Review: My OneMotor drive (formerly Shareroller)

Lin B

Active Member
I've now had my 1M for a little over a week or so.

I'll try to discuss it in a logical sequential manner. First, packaging was excellent, everything had a cut out in a padded box.
There were no instructions in the box, but that's because Jeff hasn't completed them yet and early backers are getting them
in an email (as I did). Some of the images in the emailed instructions could be clearer as I made some minor mistakes with
the installation process at first, however, someone more experienced mechanically might do better. In any case, emails to 1M were answered quickly and completely and all my questions were answered.

Build Quality, Accessories, Parts: Having backed other crowdfunded projects only to find they came up well short of what I was promised or envisioned, I had moderate expectations. I was delightfully surprised to find that the build quality on the battery enclosure and motor far exceeded my expectations. The battery case is....well....just beautiful. The handle collapses and locks firmly and securely, the metal on/off button doesn't feel flimsy at all. The Topeak mounting system (which I opted for) works very well, clicks securely in place and releases quickly. The handlebar controller (WIRELESS!) mounts easily on the cat eye system bracket. It can be difficult to view the display in very bright sunshine but my rides are all in and out of shade so not a problem. If you ride in bright sun all the time, you might prefer to mount your phone and use the phone app which will be easier to see. Both the phone app and the handlebar controller provide all the info you need. The controller has 2 selectable physical buttons and tiny joystick; there is a learning curve on all the functionality (wow, there is a lot!) but it works great once you know how to use it. The PAS sensor (WIRELESS!) attaches magnetically to the crank at the inside by the pedal. Bands are supplied for those who ride in conditions where they are concerned about losing it. It is slim and simple to attach.

A lot of information is provided by various lights on the the various parts of the device. Again, a learning curve to understand
what lights signify is part of the process. Yes, you can put it on and just ride...but you get more out of it once you learn the details.

Now - the motor. It attaches to the mount quickly and easily with retracting magnetic "bolts". When you install it, you set the
correct distance and from time forward, the software determines exactly how much pressure to apply to the tire. It adapts on the fly as you ride. When I rode a particularly bumpy road, I could feel the motor reset the pressure to maintain contact and I
never felt any tire slippage. Aside from the first time I used it, I have not noticed any tire wear at all (and that first time was my mistake). Friction drives are known for their high pitched RC motor whine - Jeff has done a very good job here in dampening the noise. I cannot hear it at all when I am listening to tunes, and when I'm not, it is a lower pitched sound that blends in with traffic noise easily. Can someone hear you coming? Not from a distance, but when you are close, yes they can hear the motor if you
are going fast. Personally, I think that's a good thing. I want pedestrians to know I'm coming up behind them.

So let's talk about range. I chose the smaller battery, the 130 w/h unit. Jeff rated it at 10-20 miles. Obviously range will be determined in part by the weight of your bike, your weight, and your speed. I can tell you I was absolutely shocked yesterday
when I rode to a doctor's appointment (14.6 miles round trip) and had 40% battery left. I chose to ride in PAS level 1 most of
the time, with occasional bursts up into level 3 for some overpasses and hills, and pedaled at a cadence of 80-85rpm, speed between 12 mph (facing bad headwinds) and 16 mph on my single speed Dahon Mu Uno. This was on a bike path with a limit of 15mph so I was being good. But - you can go 20 mph without pedaling (throttle) and hit 28 mph if you pedal!!!!
Estimated total range based on that ride is 20-22 miles!

This is my first PAS electric bike; I previous had a throttle only ebike. I was a little reluctant to even get the PAS controller because I didn't think I would use it, but Grace convinced me. I am so grateful to her for that! Riding with the PAS is seamless and so easy - even for someone like me who only wants to use the motor during parts of many of my rides. Push one button on the controller and the PAS is paused, push again and it resumes, so you can ride manually and just flick it on for hills or headwinds, or you can just run it on any one of the 9 levels to get a workout or give yourself a break. You don't even feel it connect and retract from the tire, as the software adjusts perfectly.

Jeff has been working diligently with me on developing a custom mount for my Bike Friday pakiT and I will add to this review once I've had a chance to ride with 1M on the pakiT. As a geared bike, the experience should be even better, I think.

