Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

hurricane56

Active Member
The latest update from Juiced bike is they are offering a battery inspection and repairs charged by the hour. This is a welcome improvement, as when I originally entered a service ticked about electrical contacts, they suggested buying a new battery. It would be a shame to just junk a perfectly good battery due to a $2 plastic part. I'm hoping they will get me a new battery cap that has the modified smaller lock pin hole. That would solve the root cause of my problem.
 

dAz63

Member
On my Ocean current I was getting less range slowly, the bike was 18 months at that point until one day the bike shut down halfway through a ride, anyway after checking for loose connectors etc, I found it was the battery connector pins, if the battery rattles even a little bit in the frame then arcing will occur in the connector.

My 48v 17ah connector didn't melt, but it was dusty and dirty from the arcing, I carefully scraped the worst crusting off the pins, then polished the pins and socket with Autosol, cleaned the connectors with alcohol and thoroughly dried everything.

I then wrapped a wide Velcro strap several times around the battery and frame tightly, I got my range back, no shut downs or weird glitches.

I checked the battery connections a week ago after 5 months, pins and sockets are still bright and clean, so preventing the battery from moving in the frame is the answer.

A friend's bike used a 36v bottle battery, the connector was two thick spring loaded pins pressing into shallow cups on the back of the battery case, incredibly stupid design, any movement of the battery just causes arcs in the connection, even if you clean it, the first pothole causes the bike to shutdown, strapping the battery down helped, eventually he bought a new battery with screw in connectors, no more arcing.
 

hurricane56

Active Member
On my Ocean current I was getting less range slowly, the bike was 18 months at that point until one day the bike shut down halfway through a ride, anyway after checking for loose connectors etc, I found it was the battery connector pins, if the battery rattles even a little bit in the frame then arcing will occur in the connector.

My 48v 17ah connector didn't melt, but it was dusty and dirty from the arcing, I carefully scraped the worst crusting off the pins, then polished the pins and socket with Autosol, cleaned the connectors with alcohol and thoroughly dried everything.

I then wrapped a wide Velcro strap several times around the battery and frame tightly, I got my range back, no shut downs or weird glitches.

I checked the battery connections a week ago after 5 months, pins and sockets are still bright and clean, so preventing the battery from moving in the frame is the answer.

A friend's bike used a 36v bottle battery, the connector was two thick spring loaded pins pressing into shallow cups on the back of the battery case, incredibly stupid design, any movement of the battery just causes arcs in the connection, even if you clean it, the first pothole causes the bike to shutdown, strapping the battery down helped, eventually he bought a new battery with screw in connectors, no more arcing.
What kind of tools did you use to clean the pins?
 

dAz63

Member
What kind of tools did you use to clean the pins?
I used cotton buds/q-tips with Autosol for the pins, then micro brushes with the polish for inside the sockets, those twisted wire brushes used for cleaning between teeth would work too.

Make sure you clean all the polish off with alcohol and dry well
 

hurricane56

Active Member
The latest update from my battery terminal and loose top cap saga is that Juiced has agreed to ship me a top cap for self-installation. They only agreed to send me the part after a number of emails and proposing I pay for the repair, but I guess they figured that it was going to cost them more in shipping to get my battery sent down to their office. I'm hoping that this will finally end the loose battery condition.

If anyone with an early build 48v wide format battery has a loose battery, they should get in touch with Juiced to fix this as it's very clear that the battery wiggling and jiggling will cause arcing and a short circuit condition. In the end, this is something that I'd consider much like a automotive recall where the manufacturer has some responsibility of covering the associated costs for repair on a part with a known issue.
 

karmap

Member
The latest update from my battery terminal and loose top cap saga is that Juiced has agreed to ship me a top cap for self-installation. They only agreed to send me the part after a number of emails and proposing I pay for the repair, but I guess they figured that it was going to cost them more in shipping to get my battery sent down to their office. I'm hoping that this will finally end the loose battery condition.

If anyone with an early build 48v wide format battery has a loose battery, they should get in touch with Juiced to fix this as it's very clear that the battery wiggling and jiggling will cause arcing and a short circuit condition. In the end, this is something that I'd consider much like a automotive recall where the manufacturer has some responsibility of covering the associated costs for repair on a part with a known issue.
What is the top cap you are speaking of.

I have the disconnection issue. Apparently my battery terminal pins are getting pushed in so I am sending my battery in to be repaired or replaced. I am wondering if I should as for this top cap you are mentioning as well.

Anyone else has the terminals in the battery get pushed in? When they fixed it did it fix the issue of random disconnects?
 

BoatFixx

New Member
I think the HF was a pioneer effort to explore the possibilities. Cost overruns probably soured the project a bit, but I think Tora
has taken the lessons learned to improve on the current fat bike offered.
Howdy, neighbor. I've had my Hyperfat "1100" for over a year now. Not one issue and I ride everyday. I've ride often up and around Anderson Lake and out Center over the steep Egg & I up to West Valley, and no problem.
 

hurricane56

Active Member
What is the top cap you are speaking of.

