Help Critique My Stealth e-bike Parts and Sellers Choices

harryS

Well-Known Member
What was wrong with the original choice, 500W geared Bafang from Greenergia for $381 CDN? That was your second link.

I have a Bafang SWXH, which is 250W and will do 20 mph in a 700cc wheel. Also the BMSBattery Q100H, which is a 12X geared motor similar in size to the 310. The latter are used on our 20" ebikes, which don't need to go much faster than 18 mph, and they won't. Unless you want stealth as a tradeoff, I'd suggest the larger motor.
 
What was wrong with the original choice, 500W geared Bafang from Greenergia for $381 CDN? That was your second link.

I have a Bafang SWXH, which is 250W and will do 20 mph in a 700cc wheel. Also the BMSBattery Q100H, which is a 12X geared motor similar in size to the 310. The latter are used on our 20" ebikes, which don't need to go much faster than 18 mph, and they won't. Unless you want stealth as a tradeoff, I'd suggest the larger motor.
Hi Harry,
The Greenergia is CDN $381 +$100 shipping, but I could get it a bit cheaper on eBay from same seller. The reason I was looking around some more now is that the G020 is actually rated 250W nominal, and I would have preferred to have a bigger motor, but it's not clear to me now that there are any 500W nominal Bafang motors for general sale. The Eunerau motor is the G04 and it's also 250 nominal called 500W. Bluenergy is also 250W listed as 500W nominal.

I really only want 20mph limited, and often 15 mph speed would be preferred speed. I do want quick acceleration to keep up with the traffic from stoplight to stoplight on city streets. I would pedal, but I want strong motor assist. Maybe these overvolted 250W motors would be good enough, but I did get halted when I realized they are saying one thing on the ads but another in the spec sheets. So, I was looking around some more after that realization, to see if there were 500W motors rated as 500W motors. It seems that fat bikes get the bigger motor and the rest are smaller.

So I'm hesitating due to lack of knowledge. Maybe 250 would be enough acceleration and enough to climb hills. I'm 150 lb. so it might be enough. I'd like a bigger motor to make sure, maybe to make the motor last longer, but that's really all suppositions.
 
What was wrong with the original choice, 500W geared Bafang from Greenergia for $381 CDN? That was your second link.

I have a Bafang SWXH, which is 250W and will do 20 mph in a 700cc wheel. Also the BMSBattery Q100H, which is a 12X geared motor similar in size to the 310. The latter are used on our 20" ebikes, which don't need to go much faster than 18 mph, and they won't. Unless you want stealth as a tradeoff, I'd suggest the larger motor.
I looked at BMS and got confused again but I'm going to take some time to read through everything. Maybe the important thing for me is that your 250W does 20mph. It's on 36V?

I also see that Eunerau has what might be nominal 500W ...might be old stock... the 8Fun.
https://eunorau-ebike.com/products/48v-500w-8fun-bafang-bpm-brushless-geared-hub-motor-for-front-wheel
But their other 500W offering is yet another 250W nominal, it appears. 8FUN-CST-48TypeRM G04
 
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indianajo

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry to see you're still shopping around as summer melts away.
Watts are all so theoretical, especially as the governments have gotten involved with all these rules. 18 months ago 1000 W was the standard DD power wheel on ebay/amazon, I have one labeled 48vly1000. It performed okay but was kind of a watt hour hog on the hills I run (46 hills I counted on the back half of my commute yesterday). DD could be just right for your city traffic runs between green lights. 1200 W is what my geared hub motor from ebikeling was rated at, and since it will run the battery indicator down to yellow with a nearly full charge up a big hill, I imagine it is taking all the 26 amps the controller is rated to deliver.
You're building a bike, it is not going to have a sticker saying class 1 or whatever. If you stay out of parks with signs prohibiting ebikes and don't hit anybody on a sidewalk, nobody is going to look for your sticker. I was up to 35 mph today unpowered down a hill, and nobody noticed. Tested the brakes at 25 mph too - 20 feet stop and maybe less.
I will say using throttle only my thumb gets tired if I use power on any level stretches. PAS would be nice but not the 11 mph level zero one I bought. Fancier controllers can be bought later, with the crank magnet pickups, displays and all that. Having had a display with all the wrong numbers and a lot of big lies ( 0 mph down the hills if the power is off - I estimate about 30 mph) I don't respect cheap displays. Maybe the ones on $5000 bikes are cool - I'm not going to buy one of those to find out.
The days of jolly roger 1200 W hub motor kits may be over, but some of the major hub motor players are still around. But they have retreated to ali or direct sale from china, whereas 2 years ago they were on ebay & amazon. Two that have caught my eye repeatedly are leaf and golden pie. I'm nervous about sending my debit card # to reside on a foreign server, where who is in charge of no hacking enforement? But for a purchase like this you could load up one of those one time debit cards for sale at the grocery store, and let the perps hack the # of an empty card all they want after your purchase is complete. Another geared hub I keep looking at is the QT128, but there are so many unanswered questions about that product.
If you can stand DD, (and your application if flat & high speed) then the generic (really ly) 1000w DD wheels are still out there. The bonus if you buy the hub in the wheel, it comes equipped for a disk, you don't have to buy a separate wheel to have disk brakes. Buying a caliper and disk (ebikeling sold me some $20 ea) puts you 2/3 the way there to having disk brakes without spending $400 on some discount store junk. You do have to wrap the frame strut with a tether, and bolt the caliper to that. About 3 hours fiddling in my back yard, maybe another hour to tweak whatever you did wrong. Same process are making your own torque arms - I haven't bought one yet and both kits were torque arm supported to the struts. In fact the back DD motor the motor nuts came loose and the torque arms held the motor in place with some strange clunks until I got home. Torque arms take longer than disk brakes, you have to file out that strange shaped hole for the axle after drilling to 8 mm holes. Use elastic stop nuts or double nuts countertightened, you don't want either torque arm or caliper mount coming loose. I find 10-32 stainless screws to be adequate, 5 mm is probably also fine if not made in *****. (I buy quality fasteners from mcmaster & grainger, not the ebay ****).
So quit obsessing with european rule compatible 250 w bagang or whatever. You're not in Europe putting up with VOPO's trained in the communist era. Your mounties are out catching murderers & rapists, just stay away from the park police who might be nit picky about your stealth bike kit. Rich suburbs with private rent-a-cops are another place I stay away from. You're not even supposed to BE there, they'll find something to charge you with. Today when the county deputy car was monitoring the zoo that is quitting time at the red light next to Amazon fulfillment warehouse, I was all politeness and careful. Where I did my 35 mph stunts was out in the country where nobody was looking. 69 years and no speeding tickets? Watch for the man & don't get caught. Don't worry about the 20 mph limit canada has on e-bikes, just don't run any speed traps above that.
 
