Radrover Controller & Display Upgrade Kit

spmckinnon

Member
Ok, so running the Bolton controller C5 setting at 7/10 is perfect with a 52V battery.

I've put on around 200km/s at this setting.

I can maintain 45km/h with pedaling on flats using 650 - 750W @ PAS 4

PAS 5 on flats bumps up wattage between 1000 - 1200 but also gets speed up to 50/55 km/h

I keep it in PAS4 and then throttle up for short bursts to climb hills, accelerate from stop, etc.

Motor temp stays at stock for the most part and I'm getting way more out of the battery now. I can travel around 60km at PAS4 with some throttling with pedaling.

Incredible.
 

tripntx

New Member
Bolton Upgrade kits are available again. I'm going to wait a few months until the controller in his kits include a harness to power factory lights on 2019 models.
 

SpiderDice

Active Member
Bolton Upgrade kits are available again. I'm going to wait a few months until the controller in his kits include a harness to power factory lights on 2019 models.
Annnnd it's gone again..

I'm glad I bought mine. Torque, acceleration and speed up hills is greatly increased.

However, I am getting weird speeds with PAS 1-3. Sometimes, PAS 1 goes around 15mph, other times it's at 18mph. PAS 2 jumps to 21mph, while PAS 3 gets to around 23mph.

Is there anyway that we can change the speeds at the pedal assist levels?
 

CupofJoe21

New Member
I just read through this forum. I replaced the motor with the 750 Bafang motor and ordered this battery: https://em3ev.com/shop/em3ev-52v-14s5p-jumbo-shark-ebike-battery/. I have some more details on installation for anyone else who is thinking of doing this. I don’t know if anyone else had this problem, but I could not get the freewheel off. Thankfully, I was able to get the screws off of the motor casing even with the freewheel on. I’m upgrading to the DNP 11-34T freewheel so it’s not a big deal. In order to get the screws off of the motor casing, you will need a Tamperproof T20 Torx screw head. Also there is a little piece (I think it’s a magnet) that goes in between the axle and the gears inside of the motor. When you take apart the motor, this might fall out. All in all, it wasn’t too difficult to do. For those who have upgrader the motor and the controller, did you change any settings for the controller?
 

Attachments

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Regarding controller settings, in an attempt to make the bike set up the way I wanted it, and to become as efficient as possible with the settings I had chosen, I became pretty familiar with the available settings. So yes, settings were changed. My system involved a direct drive though. Soon, we'll be going back through all that as the direct drive is going to be replaced with a gear drive (MAC 12t), to see what can be done with that.

Big fan of the DNP 11-34, I've read so much of the struggles to remove them, I just ordered a replacement to avoid having to deal with it. I do use anti-sieze on the install, so if I have to remove one, that will make it as easy as possible to remove. -Al
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
I'd agree that if you aren't looking for anything special, it will operate as is with few changes. Being a bit of a geek, I wanted to see what it was capable of....
 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
Someone said the wattage for the 52v battery was 52v x 17.5a = 910 watts, but I though he bought the upgrade battery at 40a. wouldn't that be 52v x 40a = 2,080 watts. Just need some clarification.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Your math is right, but I'm not sure of your question? The number of the note you're referring to?

Oh, and welcome to the forum!
 

thatdude902

Active Member
Someone said the wattage for the 52v battery was 52v x 17.5a = 910 watts, but I though he bought the upgrade battery at 40a. wouldn't that be 52v x 40a = 2,080 watts. Just need some clarification.
Different things. The 52v x 17.5aH (very important: "amp hours") is the capacity of the battery. Whereas the 40a is the max it can output at a given time. So the 52v x 17.5aH equals 910 Watt-hours of capacity. Think of it like this, the 52v x 17.5aH as the size of a gas tank, whereas the 40a is the size of the hose coming out of the gas tank.
 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
Different things. The 52v x 17.5aH (very important: "amp hours") is the capacity of the battery. Whereas the 40a is the max it can output at a given time. So the 52v x 17.5aH equals 910 Watt-hours of capacity. Think of it like this, the 52v x 17.5aH as the size of a gas tank, whereas the 40a is the size of the hose coming out of the gas tank.
Your math is right, but I'm not sure of your question? The number of the note you're referring to?

Oh, and welcome to the forum!
Thanks for the welcome.
Thank you for that info! So will the 35amp upgrade controller handle the possible 40amp output?
I’ve installed the Bolton upgrade kit, 35a controller & KTLCD-8H display, also the hydraulic brakes. Very satisfied with the extra power & braking (which also rid me of a squeak from the rear tire. I’m now thinking about getting the nominal 750 Bafang motor from Aliexpress. It also seems I need to change my freewheel, I have the 2016 Radrover with 14- 28fw. Either a 11-28fw or 11-32fw. After that maybe the 52v-17.5a battery. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Errol, I don't think you're going to get 40a from your battery. Not for long anyway. All of the battery related wiring (internal and external) is too small (14ga). That would also suggest the BMS will be a limiting factor as well, but I don't know that for a fact. So even if the controller and motor were up for it, you are not likely going to see much over 1500w, or a little less than 30a available.

