X-treme XB-300 Electric Mountain Bike by Farbike

Discussion in 'Help Choosing an Ebike' started by Harry Barkley, Jan 27, 2014.

  1. Ann M.

    Ann M. Administrator

    You might be able to keep the motor, but without info from X-treme's tech (not one of the CSR phone folks) it's a risk. Yes, the controller would need to be changed. The last X-treme ebike we worked on had markings on the controller indicating 24V only. Usually if a controller is rated for multiple Voltages that's clearly labeled on the electronics. Wonder about that battery...its awfully inexpensive. Has me thinking,'Where's the catch' so use your common sense. With that in mind don't overspend on this bike - keep in perspective what it is and that will be less frustrating in the long run. :)
     
  2. MacProTX

    MacProTX New Member

    Good counsel, Ann. I've certainly considered all of the trade-offs. And you're quite correct to be skeptical of bmsbattery.com: prices are good, but customer experience has been mixed, to put it kindly. I've no personal experience, so it's not a recommendation. But given the Chinese heritage of the XB-300li, it's obvious that these battery packs come from the same source, and it certainly appears on the face of it that they'll interchange on the bike without need of a grinder.

    That said, even with a change-out of battery, controller (hope the replacement fits in that little box) and rear wheel motor, that's investing close to $600 in a $600 bike, rarely a wise move. The open question is how much of a performance gain would such an investment net?

    Wish I knew. Wish I could get the info from, like, anywhere. But it's not to be had.

    Range is really not my issue. Obviously, more would be nice, but it wouldn't much change the experience. But a few more mph across the board would have great value to me. Would an upgrade do that? I've found no clear answers to date, and not for lack of looking.

    Still, not unhappy with what I have, so if all I do is risk using bmsbattery.com as a resource to replace OEM parts as needed, it's still worth knowing they're there. I have not found ANY other source for the significant power parts of the X-treme bike products.

    You refer to "info from X-treme's tech" like that's something that could be had...how would I get that?
     
  3. vincent713

    vincent713 Active Member

    If you look closely to the 36v battery from bms, it's different than the stock 300li battery. The bms is a bit wider so it will not fit on the bike. You would have to do some modification on the frame to make it fit. I was thinking about taking apart the stock battery and inserting some lipo battery to make it a 36v system. I don't think you will need to change the motor. I'm pretty sure you will need to change out the controller which shouldn't be hard. They are color coded. I got my 300li & Cemoto bike from www.electrobikeworld.com which sell parts btw and had ask them about this. They said I can use a different battery and place it on the rear rack, then change out the controller. I would like to keep the battery in the same place as it has a good low center of gravity. My Cemoto has a 36v battery and I can easily convert it into a 48v system. I just haven't felt the need yet as it has good amount of power. More power and torque vs the 300Li.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2015
  4. MacProTX

    MacProTX New Member

    Thanks for that, Vincent. It is actually the same width, but by the specs the 36V case is over an inch deeper front to back. I don't think any modification could create enough room between the seat tube and rear wheel to let that happen. I definitely agree about the battery placement and CG; I like this better than just about any other placement I've seen on other bikes, except for a few of the high-end, fancy, pricey e-bikes which use a proprietary form factor unit in the down tubes. Your idea of re-using the original case has occurred to me, as well, but I'm not sure I want to undertake that level of labor, nor the responsibility for upgrading the BMS, etc. If it can't be upgraded with plug and play parts replacements, I'll probably just stick with OEM specs and replace any parts as and when needed.

    It's a shame, really, when considering what this bike could be with a 48V battery, a 750W+ motor, and a more sophisticated pedaling assist system. It's a shame that bikes starting with that kind of spec are so grossly overpriced for no really good reason.
     
  5. vincent713

    vincent713 Active Member

    MacProTX - I've seen ebikes with 48v battery running a 250 & 350 watt motor. Again my Cemoto 36v bike running the same 300watt motor is a big difference compare to my 300Li Trail Maker. There is a stronger kick and torque when you twist the throttle and you get up to top speed quicker so upgrading your bike to a 36v or 48v is definitely worth it. You could install a bigger battery on the down tube which wouldn't be so bad. Like this one
    https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/728-48v8ah-bottle-09-e-bike-battery-charger-battery.html
     
  6. Farbike

    Farbike New Member

    Glad to see all the discussion about the X-treme XB-300li. The XB-300li is now called the trail maker check it out here:

    X-treme Trail Maker for $749

    Save $20 with coupon code: ebike20
     
  7. Farbike

    Farbike New Member

    We are having a huge sale with $45 off all X-treme electric bikes until Christmas. Check out the latest deal here:

    X-treme Trail Climber

    Only $704 with coupon.
     
