Known Issues & Problems with Haibike Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

Sweetwater

Active Member
hey michael,
same issues with my urban plus 2017. btw, i don't even use the COBI system. cool for a week then whatever.
now, i have a prob with the chain skipping when in top gear. it could be the derailer is worn, but it seems that it
is an electrical or motor issue. have you experienced anything like this?? it skips, or bangs, every 20 seconds or so...
I had a similar issue that I attributed to the drive system.
A good professional tune-up with a new chain solved it easily.
 

33red

Member
Edit/note: After further investigation, it turns out that the difference between ECO and Standard described below is due to regional profiling, which is a common practice in the EU. Even if this explanation satisfies me, I still feel the drive could use a Tour mode.

I have a Trekking Sduro 6.0. The PW-45 drive that equips it is identical to the PW series drive sold in the US (except for the higher 28mph cutoff speed).

There is no Tour mode provided on the PW series, but yet the difference between ECO and Standard modes is pretty sizable. This makes it difficult to get the most out of the battery since ECO is not usable in many situations (traffic, wind, moderate hills, etc.). To extend your range you have to observe the power meter very carefully and constantly switch into ECO at every opportunity. But this has an impact on rider safety. Whilst touring, I've found that my attention is often more focused on battery saving techniques than on the surrounding traffic. All that would be required to fix this is for Haibike/Yamaha to add a Tour mode that offers an intermediate level of assistance in between ECO and Standard modes.
I have a PW 2017 and to avoid looking too much at the panel i did it in safe areas and kind of do the right things without looking at it now. For long range we can downshift when possible, avoid a low cadence and avoid pushing too much on the pedals. The bigger effort we put in the bigger effort it gives back. Try thinking you are on a tandem and your partner is not strong. To work as a team you do not want to push hard fighting the wind nor gravity. You accept to let the speed go down for a portion of your ride. If due to traffic around you you chose to accelerate well you have that option without first having to modify your assist level. The other day i was on flat at 22 km/h and a light uphill change that to 20 on same effort so i went 1 higher assit level and was back at 22 so doing some testing in safe areas we know without looking the results from different modes. Mine has 4 and i can pretty much anticipate my Ebike reaction to my actions. Just use pressure on pedals and cadence and get the results you are looking for and occasionnaly switch modes. There is no need to focus that much on modes in my opinion.
 

McRat

New Member
If you just received a boxed eBike (2018 Haibike Sduro Trekking 6.0, Yamaha) and it was delivered with 0% SOC on the battery, that is pushing the button has no response at all, what would you do? The 500 Wh battery took 3.5h to charge to 100%, and the battery functions, but long term storage of Li batteries at under 30% harms them internally, that is, reduces their capacity.

Haibike Tech says that's fine. Both my other eBikes arrived with ~40% from other mfrs. So did my EV cars. Never store Li at 0% or 100% (30-50% roughly depending on chem), and most battery folk know this very well. But how would you know how long it had been at 0%? Overnight is OK, a year would be bad.

Now if I bought an eBike at a bike shop, I would not chose one with a dead battery that was sitting there with 0 miles. But when it's boxed?

Also - Always check the key for the battery lock first thing. One of my bikes was sold with the wrong key. Which makes it a pain to charge at a hotel.
 

DjGooch

New Member
hey michael,
same issues with my urban plus 2017. btw, i don't even use the COBI system. cool for a week then whatever.
now, i have a prob with the chain skipping when in top gear. it could be the derailer is worn, but it seems that it
is an electrical or motor issue. have you experienced anything like this?? it skips, or bangs, every 20 seconds or so...

I had a problem last year with the chain making a clunking sound every once in a while. what the problem was that one of the chain links were bad. The bike shop removed the bad link and now is working fine.
 

Celtic Fan

New Member
I have very recently purchased a Haibike Sduro Cross 6.0. Taking the recommendation, the actual size chart, from Haibike, at 5’ 10.5” tall, Haibike state the 52cm frame for a height between 5.8 and 5.10, is the frame size for me. Having been riding the bike both on road and trail. I am finding the frame too large, too high for me. My vital parts compress upon the cross bar in the standing, straddled position. On the trail, (the seat at its lowest position, the ground is very quickly away from me, having no ability to plant my foot. Though, I must admit, I need to learn to ride on the high side the trail, ensuring there ground beneath me on the right side. Still, I am convinced this bike is too high for me. Unfortunately the bike shop I bought it from has not a smaller one in my size. Any comments here from Haibike owners?
 

