Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

andyraf

New Member
New CCS/CCX Fender Stays - Probably not worth a separate post, but I had to remove the front wheel on my CCX to transport in our car, and of course the front fender stays got all bent up during loading/unloading. I was able to bend them back into place, swearing the whole time at the way they attach to the fenders with tiny Philips-head screws. Today I happened to be looking at the Juiced website and noticed there are new retrofit stays for the CCX/CCS which look a bit better engineered than the original design. At $12 it was worth it to have on hand the next time I have to fix the fenders.

https://www.juicedbikes.com/collections/mechanical/products/new-ccx-ccs-fender-stays
 

Bruce Arnold

Well-Known Member
New CCS/CCX Fender Stays - Probably not worth a separate post, but I had to remove the front wheel on my CCX to transport in our car, and of course the front fender stays got all bent up during loading/unloading. I was able to bend them back into place, swearing the whole time at the way they attach to the fenders with tiny Philips-head screws. Today I happened to be looking at the Juiced website and noticed there are new retrofit stays for the CCX/CCS which look a bit better engineered than the original design. At $12 it was worth it to have on hand the next time I have to fix the fenders.

https://www.juicedbikes.com/collections/mechanical/products/new-ccx-ccs-fender-stays
Good to know!
 

Asher

Well-Known Member
My front brake lever is very loose (after a long hiatus from use). 2018 CCS model.

Anyone have resources to troubleshoot/fix? Do I need to bleed the brakes?
 

Asher

Well-Known Member
My front brake lever is very loose (after a long hiatus from use). 2018 CCS model.

Anyone have resources to troubleshoot/fix? Do I need to bleed the brakes?

I googled for adjusting brake levers, and the first result was... A video of a Juiced CCS!


On closer examination, my brake lever has some vertical looseness. I don't see any way to screw it tighter, since there's just flat chrome nails, so I'll try to use a rubber mallet.
 

Asher

Well-Known Member
I googled for adjusting brake levers, and the first result was... A video of a Juiced CCS!


On closer examination, my brake lever has some vertical looseness. I don't see any way to screw it tighter, since there's just flat chrome nails, so I'll try to use a rubber mallet.

Before taking a mallet to it, I had a bike mechanic friend take a look. He had encountered it before, but said there wasn't much you could do beyond replacing it. I proposed sticking something in between, like a piece of rubber, and he said that might help.
 

Asher

Well-Known Member
Pretty sure the answer is a no, but is there any way to reduce the assist level of Eco? It's too high for where I'm riding which has frequent stops and lots of other riders.

I know I can cut out the assist at a lower top speed, but I may want those for higher speed riding on occasion.
 

john peck

Well-Known Member
New CCS/CCX Fender Stays - Probably not worth a separate post, but I had to remove the front wheel on my CCX to transport in our car, and of course the front fender stays got all bent up during loading/unloading. I was able to bend them back into place, swearing the whole time at the way they attach to the fenders with tiny Philips-head screws. Today I happened to be looking at the Juiced website and noticed there are new retrofit stays for the CCX/CCS which look a bit better engineered than the original design. At $12 it was worth it to have on hand the next time I have to fix the fenders.

https://www.juicedbikes.com/collections/mechanical/products/new-ccx-ccs-fender-stays
Wudda bin nice if they'd done that in the first place. Having to mess with those annoying little screws gets tiresome. They don't hold well.
 
The rattling front fender drove me nuts, a very short drive in every way, so I switched to SKS Blumels. Now I have to use the bell to alert people on the trail instead of simply taking one hand off the bar. The fender shape matches the battery shape perfectly. Don't see how changing the screw placement on the Juiced fender stay would help anything beyond it's easier to access. Agreed, John, "but climate's just too wet where I live."
 

