Ebike specific Chain

rmasa

Member
It will soon be time to replace the chain, and I thought it would be wise (since I have a bit of time) to mail order a chain and save 40% of the cost which I could spend in purchasing the a better/best chain possible.

Question: is the electric bike specific chain worth the price?


It seems that when the "e" is added to the chain, it doubles the price, but haven't really found what the difference from the "e" chain and their regular chain without the "e" is.

Obviously it is for an electric bike, so weight really is not an issue. Looking for durability.


Shimano 10 speed drive
 

Jeff Backes

Active Member
I'm pretty sure that these chains will give you whiter teeth and fresher breath.

In all seriousness I'd stick with a Shimano 10 speed chain, the amount of force exerted on the chain is the same whether from a pedal or a motor.

jeff
 

rmasa

Member
Thanks for the input
Always had a shimano chain (not much selection here), just thought I would try the KMC since it has been popping up everywhere online.
Did some research on the KMC, and it had great reviews.
Was thinking that I would not have to commute with a chain tool, since the KMC has the missing link thing.
 

SCbiker

Active Member
I have no real experience with it ... Only what I read ... Never seen same. Let us know if you get to take a look and your thoughts on it.

Rgds. B.
 

rmasa

Member
Shift lever combo 48.00
chain 28.00
rear derailluer 135.00
and a bit of shipping
Just need to find a new bike project now
 

Rick Imby

New Member
This gearing shows how out of touch the Bosch is. Bosch uses a 14, 16, 18 front gear. Match that with an 11 tooth rear cog and most people cannot ride this over 8-10 miles per hour. I want to be able to comfortably pedal at 14-20 miles per hour with a 60-90 cadence. Most comfort/city bike riders ride with around a 60 cadence.

I want to ride with pedal assist, not an electric motorcycle.

This is so basic and yet they still don't get it.

SRAM on the other hand gets it sorta. Single gear shifts, no doubles, super strong chain, Wide ratio cassette. But $400 for the cassette? Really--

Two thumbs up.
 

Jeff Backes

Active Member
Rick Imby,

I don't understand your concern about top end of a Bosch system. I have a few of them and they can all hit 20mph without breaking a sweat. The two street bikes are limited to 29mph which I am able to achieve on flat paved streets. Now, running without any power is another story ;)

My favorite part about the Bosch system is that when you shift either up or down, it somehow senses that and backs-off just the right amount.

Time will tell how reliable it is but there sure are a lot of e-bike running the Bosch mid-drive.

jeff
 

Rick Imby

New Member
My problem is the gearing---Can you keep up with the pedals at 20 or 24 mph? I haven't pulled up a chart and figured it out but with a 27.5 wheel and 11 tooth on the back and 14 up front I would bet you are about 120 cadence. Most casual riders are much more comfortable at a 60 cadence.

I know the quality of the Bosch unit is great.

I understand about riding any bike at 25 mph and especially an ebike without assistance.
 

Jeff Backes

Active Member
Rick,

I looked at yesterday's ride. Seems like no problem with cadence. 26.55 MPH at 79 RPM. I have 700Cx38 tires on my XM700+.


jeff
 
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Scooteretti

Active Member
Rmasa,

If looking to replace your chain, the benefits of going with an ebike specific chain really makes a difference if you ride with a mid drive system. If you ride with a Bosch mid drive, there will be much higher torque being applied to the chain vs a rear hub system.

If you ride with a rear hub system then a basic chain will be OK. With that being said the less expensive parts typically are made from materials that will wear quicker and will typically get a shorter lifecycle then a higher quality chain. Now keep in mind that a cheaper cassette / freewheel will also be a wear point. So ideally you want to match similar qualities there to get fairly close wear patterns. No point getting a high quality cassette and throwing on the cheapest chain. With a high quality chain/cassette setup riders will typically experience longer life, smoother shifting and a generally nicer ride. Keep in mind that the whole drive train needs to be properly maintained and lubricated. A bent, dirty worn out derailleur wont make a high quality chain / cassette feel better... ;-)