Last thing to mention is convenience. At the doctor's office, I locked up the Dahon. In 10 seconds I had removed the motor, battery, controller, and PAS unit and connected them all together magnetically. I dropped the entire thing into my bike bag
and took it with me into my appointment. No worries about theft of my electric system. If I came out and my Dahon had been stolen, I would have been sad, but I would have the expensive part to put on any other bike. Installing it back on the bike after
the appointment was just as quick as removing it. It's never going to be a problem taking it into a movie, restaurant, or anywhere else =). Living in the Bay Area (or any urban setting) bike theft is always going to be an issue - being able to separate
the expensive components from an inexpensive bike is such a great solution!

If I didn't address some question you have, please let me know and I will respond. Otherwise, I'll update the review in another week or so. OneMotor = highly recommended!
 
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Lin B

Active Member
Pic on my Dahon, rear and front mounts on my Bike Friday pakiT, and ready to carry with the controllers mounted magnetically to the main unit (that's a size small Bern helmet for comparison).
 

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Lin B

Active Member
I tried to add a brief video but couldn't find a file format this site likes, lol. I live very close to the water (SF Bay) and many times the offshore winds will be blowing like crazy and I'll think "hmmm...maybe I won't ride today because facing that headwind will just wipe me out". Today was one of those days - but - I set the motor on PAS and rode 16 miles and it was amazing! Didn't keep all the crap out of my eyes (well, that's not a feature, ha) but it basically felt
like I was riding on a not very windy day, putting in normal effort, but not getting blown south all the way to L.A.!!!
When the headwinds are 20+ mph and I ride the paths at the legal 15mph, it's a losing battle...but not with the 1M.
This little thing is going to get me out riding on days where I would normally say no way. You can see the video here: Video (of motor in use) -
 
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miro

Member
I tried to add a brief video but couldn't find a file format this site likes, lol. I live very close to the water (SF Bay) and many times the offshore winds will be blowing like crazy and I'll think "hmmm...maybe I won't ride today because facing that headwind will just wipe me out". Today was one of those days - but - I set the motor on PAS and rode 16 miles and it was amazing! Didn't keep all the crap out of my eyes (well, that's not a feature, ha) but it basically felt
like I was riding on a not very windy day, putting in normal effort, but not getting blown south all the way to L.A.!!!
When the headwinds are 20+ mph and I ride the paths at the legal 15mph, it's a losing battle...but not with the 1M.
This little thing is going to get me out riding on days where I would normally say no way.
 

miro

Member
If it wasn't for the arrogant US government agency TSA, I would have my 1M already in my hands too and would be now facing here in Alps probably the same weather you're sometimes over there subject to. But that parasitic PITA is affecting all of us around the globe. No worry, I receive soon my 1M as OneMotor Team is working hard fighting the careless bureaucrats as they're tough equally as their 1 M product.
 
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Lin B

Active Member
Another video - this time I got the lights on the motor showing, and you can hear what it sounds like with just throttle and no PAS as I ramped speed up. I stopped the throttle at around 15mph as there's no way I'm going faster than that with one hand on the bike and the other holding my naked iPhone, lol. The sound as it accelerates sounds like a "tea kettle" whistle, but not as loud, of course. It's not an unpleasant noise. One thing I watched for was to see if people look up to see what's coming (a good indicator that it's loud) and no one seems to notice, so
I think - at least in city use - the sound is a non-issue. It also kept me moving quite well over a section of washboard pavement that is not fun on small tires!
 

