BodyFloat / Specialized Turbo X - Seat Post Drilling for rear light wire

Discussion in 'Parts and Accessories' started by Dysan, Apr 23, 2016.

  1. Dysan

    Dysan New Member

    Hi everyone,

    I’d like to try and get some opinions or advice, if I may. I purchased a Bodyfloat for my Specialized Turbo X and am wondering how best to keep the rear light. As you may know the wire for the LED rear light exits a hole in the top of the original Specialized seat post and enters the back of the light on the rear of the saddle.

    Seat Pole Hole.jpg Seat Pole Hole Light 2.jpg

    As I very much want to retain the light the Bodyfloat will have to be altered to find a way to get the wire through as there are no exit points on the seat post as it stands and no real 'top' to drill down into, so I guess I'll have to drill a hole somewhere where the numbers appear on the post (see pic). Anyone have any opinion on how best to do this? My first thought is to drill a hole in the seat post and then cut and try and fish the wire through and then reattach it to the light in some way.

    BodyFloat.jpg BodyFloat 2.jpg

    I think (=sincerely hope) the strength integrity of the post will not be too affected. I assume any warranty will be scuppered, however. Has anyone pulled apart the LED housing to see of the wires are soldered in or just screwed? I'd rather not have to cut the wire unless I absolutely have to.

    Seat Pole Hole Light.jpg

    Any other ideas or comments gratefully received.


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  3. John Dombrowski

    John Dombrowski Active Member

    image.jpeg Don't mess with the wires in the seat at the light. When you take out your seat post the wires are connected by 2 little connectors at the bottom of the stock seat post. Just disconnect those and then the seat comes off the original seat post wires and all. Then just drill a 3/16 in. hole between that vertical slit on the front side of the body float and just feed the 2 connectors on the ends of the wires in the hole you drilled and down the body float post and then just plug the 2 connectors back in the other ends. Very simple. Like I said in my other post though, the guys at body float pre drilled my hole for me before they shipped it out to me.

    Last edited: Apr 24, 2016
  4. Dysan

    Dysan New Member

    Many thanks John. Much appreciated!
  5. Dysan

    Dysan New Member

    Hi again John,

    Very wise move to get the hole drilled by the company. I don'y have that option in the UK and anyway I have already bought it (I had to source it through Switzerland).

    Looks like a right swine to try and get a drill bit and hole in the top where they drilled yours.

    I think I may have to go through the front of the pole where the numbers are - I reckon between the 3 and 4 as I will be able to see numbers when installed all the way to 12 I reckon.

    Mine is aluminium alloy so I can't see a 3/16 hole really affecting the stability of the seat post. At least I really hope not!!
  6. John Dombrowski

    John Dombrowski Active Member

    It's easy to drilled where they did. Actually their hole was a little small so I grabbed my drill and a 3/16th bit and drilled it out a little bigger to get both connectors though. Was not hard at all. I got the carbon post but the aluminum should be easy to drill.
  7. Dysan

    Dysan New Member

    Okey-dokey. I'll take another look. It's the angle that may be an issue! Thanks.
  8. John Dombrowski

    John Dombrowski Active Member

    Just take a little punch tool or a nail and punch a little indent in there first for the drillbit to rest in to start the hole.
  9. Senseiwai

    Senseiwai Member

    I talked to my local Specialized dealer and he said to me you can open little cover underneath the bottom bracket where all wires and connector is located. You can rewire the LED backlight and relocate to somewhere else on the frame their is already a hole on the cover for that. On base model Turbo backlight is on the fender/rack kit the LED cable is routed through service cover then into fender.
  10. James Kohls

    James Kohls Active Member

    Purchase a BodyFloat this week. Paid $20 to have a custom hole drilled by the manufacturer for the seatpost light. If you're going to pay $250 for a seat post, $20 to have the hole drilled right is worth it. Here are some images during my install. Hope it helps give others confidence to do it themselves.

    IMG_2016.jpg IMG_2017.jpg IMG_2019.jpg IMG_2020.jpg IMG_2024.jpg IMG_2027.jpg IMG_2029.jpg IMG_2031.jpg IMG_2034.jpg IMG_2035.jpg IMG_2039.jpg IMG_2040.jpg IMG_2043.jpg IMG_2046.jpg IMG_2047.jpg IMG_2050.jpg IMG_2051.jpg IMG_2055.jpg IMG_2057.jpg

    This is on a 2015 Turbo-X. The big trick was getting the wires down through the hole. For me, the red wire had to go in first, then the blue wire. Took a lot of fidgeting, but it did fit.

    My Cirrus Cycles Order # was 2055. Feel free to reference it when ordering and say you want the exact same thing, if that helps.
    sakabe, Ann M. and Marceltt like this.
  11. John Dombrowski

    John Dombrowski Active Member

    But just tell them you have a turbo with the seat light and ask them to drill it first for you before they ship it. I asked and they did it for free. I even asked for a couple extra springs so I can mix and match and I got those too for nothing. Just ask and you shall receive.
    James Kohls likes this.
  12. James Kohls

    James Kohls Active Member

    Entered the request on their web form. No biggie. Still worth it.
  13. Marceltt

    Marceltt Active Member

    What is the brand of the seat with the lights built in it. Thanks
  14. James Kohls

    James Kohls Active Member

    The saddle is a Specialized Body Geometry Turbo, but the light is a Supernova E3 tail light. Custom made for the Turbos. I doubt they sell it separately. But you can buy the tail light if you can find a way to mount it.
    Marceltt likes this.
  15. sakabe

    sakabe New Member

    Just got the BodyFloat for my ‘15 Turbo X! Having a helluva time pulling the wire connectors apart. Tried pulling and wiggling to the point where it felt like the wire might snap, so I stopped before I made it worse. Did the connectors just pull apart easily for you, or did you have to do something special to get them separated?
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2017
    James Kohls likes this.
  16. sakabe

    sakabe New Member

    Gripping each side of connector with pliers and pulling apart worked for me. Using my hands to pull apart got me nowhere. Key was to clamp the plier on the flat part of the connector, especially on the female end, so that you don’t crimp the connector opening. The heat shrink wrap around the connectors now show marks from where the pliers clamped down but it’s just cosmetic and shouldn’t impact the wires. The rest of installation was straight forward, though I probably put on too much anti-seize compound. Can’t wait to take it out for a spin tomorrow to test it out!
    James Kohls likes this.
  17. James Kohls

    James Kohls Active Member

    Yeah, the wires were pretty tough to decouple. Guessing they corrode making them sticky. Glad you got it to work. Hope you enjoy your new seat post :)
    sakabe likes this.