Bicyclista

Active Member
I have very recently purchased a Haibike Sduro Cross 6.0. Taking the recommendation, the actual size chart, from Haibike, at 5’ 10.5” tall, Haibike state the 52cm frame for a height between 5.8 and 5.10, is the frame size for me. Having been riding the bike both on road and trail. I am finding the frame too large, too high for me. My vital parts compress upon the cross bar in the standing, straddled position. On the trail, (the seat at its lowest position, the ground is very quickly away from me, having no ability to plant my foot. Though, I must admit, I need to learn to ride on the high side the trail, ensuring there ground beneath me on the right side. Still, I am convinced this bike is too high for me. Unfortunately the bike shop I bought it from has not a smaller one in my size. Any comments here from Haibike owners?
Haibikes are known to run large. I bought the smallest size for a 2016 Haibike Sduro Allmtn Plus and it was, fortunately, the right size. If I were you I would try to return it and ask your bike shop to order a 48cm model. Haibike makes one even though your bike shop may not have one in stock. Riding a proper-size bike is fundamental.
 

Celtic Fan

New Member
Haibikes are known to run large. I bought the smallest size for a 2016 Haibike Sduro Allmtn Plus and it was, fortunately, the right size. If I were you I would try to return it and ask your bike shop to order a 48cm model. Haibike makes one even though your bike shop may not have one in stock. Riding a proper-size bike is fundamental.
I will give that a whirl, (as we would say here in Scotland). Another Haibiker tells me the same matter of fact, Haibike purposely state large, but do recommend , (apparently) to drop a size. As a purchaser, you therefore rely upon your own research, and or more so, the knowledge of the bike shop you are purchasing from. Sadly, I had neither.
 

bob armani

Well-Known Member
I am also getting use to my new Yamaha motor on my Haibike Sduro 10.0. Recently noticed when I am in a higher PAS level before starting to move forward, while pressing down on the pedal, I feel some vibrations coming from the motor. I can feel it less in a lower PAS level, however, it seems like it is being produced by the current or by pulsations from the battery. There is no vibration when the system is set to Off.
Is this normal operation for the Yamaha mid drive motor? Anyone?
 
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I am also getting use to my new Yamaha motor on my Haibike Sduro 10.0. Recently noticed when I am in a higher PAS level before starting to move forward, while pressing down on the pedal, I feel some vibrations coming from the motor. I can feel it less in a lower PAS level, however, it seems like it is being produced by the current or by pulsations from the battery. There is no vibration when the system is set to Off.
Is this normal operation for the Yamaha mid drive motor? Anyone?
Bob, I do the great majority of pedaling with my Full FatSix in the High power position, so I am well aware of that pulsating feel by the motor in the stopped position when I put pressure onto the pedals without actually spinning the crank. It's like we have a little bucking bronco under our saddle; just rarin' to go!

Normal ops, nothing to worry about and nothing dire to come. I always took it as being torque sensor-related for the Yamaha drive. I kinda like it. Working on 7400 miles on my Haibike and it's one smile per mile after another.
 

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bob armani

Well-Known Member
Bob, I do the great majority of pedaling with my Full FatSix in the High power position, so I am well aware of that pulsating feel by the motor in the stopped position when I put pressure onto the pedals without actually spinning the crank. It's like we have a little bucking bronco under our saddle; just rarin' to go!

Normal ops, nothing to worry about and nothing dire to come. I always took it as being torque sensor-related for the Yamaha drive. I kinda like it. Working on 7400 miles on my Haibike and it's one smile per mile after another.
Mike TowpathTraveler- Very well said Mike! Those powerful little bucks in that housing are waiting to kick some a** with all that power. Had some concern about it being I never felt that on our other rear hub drive Ebikes. The EXPD mode is wicked uphill. So much power with zero cadence is feelin like I am going to go into a wheelie. Love this motor on this bike with dual suspension and a dropper. You hit 20 mph on the fly in a few short seconds on gravel. Thinking of putting a delimiter on it to get it going to 25mph.
BTW-That is a sweet ride you have with the fat 4 inchers. I have the 2.8 inch and they really grab nice. I am use to the 700c X 1.5 inch. Cannot compare at all. Thanks for the heads up. Thought I was going to need some warranty work. Have a great riding season! Get -E -Up...o_O
 

JayVee

Well-Known Member
I am also getting use to my new Yamaha motor on my Haibike Sduro 10.0. Recently noticed when I am in a higher PAS level before starting to move forward, while pressing down on the pedal, I feel some vibrations coming from the motor. I can feel it less in a lower PAS level, however, it seems like it is being produced by the current or by pulsations from the battery. There is no vibration when the system is set to Off.
Is this normal operation for the Yamaha mid drive motor? Anyone?
It's normal. That's Zero Cadence.
 