Bruce Arnold

Well-Known Member
The rattling front fender drove me nuts, a very short drive in every way, so I switched to SKS Blumels. Now I have to use the bell to alert people on the trail instead of simply taking one hand off the bar. The fender shape matches the battery shape perfectly. Don't see how changing the screw placement on the Juiced fender stay would help anything beyond it's easier to access. Agreed, John, "but climate's just too wet where I live."
Thanks for the recommendation on the SKS Bluemels. I'll look into them. They have different models, which one did you buy?
 

youth

Active Member
I got rid of most of the fender rub by pulling on the wire in the middle bending it so it bulged out.
 

Chris Hammond

Well-Known Member
I ended up taking off my front fender. I couldn't get it dialed in. Has anyone tried these?
https://www.juicedbikes.com/collections/parts/products/new-ccx-ccs-fender-stays
So that link is just a pair of front and rear fender stays.

FWIW, I had the notorious front fender rattle but I was able to fix it. Disconnect the stays from the fender and put a slight outward bend on each one (gentle curve of about 10 degrees, so that the stay would be ~ 4 cm away from the fender). Do this with the stay mounted on the fork with the 90 degree bend pointed straight up parallel with the fork. After bending the stay, loosen the mounting bolt slightly at the fork. Remount the stay to the fender with it placed immediately against the mud flap at the bottom. Now you can tighten the mounting bolts allowing either slight clockwise or counterclock rotation of the stay to center the fender over the tire. This keeps the stays in a state of constant tension on the fender. Has been working well for thousands of miles for me.
Good luck.
 

youth

Active Member
Have your charger plugged in the outlet before plugging it into the battery. I noticed/heard arcing if I plugged into the battery before plugging the charger. This is with the OEM charger on the CCX.
 

JMuir

New Member
My battery is getting so hot that the plastic around the female part of the battery that fits into the male part of the locking mechanism is melting, and then I need to use a hammer to knock the battery out of the lock mechanism because the molten plastic hardens around the male part of the locking mechanism. I have the Cross Current S largest/widest 48 V battery. Has anyone experienced this? The plastic is melting down into one of the negative terminals. I'm considering getting a drill bit to drill out this plastic and hope that takes care of the issue.
 

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ctbaz

New Member
My battery is getting so hot that the plastic around the female part of the battery that fits into the male part of the locking mechanism is melting, and then I need to use a hammer to knock the battery out of the lock mechanism because the molten plastic hardens around the male part of the locking mechanism. I have the Cross Current S largest/widest 48 V battery. Has anyone experienced this? The plastic is melting down into one of the negative terminals. I'm considering getting a drill bit to drill out this plastic and hope that takes care of the issue.

I would contact juiced and see what the issue is.
 

hurricane56

Active Member
My battery is getting so hot that the plastic around the female part of the battery that fits into the male part of the locking mechanism is melting, and then I need to use a hammer to knock the battery out of the lock mechanism because the molten plastic hardens around the male part of the locking mechanism. I have the Cross Current S largest/widest 48 V battery. Has anyone experienced this? The plastic is melting down into one of the negative terminals. I'm considering getting a drill bit to drill out this plastic and hope that takes care of the issue.
I have the exact same problem and I'm waiting for a response from Juiced. There is another thread on EBR, regarding batteries not seating properly, thus causing a loose connection, electrical arcing and connector melting. If you have an earlier build battery, this is probably caused by a combination of two different causes. Juiced has documented a batch of early batteries that have a manufacturing defect where the electrical connection pins are recessed too far into the plastic housing. The other issue that I don't think anyone has discussed is the part changeover in the plastic battery cap that connects into the locking pin.

I have an early build 48v battery from the HF1000 released in December 2017. Upon comparing my 48v battery to a new build 52v battery, I noticed that the receiver hole for the locking pin is larger. Measured with calipers, it's .567" wide vs the new 52v battery that has a rounder shape and is .52". This oval shape is large enough to cause the battery to rattle and arcing to happen. I'll see what Juiced says, I'm hoping they will treat this like an automotive recall where there is still some support to non-warranty bikes and batteries.
 

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