Rear hub and derailleur

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Repairs' started by Wooju, Nov 6, 2017.

  1. Wooju

    Wooju New Member

    I ride on the 2014 Haibike FS RS. I bought it new and have done about 200 miles off-road and about 500 overall on the bike.
    Yesterday I came back from a ride in a mtb centre and when packing the bike into the car, the cassette and the rear derailleur came off. The freehub is still attached to the cassette and after closer inspection the thread inside the bit that attaches derailleur to the frame has sheared off.
    As the bike was build on standard mtb parts, shall I replace them with the same or go for the dedicated ones? So far i only found the sram ex1 so would it work with the shimano shifter? Also, shall I invest in the new rear hub or try to repair the broken one? I can post some pictures if needed.

    On the side note, i understand that things brake, but the bike was not cheap and was well spec so what is to blame? Maintenance, not dedicated emtb parts, my 95kg weight, type of ride?

    Thanks in advance.
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2017

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  3. indianajo

    indianajo Member

    If this is the 7 speed shimano rear cluster, abandon it and move on. I have had trouble with the seven speed inner race coming unscrewed, dropping balls and leaving me walking pushing the bike at some random location. Stupid design IMHO. I've also had shimano 6 speed derailleur takeups fracture in the frame between the wheels, and the 5/16" shaft in the 6 speed hub fracture. I was ~ 200 lb when I broke the shaft. Shimano 6/7 speed part is IMHO made in *****, and quality of ****ese "steel" depends on how much lead or copper scrap they put in the melt that day. Even steel in bar stock from ***** of a defined alloy from the steel supply has this variable quality, a car leaf spring maker tells me. We're not allowed to buy American steel anymore, except maybe in oil drilling pipes.
    Shimano 11 speed hubs are highly respected by the guys on roadbike review, so maybe those are actually *****ese steel. The main problem with them, constant fiddling with the shifter, and the chains wear out in 1000 miles even pedalling with feet.
    I've no bad experience with suntour yet, although the shifters I have are primitive compared to the shimano. Suntour is made in ******, a country from which I've gotten acceptable tools made of steel also. Another brand owned by suntour is sturmey-archer. I'm fiddling with the sturmey-archer S80 internal gear hub on my MTB. Unfortunately the shifter control ring has a slot for the pin, instead of a hole, and at 400 miles my shifter pin decided to start popping out every 2nd stop sign. I'm experimenting with a modification before scrapping it. Can't be welded, the ring is plastic.
    SRAM I have no experience with, although the guys on roadbike review have nice things to say about the 11 speed hub. Again, those skinny 11 speed chains are expected to wear out in 1000 manual miles, and I'm sure even less miles on an e-bike. As least the price point is higher than the shimano 7 speed. Maybe they are made in ******.
    As to whether the shifter will be compatible with anything else, that is a dice game. The shimano 7 speed index shifter put a 10 cm dia 1 cm thick cyst above my thumb tendon, with attendent arthritis, so I bought the Sturmey Archer S80 for the twist grip shifter as much as anything. While I'm back on the 7 speed shimano rear cluster, I'm still shifting with the Sturmey Archer S80 shifter, which gets me 2nd, 3rd, and 5 th speeds reliably and pain free before the force gets too high. That with the front 3 speed sprockets gets me around pain free, except on the 15% grade out near my summer camp. There is a detentless twist shifter sold separately for the nuvinci n360 n380, I'm thinking of buying one of those. I won't be buying any 11 speed clusters; making less than one summer on a chain is unacceptable reliability to me.
    Warning, when you change hubs, the spoke lengths are probably going to be different. While there are spoke calculators on the internet, the sizes they come up with are approximate. I ended up buying three different lengths of spokes before it was right. When the calculator asks for the number of crosses, it means the number of crosses one spoke makes, not the number on the wheel. Second tip, if you buy spokes from niagara website you get 100 swiss champion (US made) ones for about $50. Same shop sells forty of the w brand ones on amazon for about $25 free freight. You need 36 typically. W brand ones are ****ese, but I haven't broken one yet. You can go to the local shop, but mine charges $40 to "lace a wheel" plus $2 a spoke, or $112. Three sets of spokes was cheaper than that, and the first set I sent back for only $14 freight round trip. Get the 16 mm or 20mm spoke nipples in any box you have shipped (like with the hub or gear cluster), they are more forgiving of wrong length than the 12 mm ones that come with the spokes.
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2017