Replacing battery

fotografalex

New Member
Shouldn’t it work if I remove the connector and solder the new battery on the cables.



I don’t know why the connector got 7 surfaces because it’s not that many cables behind the connector.



I’ve seen people over volting the system when they connect a new battery on the cables behind the connector, but they still have the original battery running.
 

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Ebiker01

Active Member
I may Look into doing this also for my older 2015 bike . let me know how goes your experiment.
How Will you secured the new battery to the frame ? Drill few holes in the tube and use the mount ?
I am not sure how to solder the cables underneath that connector to the new bat.
From my limited research, 1 cable goes to controller,then another one for e bike brake cut off, and 2other wires negative/pozitive (-,+ ) ? This part i have to study.
 

fotografalex

New Member
This guy say he is speed hacking a easy motion bike. But he’s just overvolting the system. I was thinking if you could connect a battery like he does without having the original battery on the bike.



There’s a bms in the easy motion battery pack and I don’t know if the system recognizes whatever bms or if you have to a specific bms.
 

Ebiker01

Active Member
I just closed my bat. Pack ?.
Yea i’m not sure about that either. My original battery would not accept a Luna cycles charger due to the Bms(i had to disco/reconnect it ).
I guesa it also depends on what year the bike is.
Mine has limiter on throttle built in the controller or battery ?? I dont know yet...
We have to experiment ! I will work on my old bike in a few weeks and will do the same like you:
I’ll get a 48v 17amps or 21amps , drill the tube and allign the battery and hope that the controller accepts it. Is a 2015 model , the controller is cheap and very basic.
Or i may change tje controller too , this way it wiill work !! Then is all sort it out. Fast charger , big pack , i can even get a 1kw rear wheel instead of the 350watts...
Lmk how is your progress going.
 

fotografalex

New Member
I just closed my bat. Pack ?.
Yea i’m not sure about that either. My original battery would not accept a Luna cycles charger due to the Bms(i had to disco/reconnect it ).
I guesa it also depends on what year the bike is.
Mine has limiter on throttle built in the controller or battery ?? I dont know yet...
We have to experiment ! I will work on my old bike in a few weeks and will do the same like you:
I’ll get a 48v 17amps or 21amps , drill the tube and allign the battery and hope that the controller accepts it. Is a 2015 model , the controller is cheap and very basic.
Or i may change tje controller too , this way it wiill work !! Then is all sort it out. Fast charger , big pack , i can even get a 1kw rear wheel instead of the 350watts...
Lmk how is your progress going.
Keep me updated, I will not change my battery in the near future. I had problem with the system shoot down, one off the cells in my battery pack had a bad connection.
 

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viper

New Member
Did you progress on this issue?

I created a new thread around basically the same problem. The battery in my 2015 EVO is giving me headaches with intermittent faults (bike powers down) and measuring the output it shows the voltage goes down to 5V. Likely to be the BMS shutting down the whole battery after finding some problem (a flakey cell?). I asked in a couple of local businesses who rebuild batteries, and they say the Easy Motion batteries are "untouchable" for them (retrofitters) as the BMS needs reprogramming after any change. My only hope would be to refit a new battery and BMS within the EVO battery housing, but I may need to have some hope that this operation might be successful.

I am thinking a meaningful test would be to isolate all pins in the battery connector except the two big ones who transfer the power and see what happens.
Will post results...
 

Ebiker01

Active Member
Did you progress on this issue?

I created a new thread around basically the same problem. The battery in my 2015 EVO is giving me headaches with intermittent faults (bike powers down) and measuring the output it shows the voltage goes down to 5V. Likely to be the BMS shutting down the whole battery after finding some problem (a flakey cell?). I asked in a couple of local businesses who rebuild batteries, and they say the Easy Motion batteries are "untouchable" for them (retrofitters) as the BMS needs reprogramming after any change. My only hope would be to refit a new battery and BMS within the EVO battery housing, but I may need to have some hope that this operation might be successful.

I am thinking a meaningful test would be to isolate all pins in the battery connector except the two big ones who transfer the power and see what happens.
Will post results...
The bikes from their prior years had the battery move a little bit left/right. Maybe that can be a cause but is unlikely.
I think the best is to use the housing and make your battery. But then i’m Not sure with the battery connectors . The Em has 6wires from that port.
Aside from the ones for power, the controller wire , the others I have no idea yet what they are for. Building your own , gotta make a custom connector no ? Or if you get a cheap used battery can use it’s connectors instead of the EM connectors.
I’m trying to scourge for some deals on a new Em whole bike. This way I get new bat, and many components to use....I missed the Crazzylenny bike store deal - a full bike with 600wh bat. for 1grand .
Many stores should have big discounts now b/c the new 2019 EM bikes will arrive !
 

fotografalex

New Member
Did you progress on this issue?

