CCX intermittent power

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jom

Member
Ther were many problems along the way that may be would be less with a top tier brand. But I felt I got enough value out of it to come back with a CCX.

The zip tie is just a suggestion in place of Velcro. I kept it near the top where the connection is. Gave it enough slack so I could slide it off, but tight enough to stay put. My thought is that a zip tie might provide more constant tension like a rubber band vs a Velcro strap. At the time it was also what I had handy.
Wow! You really took all the juice out of the old Cross Current!
The velcro straps I am using are as good as a zip tie in the sense that they are not elastic at all. I use two, 2" wide, 24" long. (link)
 

youth

Active Member
Welp I've run into this problem now. Clear signs of arcing on the contacts. And since my headlight is activated immediately whenever the controller gets power it's easy to tell that the problem is mechanical since tapping at the battery can get to turn on temporarily. Will post some pics later.
 

jom

Member
Welp I've run into this problem now. Clear signs of arcing on the contacts. And since my headlight is activated immediately whenever the controller gets power it's easy to tell that the problem is mechanical since tapping at the battery can get to turn on temporarily. Will post some pics later.
@youth , I am going to repeat my suggestions. Should the contacts be spoiled beyond "reasonable" (that is, damage extends more than the very edge of the female contact in the battery) then ask Juiced support to help. If the battery contacts are still "reasonably" ok despite the arching, then:
1. remove the o'ring behind the male connector -the connector in the frame. Tighten the silver nut without overtightening. For this step you need to disassemble the receiver-lock; I explained somewhere above in this thread, which o'ring it is and how to disassemble. This step will make the male pin contacts engage about 1 mm more into the battery female contacts.
2. use one, or better two, velcro straps 2" wide x 24" long, non-stretch type to keep the battery against the right side.
3. power up, turn display on, hit hard the battery on the right side with your hand. Display (and also the light, in your bike) should not loose power.
Hope this helps. It worked for me.
 

youth

Active Member
@youth , I am going to repeat my suggestions. Should the contacts be spoiled beyond "reasonable" (that is, damage extends more than the very edge of the female contact in the battery) then ask Juiced support to help. If the battery contacts are still "reasonably" ok despite the arching, then:
Yea I think this is still usable with your first suggestion. Looking at the wear it's appears that only the tip touches which seems really odd. It's got me thinking if the male pins got pushed in?

CCX_bad_batt_connection.png

Taking out in the inner o-ring wasn't quite the fix for me. I notice that I do have excessive play now & some of that is due to the wearing of where the bolt locks into the battery. For now I've put a couple pieces of tape in there to make the hole smaller so it pulls the battery in more. Hopefully it holds up.
CCX_bad_batt_connection_tempfix.png
 
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KLee

Active Member
Yea I think this is still usable with your first suggestion. Looking at the wear it's appears that only the tip touches which seems really odd. It's got me thinking if the male pins got pushed in?

View attachment 31821

Taking out in the inner o-ring wasn't quite the fix for me. I notice that I do have excessive play now & some of that is due to the wearing of where the bolt locks into the battery. For now I've put a couple pieces of tape in there to make the hole smaller so it pulls the battery in more. Hopefully it holds up.
View attachment 31824
The area of where the bolt locks the battery pack in place should be reinforced because mine is starting to show some wear. How often do you remove your battery pack?
 

jinim

Member
Yea I think this is still usable with your first suggestion. Looking at the wear it's appears that only the tip touches which seems really odd. It's got me thinking if the male pins got pushed in?

View attachment 31821

Taking out in the inner o-ring wasn't quite the fix for me. I notice that I do have excessive play now & some of that is due to the wearing of where the bolt locks into the battery. For now I've put a couple pieces of tape in there to make the hole smaller so it pulls the battery in more. Hopefully it holds up.
View attachment 31824
Your contacts seem to look ok. Mine had plastic melted onto the pins. The only thing I’ve done is use a 24” Velcro strap near the top of the battery that I ordered off Amazon. IMO, I think that’s a better option than a zip tie since I think there’s less play/stretch and it keeps the battery tight to the frame. It also allows you to easily take off the battery still, even though I leave it on at all times. Time will tell if this holds up, but I’ve had zero problems since Jul/Aug with this solution.

$8 on Amazon.
CandyHome 20pcs Reusable Fastening Cable Straps and Cable Ties Set, Adjustable Multipurpose Hook and Loop Securing Straps for Cord Management https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVCGC37/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tEGPCb0H459QS
 

jom

Member
Yea I think this is still usable with your first suggestion. Looking at the wear it's appears that only the tip touches which seems really odd. It's got me thinking if the male pins got pushed in?

View attachment 31821

Taking out in the inner o-ring wasn't quite the fix for me. I notice that I do have excessive play now & some of that is due to the wearing of where the bolt locks into the battery. For now I've put a couple pieces of tape in there to make the hole smaller so it pulls the battery in more. Hopefully it holds up.
View attachment 31824
If the battery has too much play, just removing the back o'ring of the male connector will not solve the problem, given that the o'ring removal adds about 1 mm of pin engagement, at best.

