Who can assist with TSDZ2 troubleshooting and questions.

Bobiam

New Member
Just completed the installation. I'm testing it on a trainer stand and setting up. Have had several snags and wondering who with TSDZ2 experience wants to help.
1. Speed on display keeps jumping to 62.4 mph during testing????? What's with that?
2. Thumb throttle is hit or miss. Sometimes you can hold it half way down and nothing happens.
3. Taillight does not work at all. I had to splice cord shorter. Could I have the polarity backwards and this be the problem???
4. Mode = Europe or Japan. Hey....I live in CT USA. What do I do?
5. What is the 6km/h setting. Choices are off and on. But I don't know what it does!

There are a few more finishing touches on the bike to complete before road testing. Started with a 30 yr old donor.

Thanks........
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
I can comment on the 6km/hr mode. If you enable it, the wheel turns at about that speed, to assist in walking a bike up a steep hill, or maybe stairs. I found it useful mainly for seeing if a motor/controller worked during initial test when I hadn't hooked up or figured out the throttle or PAS connections.

And if you don't put your post in that same thread that was listed above, it probably gets ignored. Beats me. I once asked a question about the TSDZ2 outside the thread and it was ignored.

Not to send you chasing phantoms, but these guys seem pretty down to earth on real TSDZ2 issues as opposed to firmware flashing.
https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/forums/conversion-kits-general-discussion.42/

I once thought I was going to get into that that firmware too, but then I said, that's not fun.
 

Bobiam

New Member
Thanks Henry .
It’s interesting that there are so many forums and Internet videos and articles regarding E bikes. Here in Connecticut, mine is the first one that I’ve ever seen. I guess they have caught on everywhere else in the world first.
 

Triboiler

New Member
Did you get any help on the speed jumping to 63.4 mph?
I started having this problem yesterday, and since it's speed limited to around 26, I get no more assist.
 

Triboiler

New Member
I just adjusted the magnet sensor on the rear wheel to be further away, and mine stopped jumping to 62.4mph.

Hope this helps
 

Bobiam

New Member
Thanks Triboiler.... I did learn that solution a few weeks ago, but it was very sensitive and I haven't the patience for it. I learned from the supplier that the speed sensor has no other function than speedo readouts. Since the bike already has a good Cateye computer on it, I removed the magnet and it's now a joy to ride. At the price of bike computers, that seems like a better way to go.
 
Can the bike still function properly if the sensor is completely removed as well? That would be a whole extra wiring piece that one could be rid of.
 

Bobiam

New Member
Can the bike still function properly if the sensor is completely removed as well? That would be a whole extra wiring piece that one could be rid of.
That's what I've done. I actually just took the sensor of the chainstay and tied it up elsewhere out of the way. Strangely it does not affect the performance of the system if unused, but disturbs the performance if the magnet distance isn't set just perfectly!
 
That's what I've done. I actually just took the sensor of the chainstay and tied it up elsewhere out of the way. Strangely it does not affect the performance of the system if unused, but disturbs the performance if the magnet distance isn't set just perfectly!
Thanks, Bobiam. I've never had an ebike. Good. One less thing to worry about and can be added later if more feedback info is wanted.
 

Bobiam

New Member
Thanks, Bobiam. I've never had an ebike. Good. One less thing to worry about and can be added later if more feedback info is wanted.
BTW, that sensor is a royal PITA the way it fastens to the chainstay. It took me some creativity to make it good . Then removed it anyway!
What sort of a donor bike are you using? Make sure that your chain and cassette are in good shape with no appreciable wear. The motor applies nore torque than you did in the past and skipping teeth is easy with worn parts.
 
Nice that I won't have that now.
I'm looking to get a 500W Bafang geared rear hub motor and I intend to put it on my daughter's rarely used CCM Avenue 700. Below is a pic of the model, not our bike though.
I just managed to break a derailleur pulley wheel on the bike though, so I'm changing that to an old Shimano Rapid Rise derailleur today. I want a stealth bike for a doing lot of mild riding in the city, with some hills, lots of stops and traffic lights. I'm only looking to get some acceleration to less than 20 mph and so that's what I'm using. Installing good brake pads, good lights, reflectors and rear paniers, new slightly wider better tires. Getting rid of at least one cable is good. I'd like to keep the display and buttons setup as minimal as possible as well.
 

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harryS

Well-Known Member
We're getting off topic, but I have a fond spot for ebikeling kits, as he is located in a local Chicago suburb. I've not bought one of his "water proof" kits, but these feature molded cables, similar to what's used on production ebikes. Molded cables minimize the rats nest of wires we can get when we DIY an ebike.

https://www.amazon.com/EBIKELING-Waterproof-Electric-Bicycle-Conversion/dp/B07MG8CGK9/ref=sr_1_31?keywords=ebikeling&qid=1564857443&s=gateway&sr=8-31&th=1&psc=1#customerReviews

I've only used his geared motors, but I have two running at the moment. The LED display is only 3 level PAS, but it does simplify your handlbar layout. I do not have the LCD in the above kit. I had a different LCD in another one of his kits, and it could not show speed when coasting, a bad design oversight.
 
