SDURO 48t chainring conversion

Gdogg

New Member
#1
Hi,I have a Haibike SDURO 6.0 with a Yamaha PW motor,I’ve derestricted it with a speedbox2 and I’d like to up the front chainrings to 38/48 from the treckking model the only concern I have is the front derailleur height.The treckking bike uses an xt m781 front mech but shimano state a maximum of 44t??? Has anyone done this swap? Any info would greatly be appreciated.
 
#2
[QUOTE = "Gdogg, Beitrag: 119241, Mitglied: 16285"] Hi, ich habe ein Haibike SDURO 6.0 mit einem Yamaha PW Motor, ich habe es mit einer Speedbox2 abgesperrt und ich möchte die Kettenblätter auf 38 / 48 aus dem Treckking-Modell die einzige Sorge, die ich habe, ist der Umwerfer Höhe. Das Treckking-Bike verwendet einen xt m781 Front Mech aber Shimano Zustand maximal 44t ??? Hat jemand diesen Tausch gemacht? Jede Information wäre sehr willkommen. [/ QUOTE]
 
#3
[QUOTE = "Gdogg, Beitrag: 119241, Mitglied: 16285"] Hi, ich habe ein Haibike SDURO 6.0 mit einem Yamaha PW Motor, ich habe es mit einer Speedbox2 abgesperrt und ich möchte die Kettenblätter auf 38 / 48 aus dem Treckking-Modell die einzige Sorge, die ich habe, ist der Umwerfer Höhe. Das Treckking-Bike verwendet einen xt m781 Front Mech aber Shimano Zustand maximal 44t ??? Hat jemand diesen Tausch gemacht? Jede Information wäre sehr willkommen. [/ QUOTE]
Hallo ich habe das same beim sduro,müsste leider das ritzel einwenig abschleifen aber dann funktioniert es wenn der umwerfer ganz hoch gestellt ist
 

Ken M

Active Member
#4
Hi,I have a Haibike SDURO 6.0 with a Yamaha PW motor,I’ve derestricted it with a speedbox2 and I’d like to up the front chainrings to 38/48 from the treckking model the only concern I have is the front derailleur height.The treckking bike uses an xt m781 front mech but shimano state a maximum of 44t??? Has anyone done this swap? Any info would greatly be appreciated.
I have a Trekking mode that has a 48t front chain ring stock that is derestricted. The problem is that when I'm running on that chainring at speed the gear ratios dramatically reduce the torque delivered to the rear wheel so you don't feel like your getting much assistance. I end up staying on the smaller chain ring and just going with a fast cadence. If you have a 44T on their now do some trial runs on the bike and then realize you will be effectively getting almost 10% less assistance if you install the larger chain ring.

I think more needs to be written about the tradeoffs of a mid drive motor like the Yamaha PW - great mtn bike and climbing motor but really not the best for fast pedelecs. Bosch gives up some low speed climbing performance with the small chain ring design they have (spinning them at 2.5X the crack cadence) but this design provides more effective performance at high speeds because less torque is lost.

I kind of understood this when I purchased the Haibike Trekking model with the Yamaho PW motor but wanted Yamaha because I felt is was a more durable motor (internally I think their drive system is designed to last a very long time - I think all the gearing is metal, while most mid-drives have at least some plastic gears). I also have a powerful rear gearless hub motor Polaris that performs better then the Haibike at speeds higher than say 18mph because the torque is applied at the rear wheel (would be a great article if someone could present the what is the actually efficiency/effectiveness of the drive system alternatives at speeds from 20-35mph because this is where people with urban commute needs will be wanting to ride at).
 

Gdogg

New Member
#7
Hi,firstly thanks to everyone who has posted on here especially Ken M and his experience.I think I should explain a bit more in what I’m trying to achieve.Next week I turn 50 I’m a 20st diabetic with arthritic knees and a compressed disk in my spine so a road bike is out of the question for me,I ride both on and off road and when I do road miles in the winter an e bike seemed the right way to go.I love the bike and like most people soon found the limits of the assistant’s too low and I still like to push myself as much as I can,I live in the UK and the first thing I noticed on here is the difference in software for different markets and spec,so just to be clear I have an SDURO 6.0 all mountain UK spec which is a 32/44 up front and an 11/36 out back,to refer to Ken’s post it’s not lack of toque I’m experiencing it the sensation of running out of gears.In de-restricted mode I can hit 50kmh and it feels like it’s lack of gearing that’s holding me back which is why I’m looking into changing the chainrings up front.By the way I am riding the bike in std mode most of the time and with the limits off I still get full assistance at 50kmh.All I want to know is if I will have to move the front mech higher for a 48t ring or do I change it out for the Mech off the trekking model??
 