I measured the distance from the edge of the male connector and the tip of the pins, for both the positive and negative pins for the Juiced connector. The positive pin is shorter than the negative pin, what may us believe that the pins have been pushed in. Here are the distances I measured:

"+" pin = 0.108", "-" pin = 0.075"

Some other members of this forum have also mentioned that one of the pins in their connectors was shorter. I consulted the Juiced support group regarding this, and they answered that the "+" pin is shorter by design.

So far it seems there is consensus that securing the battery against the frame, before the connectors have been damaged, works for all (?) or most of the CCX bikes.
 
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BrianMura

Active Member
Straps seem to be vital. I like the @jom thick straps over the CandyHome set. I got both sets... :D

When I got my new battery, I hurt myself trying to get it in, because it was so tight! Later, I took apart the assembly and tightened the loose lock ring nut. After that, I was able to slip the battery in easily which worried me. I figured this means this plastic assembly can really warp and change to create play. Straps reduce that play and effect of the plastic changing shape. Plastic will also change due to sun, screw tightness, etc.

I am scared to check my battery, but I will do so since I'm nearing 500 miles. :cool:
 
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KLee

Active Member
Straps seem to be vital. I like the @jom thick straps over the CandyHome set. I got both sets... :D

When I got my new battery, I hurt myself trying to get it in, because it was so tight! Later, I took apart the assembly and tightened the loose lock ring nut. After that, I was able to slip the battery in easily which worried me. I figured this means this plastic assembly can really warp and change to create play. Straps reduce that play and effect of the plastic changing shape. Plastic will also change due to sun, screw tightness, etc.

I am scared to check my battery, but I will do so since I'm nearing 500 miles. :cool:
I found this out recently too. When the bike was delivered in December last year until about 1 month ago I had to use tremendous force to seat the battery. The past month it slid in so easily. I'm hoping those battery issues you experienced do not happen to me. :confused:
 

Dunbar

Well-Known Member
Interesting to read this. I had the same sort of issue with the 17.4ah battery on my Cross Current cutting out. I could also hear arcing if I wiggled the battery. I’ve been riding around with my smaller 10.4ah battery for the past few months for this reason. I spent a couple hours trying to get the 17.4ah battery working today (re-shimming with velcro) to no avail. I hear arcing as soon as I power on the controller. I miss the extra range of the bigger battery.
 

Patdown45

New Member
I am looking for those female connectors as well as I am looking to build my own 52 volt 20 AH battery to plug into my M2S R750 fat bike which is using the same battery as the juiced bike. I have not been able to source them yet
 

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Patdown45

New Member
I have over 2000 miles on my m2s r750 and comuting over 48 miles per day, I pull my battery to charge 2 times per day and have had no problems to date. Just looking for more power to go faster, currently averaging about 23 - 24mph to get to work in about an hour. I believe if I jump up to a 52 volt battery 20 ah i should be able to average 28 to 30 mph save a little more time. Just need to also increase the chairing from 36 teeth to at least a 42
 

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bikerjohn

Well-Known Member
I have over 2000 miles on my m2s r750 and comuting over 48 miles per day, I pull my battery to charge 2 times per day and have had no problems to date. Just looking for more power to go faster, currently averaging about 23 - 24mph to get to work in about an hour. I believe if I jump up to a 52 volt battery 20 ah i should be able to average 28 to 30 mph save a little more time. Just need to also increase the chairing from 36 teeth to at least a 42
Pat, that's a nice looking commuter set-up!
I feel compelled to express my perspective FWIW: 28-30 mph, or even your current avg. speed seem like an unreasonable expectation for a 20 to 25 mile commute.
As a 245 pound cyclist, that speed average over any significant distance is an impossible goal. And based on my knowledge of reality, your commute speed is unrealistic for any individual of average athleticism.

Some things you should consider beyond battery capacity and chain-ring size, are your bike's suspension system, overall weight, athletic ability, wind resistance, and windchill at speeds over 20-25 mph.
 

Patdown45

New Member
Pat, that's a nice looking commuter set-up!
I feel compelled to express my perspective FWIW: 28-30 mph, or even your current avg. speed seem like an unreasonable expectation for a 20 to 25 mile commute.
As a 245 pound cyclist, that speed average over any significant distance is an impossible goal. And based on my knowledge of reality, your commute speed is unrealistic for any individual of average athleticism.

Some things you should consider beyond battery capacity and chain-ring size, are your bike's suspension system, overall weight, athletic ability, wind resistance, and windchill at speeds over 20-25 mph.
You are very correct about the wind chill! I have 3 layers that I wear when it is in the 20 degree range, as a 220 lb rider and usually carrying another 10 or 15 lbs of spare repair tube,pump,tools and my lunch. I don't expect to gain alot until I drop some weight. Little things do add up. I added 5 more psi tire pressure and deactivated the front shocks
 

youth

Active Member
I just shipped my battery out to Juiced because according to them the issue is with the female connector. Wish there was an advance exchange option, but at least I still have my original CC which has a bad rear wheel but is now working with the CCX wheel.
 

Patdown45

New Member
Nice job fixing their design flaw! Do you know where I can find a female connector like that is on the battery, as I want to build my own 52 volt battery. I have a M2S R750 bike which uses the same style connectors
 

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