We're getting off topic, but I have a fond spot for ebikeling kits, as he is located in a local Chicago suburb. I've not bought one of his "water proof" kits, but these feature molded cables, similar to what's used on production ebikes. Molded cables minimize the rats nest of wires we can get when we DIY an ebike.

https://www.amazon.com/EBIKELING-Waterproof-Electric-Bicycle-Conversion/dp/B07MG8CGK9/ref=sr_1_31?keywords=ebikeling&qid=1564857443&s=gateway&sr=8-31&th=1&psc=1#customerReviews

I've only used his geared motors, but I have two running at the moment. The LED display is only 3 level PAS, but it does simplify your handlbar layout. I do not have the LCD in the above kit. I had a different LCD in another one of his kits, and it could not show speed when coasting, a bad design oversight.
Thanks for posting your appreciation of these. I'm liking the look of ebikeling kits, even though I'm in Canada and the motor choices do not include exactly what I was looking for (500W geared rear hub and 48V). I overlooked previous mention. I'll inquire further there.
 

bascherz

Member
I had the same issue with the speed sensor. I just rotated it downward on the chainstay to increase the gap and that eliminated the insane behavior of the controller. Interesting that disconnecting it works too, but I do want the speed readout on the display as I removed my old cyclometer due to lack of handlebar real estate.

The other thing I had to contend with was the derailleur cables on my bike both routed through a plastic guide mounted under the bottom bracket. The rear cable guide profile was too high and blocked the motor being inserted. The screw holding it also protruded into the crank housing (weird), also blocking the motor. So I had to cut the guide in half, rotate it so the lower-profile front derailleur guide was on the right side, and use a shorter screw. Not much of a gap between the motor housing and bottom bracket, but enough. This is on a Giant Cypress LX.
 

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Bobiam

New Member
I had the same issue with the speed sensor. I just rotated it downward on the chainstay to increase the gap and that eliminated the insane behavior of the controller. Interesting that disconnecting it works too, but I do want the speed readout on the display as I removed my old cyclometer due to lack of handlebar real estate.

The other thing I had to contend with was the derailleur cables on my bike both routed through a plastic guide mounted under the bottom bracket. The rear cable guide profile was too high and blocked the motor being inserted. The screw holding it also protruded into the crank housing (weird), also blocking the motor. So I had to cut the guide in half, rotate it so the lower-profile front derailleur guide was on the right side, and use a shorter screw. Not much of a gap between the motor housing and bottom bracket, but enough. This is on a Giant Cypress LX.
I went thru the same hell with my shifter cables. Then finally learned that there is no reason to have this dirt snagging thing under there anyway. Just replace your shifter cables and apply full sheathing without any breaks or exposed cables and you can reroute them anyway you like! Sorry I couldn't discuss this with you earlier.
 

bascherz

Member
I went thru the same hell with my shifter cables. Then finally learned that there is no reason to have this dirt snagging thing under there anyway. Just replace your shifter cables and apply full sheathing without any breaks or exposed cables and you can reroute them anyway you like! Sorry I couldn't discuss this with you earlier.
I may eventually do this since the motor anti-rotation bracket didn't fit my frame and I just have a blob of rubber between the motor and downtube keeping the motor housing from crushing that cable. If that cable wasn't there, it wouldn't matter. There is a welded stay at the top of the downtube that makes me like running that cable along that path, though.

Thanks!
 

Bobiam

New Member
I may eventually do this since the motor anti-rotation bracket didn't fit my frame and I just have a blob of rubber between the motor and downtube keeping the motor housing from crushing that cable. If that cable wasn't there, it wouldn't matter. There is a welded stay at the top of the downtube that makes me like running that cable along that path, though.

Thanks!
Cable length doesn't matter much but I'd be sure to use NEW cable and sheath. I'd move it and loose the rubber blob. BTW, on the bike I'm building now (alum Cannondale) tie-down piece of the anti-rotation bracket has to be ground some to fit the mismatch on the frame and give me more screw thread.
You still have a front derailleur??
 

bascherz

Member
Cable length doesn't matter much but I'd be sure to use NEW cable and sheath. I'd move it and loose the rubber blob. BTW, on the bike I'm building now (alum Cannondale) tie-down piece of the anti-rotation bracket has to be ground some to fit the mismatch on the frame and give me more screw thread.
You still have a front derailleur??
Oh no, front derailleur was removed.