Radrover Controller & Display Upgrade Kit

Timpo

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure I'm following but I'll give it a shot. Normally, when updating to a newer battery, you would expect to match the existing wiring to the new battery wires with a pair of HD connectors. XT90's are often used as an example. So if I were going to wire up something like you're considering (an optional extra battery?), I would use an XT90 end on each battery, that would mate with an XT90 on the bike harness leading to the controller.

Wouldn't surprise me if a creative person came up with a new 52v battery in a case that could be matched to it with an identical case, then transfer the stock RAD battery to that case so he could interchange.

The only problem I could see with that would be concerning the low voltage cut off (LVC). The controller has this feature built in to protect your battery from an over discharge. Those are going to be different 48v vs. 52v and you would have to go into the display setup to change them each time the batteries were swapped (I think). You may be able to come up with a compromise setting, but I wouldn't take that idea to the bank.... -Al
Willl one of these 52V batteries fit the Rad Rover?

Shark 52V 14ah

Sea Viper 52V 15ah
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Direct bolt on? No, I would doubt it. At minimum, you would have to change the electrical connectors (bike and battery) to something that would match.

Will it bolt on to the down tube? Possibly. You'd have to pull the Rad battery and get your measuring stick out, referencing the dimensions in the 52v diagram to those used on the stock battery already on your bike. If modifications are necessary, whether or not you could make it work would depend on how creative you are!
 

diffindiff

New Member
Bolton Upgrade kits are available again. I'm going to wait a few months until the controller in his kits include a harness to power factory lights on 2019 models.
Same here...

Being impulsive and impatient as I am, I was also considering getting the current version and splicing together the head and tail light lines. I think I can live without the "brighter when braking" feature, or day time brake lights... just want to have the tail light on at night.

Is anyone using the upgrade kit on a 2019 rover? does this seem feasible?
 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
The 35A controller will be the limiting factor. It won't draw more than 35A from the battery. Basically buying the 52v battery with the 40a bms over the 30a version buys some margin of safety as I'm not sure how the 30a version will handle 35a of power draw.
Would it be beneficial to change the six magnet sensor to the 12 magnet sensor on my 2016 Radrover? Quicker response? I've notice when using peddle assist on a slight uphill from a stand still the motor doesn't kick in till about 6 of 7 mph. maybe cause its harder to peddle up hill, slower to get around the magnets.
 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
Would it be beneficial to change the six magnet sensor to the 12 magnet sensor on my 2016 Radrover? Quicker response? I've notice when using peddle assist on a slight uphill from a stand still the motor doesn't kick in till about 6 of 7 mph. maybe cause its harder to peddle up hill, slower to get around the magnets.
Also, the motor from Ali is no longer available.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Would it be beneficial to change the six magnet sensor to the 12 magnet sensor on my 2016 Radrover? Quicker response? I've notice when using peddle assist on a slight uphill from a stand still the motor doesn't kick in till about 6 of 7 mph. maybe cause its harder to peddle up hill, slower to get around the magnets.
First, 6 magnet vs. 12 on the PAS sensor, I don't think you'll notice much difference in response time. Response should start from the time the first magnet passes the sensor, so 1/6 of a turn vs. 1/12 of a turn.....

Second, the motor should start providing assist as soon as the controller senses the pedals are being turned. Full power doesn't come right away though. It's a "soft start" setup so people aren't startled by the power coming on line. This was one of the big reasons I didn't care for RAD's controller set up and went with a KT system. When I'm crossing a busy street for instance, and I tell it to GO, I want it to GO NOW, not accelerate at a snails pace. When I tell it to go now, I had better be hanging on with both hands....

Finally, not familiar with the '16 RAD product, but no assist power below 6 or 7 mph doesn't sound right to me. That would not last long on my bike for sure. The throttle should be active from a dead stop, no different than the PAS should be active from the time the pedals start to move.
 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
First, 6 magnet vs. 12 on the PAS sensor, I don't think you'll notice much difference in response time. Response should start from the time the first magnet passes the sensor, so 1/6 of a turn vs. 1/12 of a turn.....

Second, the motor should start providing assist as soon as the controller senses the pedals are being turned. Full power doesn't come right away though. It's a "soft start" setup so people aren't startled by the power coming on line. This was one of the big reasons I didn't care for RAD's controller set up and went with a KT system. When I'm crossing a busy street for instance, and I tell it to GO, I want it to GO NOW, not accelerate at a snails pace. When I tell it to go now, I had better be hanging on with both hands....

Finally, not familiar with the '16 RAD product, but no assist power below 6 or 7 mph doesn't sound right to me. That would not last long on my bike for sure. The throttle should be active from a dead stop, no different than the PAS should be active from the time the pedals start to move.
I have the KT system and programmed it with the suggested settings in Bolton’s video. Using throttle has high torque & quick. With peddle assist in Pas 1, speed 6 on level ground no problem, just when I’m on a slight incline. Maybe I need to shift down, but with my old controller I didn’t have that problem. Just trying to figure what’s different.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Ride it for a bit, if you haven't already, to see if you can figure it out. For the life of me, no power below 6 mph makes no sense at all.