  8. Chinakat168

    Chinakat168 New Member

    Theres nothing bad to say about the X-Treme Trail Maker E-bike. Only thing bad but doesn't really matter to me. For Some people I guess is a problem. No big thing to me. I can charge with the seat post on
     
  9. Paul Heckmann

    Paul Heckmann New Member

    Greetings - first post. Bought a new Trailmaker. I have most of the items tweaked after the second ride. Seat post is still a little wobbly so I have to figure that one out.

    My question - the PAS seems to go on and off. Its fully charged, the key is ON. I ride for a 100 feet or so and the PAS shuts off. Then it may or may not come back on. I can cut the key back OFF and ON and the on/off PAS cycle starts again.

    My bad knees need this assist occasionally so I spent the extra bucks on a PAS bike. What am I doing wrong?
     
  10. harryS

    harryS Active Member

    Intermittent PAS on a new bike should be handled by the place that sold you the bike.

    They will probably ask you to see if the sensor disk is loose. Look around the crank pedals for a round plastic plate with magnets embeded in it. You shpuld see where they pass across a sensor. Just ensure that the disk isn't flopping around loose on the axle. If it can be moved, then it should be positioned close to the sensor.

    Follow the cable from the sensor. If it goes into a connector, make sure the connector is tight.
     
  11. Paul Heckmann

    Paul Heckmann New Member

    Thanks, I'll give that a shot today
     
  12. Paul Heckmann

    Paul Heckmann New Member

    As far as I can tell, the magnet must be inside the sealed rear wheel hub. The wires go to the post of the axle, then disappear into the middle. Forgive me if I am missing something obvious. I'm a total ebike novice here

    20170917_085907.jpg 20170917_085916.jpg 20170917_085939.jpg 20170917_085949.jpg
     
  13. Paul Heckmann

    Paul Heckmann New Member

    Pulled the battery, wiped down the connectors, checked the lights on top, checked the charge - all okay. Same thing on a short ride this AM. Its like the battery is not holding the charge although the charger tells me different. It goes green in a few minutes.

    It worked for about 100 feet, then shut off. Turned the key OFF, then ON and it worked again for a few feet.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2017
  14. harryS

    harryS Active Member

    This is what a basic PAS sensor looks like. Wheel and sensor.
    P8105955.JPG

    I think I see the wheel behind your crank sprocket? The round metal parts are magnets. There would be a sensor that picks up the magnetic fields as it spins.

    I would try this .... Support the frame so the rear wheel can spin free. Spin the pedals and see if the motor starts up. If it does, keep spinning the pedals in a steady cadence and see if the wheel keeps spinning.

    Does this bike have a throttle too? Does it also stop if you try to ride with throttle only?
     
  15. Paul Heckmann

    Paul Heckmann New Member

    Found the sensor and magnets. They were slightly askew. Set them back parallel. Unfortunately no change - tried various widths of sensor depth with similar results.

    I tried your suggestion to support the frame. Motor did not start when I spun the wheel with the PAS on. However, it did start up every time I throttled it, cut PAS on and off. But it didnt do this yesterday after I adjusted the sensor and actually rode it. I'm going to take it out again today and see if there is any difference after a long charge (wanted to make sure I didnt get a false green light)

    I have messages into the dealer and to Xtreme. I'll pass the results on when I get them.
     
  16. rich c

    rich c Active Member

    It would have been easier for everyone to help if you hadn't hidden this post on the end of another, plus stuck it in help choosing an ebike. You might consider starting over with the post. As far as helping, the magnets and sensor should be almost touching. Get them as close as you can without it touching. Put a little mark on the magnet disc, and the mount to see if the disc is slipping when you ride. Do you have a display with settings on it? The display should tell you the battery level status. Does the bike have a throttle? You might have a faulty controller. It may be overheating and shutting down. Also the contacts for the battery may be clean, but could also be out of alignment and loosing contact over bumps.
     
  17. Mark Peralta

    Mark Peralta Well-Known Member

    When did you buy the ebike and how many miles have you ridden already. If you can borrow another battery it can quickly tell you if your battery is bad. It appears that your battery is shut.
     
  18. Paul Heckmann

    Paul Heckmann New Member

    BTW - there was a strange part left over after assembly. It looks like it should to on the front yoke but that was pre-assembled. Its about the size of a silver dollar. Just a pinch over a millimeter
    Just got the bike last week, this on/off thing was going from day one. Lights on the top show good. and the charger starts red, then goes green in just a few minutes. Dont know anyone that has anything similar to this as far as borrowing a battery. Waiting to hear back from bike seller and also mfgr. thanks for the reply.
     
  19. Paul Heckmann

    Paul Heckmann New Member

    Disc doesnt appear to be slipping, just took it on a short rid around the block to check. Thanks for the note.
     
  20. Mark Peralta

    Mark Peralta Well-Known Member

    Probably you had a bad battery to begin with. Have the battery tested to determine it's true capacity.