Radrover Controller & Display Upgrade Kit

#41
Can someone with the Bolton controller measure the length of it for me? The 2019 Radrover has an aluminum nub on the back of the downtube just above the stock controller. It is used for a ziptie mount to clean up the rear breaklight wiring. I want to see if it is going to interfere and be something I have to deal with.

Thanks
The mounting part is 195mm from end to end.
 
#45
My 750w from AliExpress arrived today, took 7 days to get to Canada from China. Package was poorly wrapped. Picked up the security screws to open the case. I'm all set to install now, just waiting on the new freewheel to get here.

Might just try to take off the existing freewheel. Not sure I have the tools though.
 

Feliz

Well-Known Member
#46
How do you find the performance improvement?
It's great, easy install and the power is like I'm riding my mid drive BBSHD Biktrix, I highly recommend this mod to anyone but especially Canadians who are stuck with the 500 watt setup due to the controller. I put the 35 A controller on a new bike so I can't speak about the range difference but I get 100km out of a battery which is as good as any of my other bikes (approximately, I don't document or record anything ).
 

Timpo

Well-Known Member
#47
Well I just installed and tested out my Radrover Upgrade kit from Boltonebikes.com.
It's a 35a controller and I also chose the KT-LCD8H color display.
My 500W Canadian 2018 Radrover absolutely flies up hills now.
I recommend this to any Radrover owner who wants more power, especially if you bought the 500W Canadian model.
I affixed the controller to the frame with industrial velcro and a few zip ties, seems to be on there pretty good.

Finally I have access to the full potential of the motor.
I'm going up steep hills now at 33-35KM with light pedalling whereas before I'd be struggling to reach 15km/h.

Will post back after some longer rides and commutes to see how battery life is and top speed. Have only done a short test run.

The controller fits ok with the stock fenders too.


One thing to note my PAS sensor wasn't working right away, changing setting C1 to 3 fixed the problem.

View attachment 30623
For a heavier bike like RadRover, maybe that's what it should have came with from the factory.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
#48
For a heavier bike like RadRover, maybe that's what it should have came with from the factory.
You'd hear little argument from me if that were the case. For those that want the control over their electronics that Rad keeps all locked up, these are hard to beat.
 

Timpo

Well-Known Member
#49
But hey, compare to something like Padego Stretch, I think the RadWagon is serious value for the money.

Just add that 35A controller kit and maybe hydralic brakes, still about 1/2 the price of Pedego.
 
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Timpo

Well-Known Member
#50
ok, so I just realized that for whole time I was getting Rad Rover and Rad Wagon mixed up.

Anyways, is this kit compatible to any other Rad bikes?
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
#51
My bet is yes, but I would surely confirm before ordering one.

As far as the value of the Rad bikes, that's been a point of mine from the get go. The DIY'rs (and many others) buy the bike to get the basics, a platform to build on, then take it in their preferred direction with add on parts and/or modifications based on expereience or personal preferences. For instance, mine has had the entire electronics package replaced, shy of the battery, and it's STILL an economically priced bike! Especially so when you consider I sold the OEM parts that I removed for nearly what the 1500w conversion kit, that included the 35a controller and LCD3 display cost me.....

Now thinking I might have to try out a 1500w Mac12t gear drive rear hub setup - which MIGHT put me over the 2000 dollar mark from a cost perspective for the entire bike. Value? I don't think there's any question about it!
 
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Timpo

Well-Known Member
#52
My bet is yes, but I would surely confirm before ordering one.

As far as the value of the Rad bikes, that's been a point of mine from the get go. The DIY'rs (and many others) buy the bike to get the basics, a platform to build on, then take it in their preferred direction with add on parts and/or modifications based on expereience or personal preferences. For instance, mine has had the entire electronics package replaced, shy of the battery, and it's STILL an economically priced bike! Especially so when you consider I sold the OEM parts that I removed for nearly what the 1500w conversion kit, that included the 35a controller and LCD3 display cost me.....

Now thinking I might have to try out a 1500w Mac12t gear drive rear hub setup - which MIGHT put me over the 2000 dollar mark from a cost perspective for the entire bike. Value? I don't think there's any question about it!
oh no I'm not going to order one because I have Juiced CrossCurrent Air, not Rad Rover. However I know a few people looking for an ebike and this is definitely something to consider.

My original controller was 6FET 15A so I switched to 9FET 20A, which made some noticeable difference.
I can't imagine having 35A, that would be a lot of power..

The other thing I didn't like about Rad was that their bikes look like DIY weekend project. Especially the Rad City. It does look like a normal bicycle with battery and motor attached to it. At least Juiced looked a bit better with half integrated battery pack.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
#53
That "DIY project looking bike" features stuff like a battery pack that you will have no trouble sourcing 5 years from now. That's the kind of thing that's going to force many bikes into obsolescence.....

I like the look of the City, and it's drawn a lot of favorable comments from those that have checked it out.

Point being, different strokes.....
 
#54
I'm installing the new 750W from AliExpress. Pretty clear to see Radrover is cutting corners with their motor selection. It may run at 750W, but I doubt its at 750W nominal.

I'm still waiting for the new freewheel to get here, after that I'll post some details on the upgrade.
 

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#55
I'm installing the new 750W from AliExpress. Pretty clear to see Radrover is cutting corners with their motor selection. It may run at 750W, but I doubt its at 750W nominal.

I'm still waiting for the new freewheel to get here, after that I'll post some details on the upgrade.
I have to admit that when I read about motors I skip most of my reading, so I have to ask something that it might be common knowledge for everyone already. Does the motor fit in the bafang casing?
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
#56
Between that and the controller, you've likely sparked a lot of extra performance other Rad's aren't going to have! Sounds like fun. Can't wait to hear your impressions.
 
#58
@thatdude902 What is your diameter setting set to in the new controller? Also what tires are you using?

I have finally installed the new freewheel and tested out the motor. It's seems to be working well, just took it around the block to test with the battery at 25% so not fully tested yet. I am finding that the motor is a little louder when its working hard, especially from standstill using throttle only, did you find that as well?

I will say the 11t cog is fantastic, finally the hamster spinning is over.
 
#59
In one of those Bolton videos, they recommended 29 as the diameter setting for fat tires. I'm using stock Kendas. Seems to be accurate based on known mileage for my rides. As for the noise, I can't say I noticed any difference. But then mine has always been a little noisy, the motor & the kendas. Bump into a couple of friends on a ride and they said they heard me half a block away. They were on road bikes so they weren't making much noise themselves.
 
#60
In one of those Bolton videos, they recommended 29 as the diameter setting for fat tires. I'm using stock Kendas. Seems to be accurate based on known mileage for my rides. As for the noise, I can't say I noticed any difference. But then mine has always been a little noisy, the motor & the kendas. Bump into a couple of friends on a ride and they said they heard me half a block away. They were on road bikes so they weren't making much noise themselves.
Thanks for the prompt response, I wasn't sure if these motors have a break in period or I installed it incorrectly. It's probably just me over thinking things.
Yeah I went back to the stock tires as well. I'll go with the 29" setting.

Only other issue I had was that the axel coming out of the motor where the cable comes through has a slot so the cable can be bend sideways, but when the axel nut is in place and the wheel is installed, the cable bends downwards instead of back towards the middle of the bike so it sticks out a little bit. Not sure if you ran into that issue.

Here are a few photos of the new freewheel and the motor cable.
 

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