Now, here is where I feel and know that an ebike specific chain makes a difference. If you use a basic chain like an HG40 for example on a Bosch mid drive then you're probably going to experience a chain snap at one point. This is due to the high torque being applied to the chain from the drive unit. If you have a great bike with a quality cassette for example and put on a basic chain like the Shimano HG40 you're probably going to spend more $$$ in the long run then dishing out the extra cost of buying a better quality chain. The accelerated wear will certainly eat away at the cassette and front chain ring much quicker assuming it doesn't snap before that. If you have a shop do your service work for you, you'll probably spend more in the long run then biting the bullet and getting yourself a decent chain / cassette set up. We have clients who use a good quality Shimano / SRAM cassette paired with a CONNEX / KMC ebike chain and also a CONNEX chainring and have increased their life cycle already to the point where we have not been able to determine by how much as the setup has not been due for replacement yet. I am sure they will be ahead when they calculate in the labor savings and I know they are ahead if they calculate their time for not having to bring the bike to the shop for service.

If you ride offroad and ride hard with a mid drive like Bosch, you need the best (chain, cassette, chain ring etc....) that you can afford. Trying to save a couple of $$ on a mountain bike when going offroad will just cost you more and ruin your day eventually. When you shift frequently under load this is really where a high quality chain like the CONNEX or KMC E series combined with an upgraded chain ring makes a difference.

In summary a rear hub is more forgiving than a mid drive so you can use pretty much anything. Ride more aggressively or want the convenience of getting longer life, upgrade to the higher end ebike specific components.

hope this helps,


Will
shop.scooteretti.com
 

rmasa

Member
Thanks Will
I had already assumed that the ebike specific chain would be better (stronger/last longer).
What I was looking for is how much better?
Ebike specific chain cost me about $60
My go to chain about $20
I clean and re-lube my drive system every 150km
I replace my chain every 1500-2000 km about every 3 months or up to 4 months, so in a year;
4 ebike chains = $240
4 x10 = $80
Difference of $160 which is more than a new cassette, derail, & chainring.
Yes I don't run the top end drive system (Shimano deore XT)
Since this is my commuter I can't afford to have a chain snap, but still want to keep maintenance cost low enough so I can justify buying another bike and have 2 ebikes to ride.
 

Scooteretti

Active Member
rmasa,

Can you let me know what type of electric bike you have?

Based on you comments that your chain lasts 1500 km's or so is actually quite low. A decent quality chain like the the KMC E bike chain should get you anywhere from 3500-5000 km's. The range is basically due to how you shift what terrain you are riding on etc.... So based on your comments that you do frequent maintenance already, you should easily double that mileage between swap outs.

all the best,


Will
 

rmasa

Member
16 iZip e3 Peak
The chains would probably last a bit longer, I have no idea. But since it is a commuter, and I cannot risk the chance of breaking a chain I usually change the chain at around the 3 month mark.
 

Scooteretti

Active Member
rmasa,

As you have a mid drive system I really think you can extend the chain replacement intervals to the 3000 +km's by sticking with something like the original KMC X10e chain and if you ride in the winter and expose the chain the winter mess (salt, slush etc....) swap over to a cheaper chain as the salt will reduce the life of any chain (and yes other parts as well).

We have mid drive units here that come in all the time and most will always have 3-5k on them before replacement is due. So I think there is an opportunity for you to save a few $$$
 

Ravi Kempaiah

Well-Known Member
It will soon be time to replace the chain, and I thought it would be wise (since I have a bit of time) to mail order a chain and save 40% of the cost which I could spend in purchasing the a better/best chain possible.

Question: is the electric bike specific chain worth the price?


It seems that when the "e" is added to the chain, it doubles the price, but haven't really found what the difference from the "e" chain and their regular chain without the "e" is.

Obviously it is for an electric bike, so weight really is not an issue. Looking for durability.

Shimano 10 speed drive
I have KMC X10e EPT EcoProteq and it has worked well.
If you're using a mid-drive, regular maintenance really helps. The degreaser and the lubricant you use, matters a lot.

E-bike specific chain from KMC.jpg