Maybe try PAS 2 or 3 to see if increasing the power makes it easier to recognize when the power is coming on?
 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
Ride it for a bit, if you haven't already, to see if you can figure it out. For the life of me, no power below 6 mph makes no sense at all.

Maybe try PAS 2 or 3 to see if increasing the power makes it easier to recognize when the power is coming on?
Guess that's what I'll have to do, I like Pas 1 because you get the most exercise out of riding.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
If you are looking for "most" try 0!

I'm just thinking on 1 that there is so little power coming on early, that you're not recognizing it.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
I'm not that big on the "exercise" bit of the experience. I go riding to enjoy myself while being outdoors. Point there, to each their own.

Sticking by the advice to try a higher level of assist. This will assist in troubleshooting the bike to see if there is something wrong with it. If you feel the assist right away at higher PAS levels, you can get into the display parameters (P14?) and raise the assist level in PAS 1 to something that will accommodate what you are looking for better.

Another hint may be provided by watching the number of watts being used on the display. Watts down around 30-40 may be difficult to detect. By time you're up over 60 or so, that level should be easily detectable.
 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
I'm not that big on the "exercise" bit of the experience. I go riding to enjoy myself while being outdoors. Point there, to each their own.

Sticking by the advice to try a higher level of assist. This will assist in troubleshooting the bike to see if there is something wrong with it. If you feel the assist right away at higher PAS levels, you can get into the display parameters (P14?) and raise the assist level in PAS 1 to something that will accommodate what you are looking for better.

Another hint may be provided by watching the number of watts being used on the display. Watts down around 30-40 may be difficult to detect. By time you're up over 60 or so, that level should be easily detectable.
Thank You, the C14 setting is set at 2, I'll play around with different settings & higher PAS setting to start from a dead stop.
 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
Thank You, the C14 setting is set at 2, I'll play around with different settings & higher PAS setting to start from a dead stop.
Found my problem after watching Bolton's video again. When peddling backwards my tire was spinning, change setting on C1 from a 4 to a 2. Now going up a slight incline is Pas 1 the ebike is running right.
 

Seattleboatmatt

New Member
I've been running Bolton's 35a controller and color lcd kit (LCD8H) for about 40 miles now on an other-wise stock 2018 Rad Rover (14-34 free-wheel). The acceleration is awesome. I can now draw 1200w+ for a short time when I start accelerating. My top end isn't affected much except when I'm going down hill. The new controller will let me go beyond 26mph. The motor's heat hasn't bothered me much yet and I haven't seen a huge reduction in range. That said, I would be a little worried using full throttle or using pas 5 on large hills.

I just made the controller installation more permanent with some tire tube around the handle bars for the display. I also used some tire tube between the controller and the seat tube. I then zip tied the controller to the seat tube. I sprayed Corrosion-X into the controller and connectors before re-securing everything.

I attached the programming guide for the KT-LCD8H to this post for reference.
 

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Errol A Gettner

New Member
I've been running Bolton's 35a controller and color lcd kit (LCD8H) for about 40 miles now on an other-wise stock 2018 Rad Rover (14-34 free-wheel). The acceleration is awesome. I can now draw 1200w+ for a short time when I start accelerating. My top end isn't affected much except when I'm going down hill. The new controller will let me go beyond 26mph. The motor's heat hasn't bothered me much yet and I haven't seen a huge reduction in range. That said, I would be a little worried using full throttle or using pas 5 on large hills.

I just made the controller installation more permanent with some tire tube around the handle bars for the display. I also used some tire tube between the controller and the seat tube. I then zip tied the controller to the seat tube. I sprayed Corrosion-X into the controller and connectors before re-securing everything.

I attached the programming guide for the KT-LCD8H to this post for reference.
Thank You, I've been looking for that programming guide!
 

spmckinnon

Member
I've recently run into some issues with my controller shutting off automatically. Check this thread. Looking for advice.

 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
That's where I got into the bad habit of full throttle all the time.

Anyway, I'm itching to upgrade the motor. It looks to be an easy upgrade, just 6 screws plus transfer over the freewheel. I saw a video on youtube a guy with similar upgrades on a Sondors, with a 35A controller but with a motor upgrade (750w bafang from Luna cycle), that he was able to hit 30mph on throttle and max out at 33mph, & over 20mph up a 6 percent grade hill on throttle only.

There is no way our current motor can come close to that.

Edit: couldn't resist the upgrade urge and ordered this on aliexpress. I measured the dropout width on my Radrover and it's 175mm, though Rad's spec page said 170mm. The nuts, washers, and connectors look the same. Supposed to take 8-16 days to the US, we'll see how that goes.
Do you know of another site to get the Bafang 48v750W motor, Aliexpress say's its no longer available?