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I'm sorry to see you're still shopping around as summer melts away.
Yeah, that's just sad. At least I'm building up my pedaling power again. :) And learning more. I hate buying the wrong item. I could easily have bought a wrong item a couple of times already. but things are shaping up.

I will say using throttle only my thumb gets tired if I use power on any level stretches. PAS would be nice but not the 11 mph level zero one I bought. Fancier controllers can be bought later, with the crank magnet pickups, displays and all that. Having had a display with all the wrong numbers and a lot of big lies ( 0 mph down the hills if the power is off - I estimate about 30 mph) I don't respect cheap displays. Maybe the ones on $5000 bikes are cool - I'm not going to buy one of those to find out.
There's something I want to pay more attention to. I anticipate throttle use vs arthritis presenting a problem and I want to have cruise control ability as well. For a display choice, less is more if it can do cruise control. I don't need a large or colored screen.
I'll need to find out which display or button will do cruise control.

The days of jolly roger 1200 W hub motor kits may be over, but some of the major hub motor players are still around. But they have retreated to ali or direct sale from china, whereas 2 years ago they were on ebay & amazon. Two that have caught my eye repeatedly are leaf and golden pie. I'm nervous about sending my debit card # to reside on a foreign server, where who is in charge of no hacking enforement? But for a purchase like this you could load up one of those one time debit cards for sale at the grocery store, and let the perps hack the # of an empty card all they want after your purchase is complete. Another geared hub I keep looking at is the QT128, but there are so many unanswered questions about that product.
If you can stand DD, (and your application if flat & high speed) then the generic (really ly) 1000w DD wheels are still out there. The bonus if you buy the hub in the wheel, it comes equipped for a disk, you don't have to buy a separate wheel to have disk brakes. Buying a caliper and disk (ebikeling sold me some $20 ea) puts you 2/3 the way there to having disk brakes without spending $400 on some discount store junk. You do have to wrap the frame strut with a tether, and bolt the caliper to that. About 3 hours fiddling in my back yard, maybe another hour to tweak whatever you did wrong. Same process are making your own torque arms - I haven't bought one yet and both kits were torque arm supported to the struts. In fact the back DD motor the motor nuts came loose and the torque arms held the motor in place with some strange clunks until I got home. Torque arms take longer than disk brakes, you have to file out that strange shaped hole for the axle after drilling to 8 mm holes. Use elastic stop nuts or double nuts countertightened, you don't want either torque arm or caliper mount coming loose. I find 10-32 stainless screws to be adequate, 5 mm is probably also fine if not made in *****. (I buy quality fasteners from mcmaster & grainger, not the ebay ****).
So quit obsessing with european rule compatible 250 w bagang or whatever. You're not in Europe putting up with VOPO's trained in the communist era. Your mounties are out catching murderers & rapists, just stay away from the park police who might be nit picky about your stealth bike kit. Rich suburbs with private rent-a-cops are another place I stay away from. You're not even supposed to BE there, they'll find something to charge you with. Today when the county deputy car was monitoring the zoo that is quitting time at the red light next to Amazon fulfillment warehouse, I was all politeness and careful. Where I did my 35 mph stunts was out in the country where nobody was looking. 69 years and no speeding tickets? Watch for the man & don't get caught. Don't worry about the 20 mph limit canada has on e-bikes, just don't run any speed traps above that.
Good stuff, indianajo :) Thank you for the brakes technical info and general reminders.