I have the disconnection issue. Apparently my battery terminal pins are getting pushed in so I am sending my battery in to be repaired or replaced. I am wondering if I should as for this top cap you are mentioning as well.

Anyone else has the terminals in the battery get pushed in? When they fixed it did it fix the issue of random disconnects?
The top cap is the plastic piece on the head of the battery that holds the power button and discharge port. The top cap also has a molded hole that receives the locking pin from the lock cylinder when the battery is mounted in the frame. Early wide format batteries have a lock receiver hole that is oversized for the locking pin by roughly .01”. This causes the jiggle or play that is responsible for a loose connection and later leads to arcing and melting of the connector.

Your best way forward is to send the battery back to Juiced and make sure they replace the top cap and discharge port. In my case, I asked them to send a top cap and discharge port. A top cap was sent free of charge even though I’m out of warranty. I also requested to have a new discharge port sent to me, but they refused.

If anyone is in the same position where they don’t want to send the whole battery to Juiced Bikes, the only solution is to partially disassemble the battery by removing the top cap, then unsoldering the discharge port. From there you can use the soldering iron the heat the battery terminals pins to soften the plastic and push them back out 2mm. Solder back the battery discharge wires and reassemble.

This has solved my battery connection issue on my HF1000. I do wish that Juiced Bike would have just sent over all the parts @Tora Harris @Luis Mtz
 

niltohams

New Member
Ugh. JUST received my new CCX today and the battery is definitely loose. If I hold it against the connector (to the right), it powers up fine. But as soon as I let go, the display goes off. Waiting for support to respond to me.

UPDATE: After working with support, it turns out the retainer nut on the bike side of the battery connector was loose. Turning that about half a turn was enough to resolve the issue completely. For those with this issue, fair warning: it's a metal nut on plastic threads. So don't over-tighten the nut thereby stripping the threads.
 
Last edited:

CCSColorado

New Member
For all of you who are having the loose battery issue I am having the same as are plenty of other CCS owners with the extended range battery.

My battery is back with Juiced for its second warranty service. Furthermore, the arc faults or voltage fluctuations have fried the controller. Juiced has, with some protestations, agreed to replace the controller and repair the battery. But regardless I'm now without my bike for over two months out of the 14 months I've owned it, which is frustrating.

Juiced has not mentioned any "battery top cap" replacement in its solutions for me. I have used shims in the mounting hardware along with tie wraps to secure the battery but it was not sufficient to prevent this failure. For winter, I am going to switch to velcro straps to allow me to remove and charge the battery in a warm house instead of a cold garage.

Juiced mentioned to me that the 19.1ah battery is too big for the CCS frame, but would not admit that this is a design flaw when pressed.

There's an extensive (now locked) thread on the topic available here:


If (when) I see any instances of arc faulting following this current repair I may try to retrofit the battery and frame with a free-floating connector that won't be subject to the battery's movement relative to the frame.

@niltohams I also originally fixed this issue by tightening that retainer nut but it was only temporary. You should add straps to your battery as well to prevent additional issues.
 

john peck

Well-Known Member
For all of you who are having the loose battery issue I am having the same as are plenty of other CCS owners with the extended range battery.

My battery is back with Juiced for its second warranty service. Furthermore, the arc faults or voltage fluctuations have fried the controller. Juiced has, with some protestations, agreed to replace the controller and repair the battery. But regardless I'm now without my bike for over two months out of the 14 months I've owned it, which is frustrating.

I bought a 1st edition CCS which came with a '21ah' battery. 6000 miles, no battery problems, But I've worked on every thing else.
Okay, a lot of that was my fault, But I'm not so enamored of Juiced as I was for the first couple thousand. It just wasn't designed
To be what I had hoped. It's a pretty fair commuter, but for $1299 I just bought what I consider an all-around bike, 10 pds.
lighter, fits on a bus rack, & pedals really well even without power. I did have to swap our the bars to get it to fit. It's not
quite so fast as my CCS, but far more versatile. In light of the $3500 I've thus far sunk into the CCS, & unrealistic hype I
bought from juiced, the new bike is a real bargain. Thus far I've found but one negative engineering flaw that was an easy
fix. Fixes for the CCS have not been so easy. I've had it 3 years not counting about 4 mos. of down time.
 

hurricane56

Active Member
For all of you who are having the loose battery issue I am having the same as are plenty of other CCS owners with the extended range battery.

My battery is back with Juiced for its second warranty service. Furthermore, the arc faults or voltage fluctuations have fried the controller. Juiced has, with some protestations, agreed to replace the controller and repair the battery. But regardless I'm now without my bike for over two months out of the 14 months I've owned it, which is frustrating.

Juiced has not mentioned any "battery top cap" replacement in its solutions for me. I have used shims in the mounting hardware along with tie wraps to secure the battery but it was not sufficient to prevent this failure. For winter, I am going to switch to velcro straps to allow me to remove and charge the battery in a warm house instead of a cold garage.