Lin B

Active Member
Another ride, another experience. I live in the Bay Area for those that don't know. While our weather is usually very good, our best bike trail is right along the water and the offshore winds can be intense. Previously, if the wind was up I'd either ride more inland or skip a ride. But yesterday there was a Pie Popup 10 miles away in Oakland and I wanted to bike there. Now my intention when I backed the 1M was not to ride motorized all the time; my plan was to use the motor sparingly as needed and continue to get maximum exercise. So I headed out with the motor off and went about 6 miles when I ran into a miserable headwind. As my cadence dropped and my speed dropped, I turned on the PAS system (single press on the PAS sensor) to level 1. That was just enough boost to cut through the wind and let me feel as if I were riding normally with a mild headwind. I left it on until I turned away from the Bay on my route, then I switched it into "pause" mode (single button push on handlebar controller). I'd planned on making the remaining miles manually but I got a text from the Pie Lady that she was almost out of fresh peach pie....so I bumped that motor up (another button press on controller to "unpause" and a quick flick of the joystick to level 3) and zoomed
at a nice 17mph pace the last two miles (1M can actually go 20mph unassisted and 28 mph with pedaling, but I find those both too fast for me) . Got there in time for the very last slice =). Met up with some friends and removed the 1M from the bike (10 second removal), quick folded my pakiT into their car, and got a ride home. So far the 1M is fitting very nicely into my car-free life. The ease of operation, anticipated by the functionality of the PAS and controller systems, is fantastic. I personally don't keep my phone out when I ride (I use turn by turn directions on bluetooth headphones) so I haven't made much use of the phone app that goes with 1M. Maybe I'll try that next time.
 
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Lin B

Active Member
Took a 19 mile ride, most of it without motor by choice. Normally, I check the weather websites before I ride the Bay Bridge trail to the Treasure Island lookout, because it's windy like crazy out on the bridge. Loaded up with my 1M, I just decided to go and see how things worked out. Winds were 22mph+ on the bridge. I probably would have gone about a third of the way and turned back if not for the 1motor. I turned on the PAS and was able to use the assist to cut my effort back to something more normal than riding in a hurricane, lol. I kept the assist level pretty low because I wanted the workout but I didn't want to have to battle the wind along with the incline. When I reached the top, I had a huge grin on my face because I realized I would never have to check the stupid weather reports again!
 

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Lin B

Active Member
Hey @Lin B - did you check how much battery remained at the end of this adventure?
Yes, but as I said I only used it for the incline up the bridge, not the entire 19 miles. I only used 15% to get up the bridge (looong bridge) at PAS level 3-4. My longest ride so far using the battery/motor the whole time was 15-ish miles, PAS at level 1 with throttle boosts over a couple hills - ended up still having 40% battery left. The higher the assist and more throttle obviously your range is lower. What's amazing (and this is something I find the phone app works better for than the controller display because it is so much easier to see unless you have 20-20 vision) is how the range estimates are changed on the fly depending on what "source" you are using. So when I just wanted to run up a couple big hills to a market yesterday, I could see the range change from 24 miles at level 1 PAS down to 8 miles at full throttle. This is just brilliant. If you're out riding and your battery % gets down, you can "hyper-mile" all the way home at the lowest level or you can pause the PAS on all the flats and just boost yourself over hills. But you have complete control and knowledge of where your range is left, so you can make those choices. There's no guessing!

Next big ride I will take some screenshots of the app and post them. One at the start, one in the middle of my ride, and one at the end. There's a lot of info on the app, I've just started using it (been using the controller display) so I'm diving into what it all means.
 

pocomo

Member
Thank @Lin B, that's very useful info. One more question: when you disengage the PAS, how long does it take for the bike to feel "analog" again? Also, does that happen automatically while coasting downhill?

One of the great advantages I envision for the OneMotor is the ability to 100% remove itself from the drive system if you're wanting to "go stealth" or back to complete analog mode for a while.
 

Lin B

Active Member
Thank @Lin B, that's very useful info. One more question: when you disengage the PAS, how long does it take for the bike to feel "analog" again? Also, does that happen automatically while coasting downhill?