Later model bikes use a DNP 11:32 which works well (about 35.00 from Amazon). I find myself riding in 3rd, 4th and 5th most often, where the stock gear left me in 6yh and 7th most of the time - and no way could I peddle fast enough to see 20mph.

I would like to be able to justify a 52v battery, but can't. Stock battery still working too well. When it's performance drops off, 52v would be my only choice (with close attention paid to what size wire is used in assembly).

If you're up for a little wiring challenge, rather than get the 750, I would skip right to a MAC with motor wound to your choice of speeds. Just finished a MAC 12t install on my City, and very happy with that.
 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
Errol, I don't think you're going to get 40a from your battery. Not for long anyway. All of the battery related wiring (internal and external) is too small (14ga). That would also suggest the BMS will be a limiting factor as well, but I don't know that for a fact. So even if the controller and motor were up for it, you are not likely going to see much over 1500w, or a little less than 30a available.

Later model bikes use a DNP 11:32 which works well (about 35.00 from Amazon). I find myself riding in 3rd, 4th and 5th most often, where the stock gear left me in 6yh and 7th most of the time - and no way could I peddle fast enough to see 20mph.

I would like to be able to justify a 52v battery, but can't. Stock battery still working too well. When it's performance drops off, 52v would be my only choice (with close attention paid to what size wire is used in assembly).

If you're up for a little wiring challenge, rather than get the 750, I would skip right to a MAC with motor wound to your choice of speeds. Just finished a MAC 12t install on my City, and very happy with that.
AHicks, what would be the benefit of the MAC over the 750? Which one to choose, choice of speeds, will it fit into my present 750 housing & what wiring differences involved?
 

thatdude902

Active Member
Thanks for the welcome.
Thank you for that info! So will the 35amp upgrade controller handle the possible 40amp output?
I’ve installed the Bolton upgrade kit, 35a controller & KTLCD-8H display, also the hydraulic brakes. Very satisfied with the extra power & braking (which also rid me of a squeak from the rear tire. I’m now thinking about getting the nominal 750 Bafang motor from Aliexpress. It also seems I need to change my freewheel, I have the 2016 Radrover with 14- 28fw. Either a 11-28fw or 11-32fw. After that maybe the 52v-17.5a battery. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
The 35A controller will be the limiting factor. It won't draw more than 35A from the battery. Basically buying the 52v battery with the 40a bms over the 30a version buys some margin of safety as I'm not sure how the 30a version will handle 35a of power draw.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
AHicks, what would be the benefit of the MAC over the 750? Which one to choose, choice of speeds, will it fit into my present 750 housing & what wiring differences involved?
No it won't fit your housing, but it can be (and usually is) ordered with a wheel already laced up to it. As far as the differences in wiring, the number of wires will be the same. The colors may even match, but there is no assurance that the wiring will work if you match the colors up. That's the hard part....

As fas as why you might want to put yourself through that kind of trouble, most consider the MAC hubs one of the better quality hubs available, capable of a lot of abuse (temporary high wattage).

Which wind to choose will depend on how you use the bike most often. The 10t sits in the middle of the line up, and is likely the more popular. I chose the 12t because I have no need for speeds over maybe 15mph, AND, I'm an extra large sized rider (6'2" 315). The 8t might better suit a cummuter/flatlander looking for more speed. -Al
 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
No it won't fit your housing, but it can be (and usually is) ordered with a wheel already laced up to it. As far as the differences in wiring, the number of wires will be the same. The colors may even match, but there is no assurance that the wiring will work if you match the colors up. That's the hard part....

As fas as why you might want to put yourself through that kind of trouble, most consider the MAC hubs one of the better quality hubs available, capable of a lot of abuse (temporary high wattage).

Which wind to choose will depend on how you use the bike most often. The 10t sits in the middle of the line up, and is likely the more popular. I chose the 12t because I have no need for speeds over maybe 15mph, AND, I'm an extra large sized rider (6'2" 315). The 8t might better suit a cummuter/flatlander looking for more speed. -Al
Al, the 52v battery comes with its own mounting plate, I would like to use my original 48v rad battery as a backup or for use on a long trek, looking at Aliexpress they also have an empty shell battery case, would it be difficult to convert it for the 52v mounting plate.
 

Errol A Gettner

New Member
Al, the 52v battery comes with its own mounting plate, I would like to use my original 48v rad battery as a backup or for use on a long trek, looking at Aliexpress they also have an empty shell battery case, would it be difficult to convert it for the 52v mounting plate.
Concerning the wires from the battery pack to the new shell.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure I'm following but I'll give it a shot. Normally, when updating to a newer battery, you would expect to match the existing wiring to the new battery wires with a pair of HD connectors. XT90's are often used as an example. So if I were going to wire up something like you're considering (an optional extra battery?), I would use an XT90 end on each battery, that would mate with an XT90 on the bike harness leading to the controller.

Wouldn't surprise me if a creative person came up with a new 52v battery in a case that could be matched to it with an identical case, then transfer the stock RAD battery to that case so he could interchange.

The only problem I could see with that would be concerning the low voltage cut off (LVC). The controller has this feature built in to protect your battery from an over discharge. Those are going to be different 48v vs. 52v and you would have to go into the display setup to change them each time the batteries were swapped (I think). You may be able to come up with a compromise setting, but I wouldn't take that idea to the bank.... -Al