JayVee

Well-Known Member
#8
This looks like the European model referenced in your link. Does the US version have the 36/48 as well? Points to ponder...
It's the EU Speed Pedelec version. I actually have one. I strongly suspect that the frame is the same as the Sduro 6.0. And it has the same derailleur too:

  • FRONT DERAILLEUR
    Shimano Deore XT M781

Am I missing something here?
 

Gdogg

New Member
#13
As it’s a direct mount Mech I can see no reason why I couldn’t drill and tap another hole so I could move it up to accommodate a larger ring? Surely if I keep to a 10t maximum there shouldn’t be a problem??
 
#14
i went from a 38t to a 44t (Haibike Cross SL), the research i did, I don't think the Sduro Chain Guide, will be able to sit high enough on a 48T
 

Gdogg

New Member
#15
Hi,my bike doesn’t have a chain guide if you mean the front derailleur the problem I have got is the front Mech on the SDURO treckking and the SDURO all mountain are both listed by shimano as 44t max although the SDURO treckking uses a 48t chainring
 

Manu

Active Member
#16
Your pedelec has a wheel of 27.5+ that is equal in circumference to a wheel of 29 inches and both are of greater circumference to the 28 inches of the treking and marathon, that greater difference causes that at same cadence you have the same speed that the trekking and cross.you do not need the 48 tooth plate.


Take lighter tires you can remove 400 grams on 2 wheels and you will win easier to roll and more battery autonomy.
The treking and cross model is much simpler and is adapted for asphalt and track without holes, the position of the human body is 60º, more aerodynamic vs 90º MTB and the wheels are lighter than those of MTB, being lighter they help to roll more Easily with less effort and give more battery autonomy
 
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Gdogg

New Member
#17
Hi Manu,thanks for the info,your right in what you say,I had reached the same conclusion with the front. Chainring setup,but there is another way to get more speed on the road and still maintain the bikes qualities on the trail.Im now looking into a 9-42 cassette,which according to my gear calculator would give me 50.9 kmh at a cadence of 80 (stock gearing is 41.7 kmh at the same cadence) which is pretty close to what I’m getting now,all I need to find out now is whether I can swap out my driver for a sram xd one or option two is to rebuild the wheel with a hope pro4 hub,then I can swap out drivers at will and open up loads of options.By the way the cassette is purpose built for a 2x10 setups.
 

Manu

Active Member
#18
The 9 only you get performance downhill because to really take advantage of light pedelec with 4 kilos less,you need to maintain a higher peak speed with any rise or low gradient.. 3º to 5º and the 9 teehts dont help.


If you exceed 25km / h the effort is multiplied, to pedal without counting the wind against and also of assistance, added to the position of 90º human and the wheels less rolling and a greater weight does not compensate to put the 9 teeth.

you remove 1 kilo weight to your pedelec and gain 6 seconds for 1 km of ascent with human effort.10km =60 seconds.


Easier for the human and easier for the engine.

The easy way is to remove weight on the wheels and have more torque to distribute at top speed, if you are going to make the pedelec more road and less of MTB is easy ..... tire changes or full solution, change wheel to 28 inches and a very light tire that supports the weight pedelec and user.

The cheapest solution that I forget is to take off one's body weight, lose weight by getting fit if this is possible.


Greetings
 
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#19
My apologies for waking up this older thread. Just wanted to know if the OP every made any changes and the results.

I have the 2017 SDURO Cross 4.0 (with Yamaha PW motor). I am not going to delimit the motor (I may re-think this in the future, but unlikely). I would also like to change the chainring from a 38 to a 44. I would also like a chainring cover (protector?) to fit if possible. When I'm traveling down a slight incline, I'd like to gain more speed with pedal power. With a 38 tooth ring, I'm peddling very fast just to maintain 20mph. I'm thinking a 44 tooth would allow me to pedal at faster speeds with the same cadence of maintaining 20mph right now. There are no major hills to worry about losing at the low end with this change.

I took off the current chainring (see attached picture). Can anyone recommend a 44 tooth that will replace this? And possibly a cover? Thanks for any help!
 

Attachments

Gdogg

New Member
#20
Hi Howardval,I’m the one that started this thread first off I have the sDuro AllMtn not a treckking bike or any other type of Haibike,but all these bikes share common ground. It would be a five minute swap to change out the front ring to a 44 if you look for sDuro mountain bike spares you can get a 44t ring and a chain guard pretty cheap.I ended up changing a lot of stuff on my bike but it’s paid off handsomely and my e-bike is my absolute favourite to ride.De-restriction is a thorny issue and a personal choice,mine is but I use a system where it’s always off until I physically turn it on,I take the view that my car can motor along at legal speeds,but if I ever need a bit of extra power it’s there if I need it.