MrBob

New Member
I've owned my Haibike MTN 5 for a little over a year. It's ridden almost exclusively off road and on some very rugged single track. The bike is a beast and just rams through any obstacles and has been generally problem-free but I do have a problem with how the motor is mounted.
After a few hundred miles of riding I noted that the motor was moving in the frame. I took the bike back to the shop where I bought it and asked that the motor mount bolts be re-torqued. It's a simple job I can do myself but I wanted a record of this issue.
Bolts re-torqued and I'm back on the trails for another few hundred miles before again feeling that the motor is loose. Again back to the shop, and this time I ask them to use blue Locktite on the three bolts. This is done and the tech offers to add shims to the motor mounts but would need to charge for that. The other work was done under warranty. I decide to wait and see if this latest repair fixes the problem.
So, for the second time the three bolts are re-torqued and blue Locktite is added to keep them torqued. But, now, I hear a creaking from the crank area when I pedal. Tightening the bolts made the creaking worse, so I loosened them to just past finger tight and the creaking has stopped but the bolts are not at their torque values.
The manager of the bike shop where I purchased my Haibike admits that they do not know the bike well, though they have tried to be helpful. I sent an email to Haibike with not much expectation of a reply.
Aside from this problem, and occasionally stumbling around as I try to dismount from that two story frame, it's a wonderful bike.
 

bob armani

Well-Known Member
I've owned my Haibike MTN 5 for a little over a year. It's ridden almost exclusively off road and on some very rugged single track. The bike is a beast and just rams through any obstacles and has been generally problem-free but I do have a problem with how the motor is mounted.
After a few hundred miles of riding I noted that the motor was moving in the frame. I took the bike back to the shop where I bought it and asked that the motor mount bolts be re-torqued. It's a simple job I can do myself but I wanted a record of this issue.
Bolts re-torqued and I'm back on the trails for another few hundred miles before again feeling that the motor is loose. Again back to the shop, and this time I ask them to use blue Locktite on the three bolts. This is done and the tech offers to add shims to the motor mounts but would need to charge for that. The other work was done under warranty. I decide to wait and see if this latest repair fixes the problem.
So, for the second time the three bolts are re-torqued and blue Locktite is added to keep them torqued. But, now, I hear a creaking from the crank area when I pedal. Tightening the bolts made the creaking worse, so I loosened them to just past finger tight and the creaking has stopped but the bolts are not at their torque values.
The manager of the bike shop where I purchased my Haibike admits that they do not know the bike well, though they have tried to be helpful. I sent an email to Haibike with not much expectation of a reply.
Aside from this problem, and occasionally stumbling around as I try to dismount from that two story frame, it's a wonderful bike.
Thanks for the heads up! Hope you get the problem fixed permanently. Would like to know what Haibike's response is.

BTW-you are referring to the Haibike SDURO AllMtn 5.0, correct?
 

Brooks

Member
MR. BOB.....pull the motor mount bolts out one at a time, pack grease around the bolts and install.....if you want with threadlocker.
Re-torque.
 

MrBob

New Member
MR. BOB.....pull the motor mount bolts out one at a time, pack grease around the bolts and install.....if you want with threadlocker.
Re-torque.
MR. BOB.....pull the motor mount bolts out one at a time, pack grease around the bolts and install.....if you want with threadlocker.
Re-torque.
That is a good idea. I'm going to go a step further and remove the motor to look things over.
I own a handyman business and fix things all day long so I can probably figure out what's going on, the challenge is finding the time. Local Haibike resources are about none. Haibike in Germany has not replied to my email of a week ago.
 

Manu

Active Member
dinamometric wrench 20/40 nm, blue loctite and X-shaped screwdriver from end to end equally, 1,2,3,4.


do not touch in a few hours
 

Manu

Active Member
the key
https://www.amazon.es/TACKLIFE-Dinamométrica-Calibracion-Extensión-Certificación/dp/B076D2TWF7/ref=asc_df_B076D2TWF7/?tag=googshopes-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198986982920&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=631408212233948851&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1005545&hvtargid=pla-421663062170&psc=1

moistens the screw with loctite


you approximate the screws and according to the sequence 1,2,3,4,,use the key dinanometric.


if the blue loctite was not enough use the red loctite 262/270, do not use the pedelec it in 28 hours





 

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