Juiced mentioned to me that the 19.1ah battery is too big for the CCS frame, but would not admit that this is a design flaw when pressed.

There's an extensive (now locked) thread on the topic available here:


If (when) I see any instances of arc faulting following this current repair I may try to retrofit the battery and frame with a free-floating connector that won't be subject to the battery's movement relative to the frame.

@niltohams I also originally fixed this issue by tightening that retainer nut but it was only temporary. You should add straps to your battery as well to prevent additional issues.
You can see in my post #641 on this thread I have a picture of both top caps that click into the locking mechanism. The early build batteries have a top cap with a lock receiver hole that is too big for the lock pin. The old design is about .565". On my bike, an early build HF1000, this caused a ton of arcing and power drop outs. The revised part is .52", so a bit smaller to have the tighter tolerance. I still run a velcro strap on my battery with the new top cap, but I feel the battery would be fine without it. Either way you should push Juiced to give you a new top cap. Also, Juiced Bike should sell replacement battery parts for out of warranty repairs.
 

karmap

Member
For all of you who are having the loose battery issue I am having the same as are plenty of other CCS owners with the extended range battery.

My battery is back with Juiced for its second warranty service. Furthermore, the arc faults or voltage fluctuations have fried the controller. Juiced has, with some protestations, agreed to replace the controller and repair the battery. But regardless I'm now without my bike for over two months out of the 14 months I've owned it, which is frustrating.

Juiced has not mentioned any "battery top cap" replacement in its solutions for me. I have used shims in the mounting hardware along with tie wraps to secure the battery but it was not sufficient to prevent this failure. For winter, I am going to switch to velcro straps to allow me to remove and charge the battery in a warm house instead of a cold garage.

Juiced mentioned to me that the 19.1ah battery is too big for the CCS frame, but would not admit that this is a design flaw when pressed.

There's an extensive (now locked) thread on the topic available here:


If (when) I see any instances of arc faulting following this current repair I may try to retrofit the battery and frame with a free-floating connector that won't be subject to the battery's movement relative to the frame.

@niltohams I also originally fixed this issue by tightening that retainer nut but it was only temporary. You should add straps to your battery as well to prevent additional issues.

I had the battery loose issue with melting contacts and the pins being pushed inside the battery connector.

I sent my battery in and I got it back a few weeks ago. The battery has been flawless since and I can say I actually enjoy my Juice CCS now as I don’t worry about the disconnect. I did have something weird happen last night where the battery was on and the LCD screen worked but I got no motor action. Seems to have fixed it self after ten mins or so though.

I will say that after a year of dealing with Juiced I am still not impressed with their customer service and I think all the disconnecting and weird stuff, a long with not using it as much as I would have liked, has lead to lower battery range than what it should be at 1,500 miles on it to date.

Still..when it works its a great bike.
 

quinn

New Member
Anyone have problems with the stock charger not recognizing the battery is depleted? Mine does not turn green when plugged into an outlet (without being plugged into the battery), and when it is connected to the battery, the light turns green indicating full charge, even though the battery is reading 50v on the display on the bike. I can buy a new charger, but wondering if anyone else experienced this and has any other ideas. Thanks!
 

john peck

Well-Known Member
Anyone have problems with the stock charger not recognizing the battery is depleted? Mine does not turn green when plugged into an outlet (without being plugged into the battery), and when it is connected to the battery, the light turns green indicating full charge, even though the battery is reading 50v on the display on the bike. I can buy a new charger, but wondering if anyone else experienced this and has any other ideas. Thanks!
mine did that once, charger plug loose?
 

beester

New Member
I just ordered the CCX from the Thanksgiving day special. Does anybody have any issues with the spokes and battery connections with the latest release with all the fixes? Should I still Velcro the battery to the frame?

Bee
 

john peck

Well-Known Member
I just ordered the CCX from the Thanksgiving day special. Does anybody have any issues with the spokes and battery connections with the latest release with all the fixes? Should I still Velcro the battery to the frame?

Bee
I'm pretty sure any spoke issues have been resolved since my 1st edition CCS, I've got the then available 21Ah battery which
is still going strong after nearly 7000 mi with no issues. That said, installing the battery was at first a bit tricky. Seat the
bottom of the battery at the bottom, swing the top horizontally to snap into the connector. Do not try to mash it downward
into place. If you are careful with it the first few times it becomes simple. Juiced should have made a video showing this,
but I never found one. I think some of the loose battery issues may have begun before some users got the hang of it.
 
Last edited:

hurricane56

Active Member
I’ve followed the forums pretty closely since getting a bike in 2017 and spoke issues seemed to have been resolved when Juiced swapped suppliers of their spokes to Sapim.

I also haven’t seen too many recent cases of battery disconnect. The downtube where the battery seats is now as wide as the battery itself. Early battery disconnect issues were caused by out of spec battery terminals, battery housing pieces, and more narrow downtube.