I created a new thread around basically the same problem. The battery in my 2015 EVO is giving me headaches with intermittent faults (bike powers down) and measuring the output it shows the voltage goes down to 5V. Likely to be the BMS shutting down the whole battery after finding some problem (a flakey cell?). I asked in a couple of local businesses who rebuild batteries, and they say the Easy Motion batteries are "untouchable" for them (retrofitters) as the BMS needs reprogramming after any change. My only hope would be to refit a new battery and BMS within the EVO battery housing, but I may need to have some hope that this operation might be successful.

I am thinking a meaningful test would be to isolate all pins in the battery connector except the two big ones who transfer the power and see what happens.
Will post results...
My problem with the battery was that the bike stoped working sometimes. So I opened battery pack and there was one bad contact to one of the cells and I could solder it together. The bike have worked since then.



I won’t pay 1000 dollar plus shipping and taxes for a new battery pack. If my battery starts to shut down again I will try to solve it my self. It would be great if I found a old easy motion battery pack and keep the connector and bms and just change the cells, the new cells don’t need to be in the battery pack. It will be a bit tricky to get the new cells to fit in the battery pack I think.



Another solution would be if it’s possible, just to get cheap battery and go behind the connector that’s attached to the bike and connect the new battery. But I don’t know if the system accept/recognizes a different batter.

Let me know how it works for you when isolate all the pins
 

Ebiker01

Active Member
My problem with the battery was that the bike stoped working sometimes. So I opened battery pack and there was one bad contact to one of the cells and I could solder it together. The bike have worked since then.



I won’t pay 1000 dollar plus shipping and taxes for a new battery pack. If my battery starts to shut down again I will try to solve it my self. It would be great if I found a old easy motion battery pack and keep the connector and bms and just change the cells, the new cells don’t need to be in the battery pack. It will be a bit tricky to get the new cells to fit in the battery pack I think.



Another solution would be if it’s possible, just to get cheap battery and go behind the connector that’s attached to the bike and connect the new battery. But I don’t know if the system accept/recognizes a different batter.

Let me know how it works for you when isolate all the pins
A few months ago I had Patrick from ebikemarketplace, he actually managed to replace all cells and have the bat. From 36v 11.6 to 14.5amps. So from a 416wh to 500wh. But it was not cheap - 500$... now I know some stuff, but I won’t go into changing cells b/c that’s really delicate work and I will leave it for exp. people or maybe until I am confident 1000%. It takes time too, I think it’s a 3-4hour job for a pro, maybe 7hours for a less exp. person.
With this there are no mistake allowed !!
 

fotografalex

New Member
A few months ago I had Patrick from ebikemarketplace, he actually managed to replace all cells and have the bat. From 36v 11.6 to 14.5amps. So from a 416wh to 500wh. But it was not cheap - 500$... now I know some stuff, but I won’t go into changing cells b/c that’s really delicate work and I will leave it for exp. people or maybe until I am confident 1000%. It takes time too, I think it’s a 3-4hour job for a pro, maybe 7hours for a less exp. person.
With this there are no mistake allowed !!
I believe you, it’s going to take some time. It’s not much room in that battery pack. Did he change the bms too? I wish I had those extra amps
 

Ebiker01

Active Member
No, same BMS ! I have another used battery, I may experiment with it later on. A good solder iron for this application is 90-140$. Instead of the 18650! cells I would like to put the 21700 cells. Not sure how the fit will be and if the BMS accepts them ? Have to go on that ebike technical forum(I call it like that, b/c Is a lot of very technical and skilled people with doing e bike transformation/battery rebuilds) -endlesssphere and ask around ...



I believe you, it’s going to take some time. It’s not much room in that battery pack. Did he change the bms too? I wish I had those extra amps
 

WonkyBass

New Member
In the UK I paid $800 each for 2 x 12aH batteries for our 2014 Neo Cross and City. The City bike battery was cutting out under load but the Cross is still good.

The new batteries contain an updated BMS that should better protect the cells from misuse, although I only found this out accidentally as it’s not documented. The City battery also represents an upgrade from the original 9aH. The only issue is that that the handlebar display now flashes empty every 10 seconds.

