down. He has tools for that. This will be worth it in the long run. :)

    Perhaps merely unscrewing the rack on the caliper side would help the bit to slide in better, but it will need some filing. I think I might need more than 6mm.

    Next time maybe I'll buy a mountain bike. :D

    BTW I was intrigued by your pad heating problems. Is it that hot where you live?
  15. Svein Tore

    Svein Tore New Member

    Not hot. But many hills. And not various terrain. You go either up or down. So the downhills are very long and my weight is a lot more than the bike is built for.
    JayVee likes this.
  16. Mark K

    Mark K New Member

    Thanks for starting this thread Hugh. I own a 2016 Sduro Fullnine RC. I purchased it from Motostrano in Redwood City last December when he was running a killer deal. I'm 5-8, my inseam is 30" and the size I have is a 45cm which is considered a 'medium.' My GF owns a 2016 Haibike Trekking RC which she got from Pedego Avila Beach. She traded a film for her bike. We ride almost every single day and live in the SF Bay Area so there's loads of great roads/trails to ride. I like hilly fire roads and trails in addition to running errands locally. I've dongled my bike with an ASA 25.01 dongle. I've also installed a Thule Pack and Pedal rack onto my bike and fabricated water bottle bosses onto the rack. In addition I installed a Supernova M99 Pure and their E3 2 tail light. I love my bike who I named "Sofia" and it's one of the best purchases I've made in a long while.

    Attached Files:

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  17. Mark K

    Mark K New Member

  18. Svein Tore

    Svein Tore New Member

    Nice blog. Glad you found your way in here. Would like to see a writeup on the Thule Pack too :)
    SF is nice. Been there once, for two days, way too short of a stay :( (we drove to Miami)
  19. JayVee

    JayVee Well-Known Member

    @Mark K - I like the way you have added rack, fenders, kickstand to that mountain bike to make it more able to handle day to day errands and constraints. I wish more manufacturers would propose them optionally on mountain bikes. What kind of rack is that?
    Last edited: May 26, 2017
  20. Mark K

    Mark K New Member

    Thanks JayVee, the rack is a Thule Pack 'N Pedal Tour rack. I looked a lot to find a rack that works with a full suspension bike. I really don't like the type that hook to a seatpost so I avoided those. The fenders are by MudHugger and again I wanted fenders to keep the blasted mud out of my eyes when I ride in the winter. I love riding through the mud as I think it's because my mom kept me too neat as a child! Hahahaha. I had the dealer where I bought my bike sell me the kickstand. Prior to my ebike I rode a Specialized mountain bike, no kick stand, no rack, no nothing. But now I want amenities that I use daily. I can remove my locks, DIY water bottle bosses, but what I won't ever remove is the rack and the lights. I'm no longer a 'hard core' MTB rider, nor a closed course motorcycle racer. Been there, done that. Now I ride for pure enjoyment, be that on the street to run errands or on fire roads in the hills. So I've outfitted my bike to suit my lifestyle. My GF owns a Haibike Sduro Trekker and we ride almost every single day. It's just so much fun. We were just out on a 'pre breakfast' ride before going to work. (We're pro photographers)

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  21. Bicyclista

    Bicyclista Active Member

    I was gonna say, @Mark K, that the quality of your photography is high! As a fellow professional photographer, I wish I had traded a film for my Haibike Sduro FullSeven AllMtn Plus, the way your girlfriend did for her Trekking. I love my bike, although I finally decided to add Mr. Tuffy liners to my tires. On all other fronts, electrically and mechanically, my bike has performed perfectly. I upgraded the pedals, the grips, and the saddle. I cut the handlebars two inches from each side as they were too wide for me. I raised the stem. I added lights and a mirror. I wish I had a kickstand. What kickstand are you using?