One of the great advantages I envision for the OneMotor is the ability to 100% remove itself from the drive system if you're wanting to "go stealth" or back to complete analog mode for a while.
If you're running in PAS and press either button on the handlebar controller, the motor retracts immediately. You can also trigger the retract by doing a "wiggle" with the pedals (left pedal at top, go back and forth a little bit quickly) but I haven't mastered that yet. The motor retracts from the wheel instantly. When the motor is retracted, your bike feels exactly like it does when no motor is on the bike! Several times I've gone out for rides with the motor set on pause from the start, knowing I could tap PAS on whenever I wanted later in the ride. It doesn't seem to drain the battery when paused.
It does not disconnect automatically when coasting downhill, it maintains a light pressure which is actually providing slight regen charge. You can actually pedal backwards using the PAS and it will help brake the bike and push full regen - I'm told you can add 10-15% range that way. So, if you're a "dive bomber" down a hill you would probably just hit pause; if you're cruising down a hill with busy cross streets, you would probably just let the little bit of drag happen, it's very minor.
I'm still playing with the best way for me to use the system - sometimes I just set throttle at a low setting, ride manually, and then throttle-assist up a hill and other times I ride with PAS (long routes with steady headwinds, for example, or to keep up with my millennial son) and just pause as needed. Still trying to figure out the best range techniques, the app certainly gives me all the data I need. The flexibility of the system is awesome but it does create a learning curve, lol.
 
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Lin B

Active Member
Ok, just a brief note to say that today I did my first "wiggle"!!! You can turn the PAS off and on by jiggling the left pedal back and forth a tiny bit when it's at the top of the stroke. So if you don't want to push the button on the handlebar controller, or don't even want to take it, you can control the PAS functions using the various "pedal" commands. I'm just starting to learn them.
 

Lin B

Active Member
So today's lesson is that tire pressure matters, lol. By pumping my kojak tires up to 105-ish rather than my usual 90 psi, I radically improved the riding experience with my 1M. Two rides now, one 19.2 miles today and the other 6 miles yesterday, and with the added tire pressure my acceleration, speed and overall experience is lightyears better! Not that it was bad before at all; it was more in keeping with what I thought a friction drive would be like. With the increased tire pressure, this thing is a ROCKET! And there has been absolutely no slipping or pressure adjustments from the motor AT ALL with the harder tire pressure, climbing is a breeze. Now I'm speculating here, as I have zero technical education in physics, but I'm thinking the very flexible thin sidewalls on the kojaks and the softish rubber benefits from the higher pressure. On my Dahon, I have a Marathon Racer - that is a much harder rubber, with actual tread pattern, and regular thickness sidewalls. I've not noticed that tire pressure matters as much with that tire. In any case, I was very pleasantly surprised by the improved ride which far exceeded what I thought a friction drive could do, lol. So, moral to the story, if you get a 1M and use Kojaks or other slicks, start out at your highest psi and save yourself the learning curve. You'll be blown away.
 

Lin B

Active Member
Been focused on alternative mounting solutions, not because there's anything wrong with the bracket system, but I wanted a hands-free carry system. I think I have found the perfect thing - with the bracket off the 1M battery, it fits just right inside my Revelate feed bag. Remove the bag and it attaches to my Patagonia sling bag under the exterior straps. Then I can pop the motor section inside the bag (which takes up less room than putting the whole 1M in the bag) and leave room to sneak a bag of chips into my movie, lol. Hey,
don't judge me ;-).
By mounting at the rear of the bike with the cable run under the BB, you can still fold the bike in parking mode without removing the cable. And, of course, the bag fits by the stem at the handlebars (as it was intended) to run the cable to the front mount. Super secure, super quiet, super safe. The pakiT u-shaped kickstand actually prevents any sideways movement at all while riding.

I can reverse it and put it on the other side of the seatmast, but then it prevents the seat mast from dropping down to lock the wheel when doing a full quick fold. Where it is now, it doesn't create a problem (just unclip the bottom strap and move it out of the way).
 

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Lin B

Active Member
@Lin B What's that with the rubber bands on the crank arm?
One is my Wahoo cadence sensor which attaches with a zip ties. The other is the 1M cadence sensor, which needs to be mounted in the middle of the crank so (at the moment) it can't mount magnetically like it normally would at the pedal end. Jeff is thinking about a small metal plate that secures with zip ties, and then the magnet would work anywhere on the crank. I have small cranks (165mm) and so the tolerances are very close at the end; my cranks also curve inward (Sugino). They are not the stock cranks that come with the pakiT. I do not
have this issue at all on my Dahon, it's just some pakiT configurations that may need the adapter.
I just came back from a ride with this new setup and I love it! Absolutely silent, not a single sound, and I can "park" or fold without removing anything. Front mount is now removed, see last pic.
 

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