First Real trial of my New Elegant - Comments & Questions

#1
Hi Everyone,

I'm new here, but have been reading for a while. I got an Elegant at the end of last month, but only just got to do a real ride with it (Life gets in the way too much).
- Just a hair under 30 km, paved trail but hilly, mostly on PAS 2. 832m total elevation gains, so not something I would be able to do right now on a regular bike.​

I only got one comment about having an ebike - At the end of the trail, at the top of a long climb someone said: "I wish I had a bike like that during the last climb."



First an FYI - The Elegant's fork has been upgraded for 2018, beyond what is described on the website.

It's my understanding that is also the reason behind the $50 increase in price a month or two back.​
The new fork can be locked out. - I forgot to get the brand & Model number off it, sorry. (I'll update when I get a chance to look)​



Everything worked great and I'm quite happy with my purchase, but have a couple of questions for the more experienced users:
I spent most of my ride with the display set to the Motor Power setting - I wanted to see how much assistance I was getting.​

1) The Elegant has a 500W Rated Motor, but the Controller current limit was defaulted to 15A. This seems too high.

When riding, the Power display would often go above 500W - I know the 500W is continuous, but with a 15A current max, isn't the controller allowing (48V*15A =) 720W continuous?​
Should I be lowering this setting to preserve the motors lifespan? Perhaps to 10 or 11A?​


2) I noticed when riding that if a hill was getting a little tough and I wanted to downshift, the motor would kick in with additional power to keep my speed about the same. Therefore, I was using more power when trying to go slower. (I didn't touch the PAS level)

I was expecting that I would have kept approximately the same power out from the motor and easier pedaling, but I would be moving slower.​

I'm working on the theory that because it was easier to pedal in the lower gear, I was probably increasing my cadence, therefore the motor was outputting more.​
Is this typical? Do I need to downshift AND lower the PAS if I want to save the battery??​


3) How long after getting a new bike should you wait until re-tuning everything?

I've already noticed the brake cables stretching a bit and the mid-gears are a little noisy. (not perfect in the derailer?)​
Nothing needs attention right away - I've adjusted the brake cables at the handlebars to take up some slack, and the noisy gears are only slightly rubbing. I'm more interested in knowing how long it typically takes for everything to settle in and no longer be "new".​


I think there was something else, but I can't think of it at the moment.... I may add to this post later if it occurs to me.

Thanks everyone!
 

jazz

Well-Known Member
#2
I wouldn't worry about the motor. Those Bafang rear hubs are tough and have no issues operating at or over their rated power ratings. I don't think you need to adjust the controller amps. Best to have full power available if you need it as not to stress the system. Adjustments will need to happen after an initial break in period which can be anywhere from 100 miles to 1000 miles depending on bike. I usually check mine often before long rides chain, brakes, brake pads, bearings, spokes etc. Some shops offer 30, 60 and 90 day adjustments.