I can’t therefore be of help with the original question of how to avoid buying a battery from the manufacturer. And my costs and availability will be different in the UK. But I now anticipate another 5 seasons usage from the bikes. I considered changing the cells or having someone else do it but, compared to buying new units from the factory (originals from China, new ones Taiwan) I felt the risks and cost/benefits favoured the manufacturer. I do work on our bikes to keep them in good order but, for me/us the hobby is riding them. I also imagined that I might get the City battery re-celled as a spare but now see this as an unnecessary extra expense.
 

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viper

New Member
I have tested how it works by isolating the "signal" pins in the battery, so only connecting power contacts. Unfortunately it doesn't work.
The bike powers on, but the battery indicador blinks, the assistance indicator gets set to "No assist", and the controller does not allow to select any assistance level. Walk mode works, but only at 6Km/h. This seems to prove there is some handshake from BMS to controller, and there is no way to use a generic BMS (or a full "universal" battery).

Worst thing is that according to a comment in this video
Someone say the battery stopped charging after the BMS got disconnected from power, so it seems to rule out the chance to "reset" the BMS only. The guy in the video in the following parts state the BMS does not work and shows the same behavior I have verified. Maybe some version may work differently.

What I have tested, and seemed to work fine is to do a full slow discharge (at home, using a light bulb) and then a charge using standard charger but out of the bike (if that has any difference). I returned from a 40Km route having lots of issues, did this procedure, and then a 45Km route without any single issue. Maybe the full (slow) discharge made a proper balancing?

Thanks for your suggestions.
 

Ebiker01

Active Member
In the UK I paid $800 each for 2 x 12aH batteries for our 2014 Neo Cross and City. The City bike battery was cutting out under load but the Cross is still good.

The new batteries contain an updated BMS that should better protect the cells from misuse, although I only found this out accidentally as it’s not documented. The City battery also represents an upgrade from the original 9aH. The only issue is that that the handlebar display now flashes empty every 10 seconds.

I can’t therefore be of help with the original question of how to avoid buying a battery from the manufacturer. And my costs and availability will be different in the UK. But I now anticipate another 5 seasons usage from the bikes. I considered changing the cells or having someone else do it but, compared to buying new units from the factory (originals from China, new ones Taiwan) I felt the risks and cost/benefits favoured the manufacturer. I do work on our bikes to keep them in good order but, for me/us the hobby is riding them. I also imagined that I might get the City battery re-celled as a spare but now see this as an unnecessary extra expense.
They have in 2019 this model a 20mph max., the Xcross step with a720wh.-thanks to the 21700xell design. My 2015 one had. 418wh. What a difference ...almost2 batteries in one.
I also got a 2018 S pedelec -the Nitro City- with 600wh, with the newer 21700cels, judging from how often they increase battery capacity , i hope in 2020 that they will release an 850-maybe 1kw battery. The new models from 2018 are greatly improved , everything , paintjob, accessories, EM or BH company is looking to be a serious contender amongst top 3 e bike brands.
You could try having the bat. Built with the new 21700cells, bigger cappacity, but still 4-500$ from a reputable builder.
 

fotografalex

New Member
I have tested how it works by isolating the "signal" pins in the battery, so only connecting power contacts. Unfortunately it doesn't work.
The bike powers on, but the battery indicador blinks, the assistance indicator gets set to "No assist", and the controller does not allow to select any assistance level. Walk mode works, but only at 6Km/h. This seems to prove there is some handshake from BMS to controller, and there is no way to use a generic BMS (or a full "universal" battery).

Worst thing is that according to a comment in this video
Someone say the battery stopped charging after the BMS got disconnected from power, so it seems to rule out the chance to "reset" the BMS only. The guy in the video in the following parts state the BMS does not work and shows the same behavior I have verified. Maybe some version may work differently.

What I have tested, and seemed to work fine is to do a full slow discharge (at home, using a light bulb) and then a charge using standard charger but out of the bike (if that has any difference). I returned from a 40Km route having lots of issues, did this procedure, and then a 45Km route without any single issue. Maybe the full (slow) discharge made a proper balancing?

Thanks for your suggestions.
I asked a bike shop owner for help when my battery pack didn’t work. He told me that I should charge the battery for 24 hours so the cells got balanced.

I don’t know if that will help you.



Have you opened up your battery pack and see if there is any connection problems ? My evo cross battery wasn’t hard to open.