Recent content by claucXC

I'm in El Segundo, CA.

Brand new battery and charger. Bought with the intention of getting an older ebike working but decided to get an all new ebike instead. Battery retails for $580 at ebike marketplace and the charger retails for $50. Asking $400. Prefer local sale but will ship. Buyer pays shipping. Battery...

You can use the meter on the top of the battery to get approximate charge levels, correct? If that's the case, I can definitely live without this info on the panel. Looks like my 2014 Peak is going to get a new lease on life!

@gadgetguy, thanks for being the guinea pig here! I have also been looking at options other than the OEM battery for my Izip E3 Peak. Other than the battery level and distance to empty not working on the display, is there anything else that doesn't work? i.e. odometer, speed, assist level...

@franckler , I installed a 44T chainring on my Peak about 5 months ago. So far it has been working well. I get a few more mph top speed and it doesn't feel like it is laboring much more than when I had the stock chainring on. I just try to make sure I'm in a suitable gear when I have to stop...

If you can live with the looks, the E3 Peak will go 28mph +. You can probably find a 2014 model for mid $2k. I've had mine for about a year now and mechanically it's been pretty solid. I've just needed to keep up on the derailleur adjustments...and I got better brake pads for commuting...

My fitness tracker app shows a little over 400' elevation gain. Not a lot but there are numerous smaller hills getting to that number and getting back down. This is PV Drive North BTW.

My commute is just about half of what yours will be and I ride what sounds like a portion of the same route. I have an Izip E3 Peak and I use PAS level 3 (out of 5) for the ride into work the whole way. I consume about 40% of the battery just going through the hills and I end up with about 20%...

Update: Looks like it was the B-screw. Adjusted it closer to the cassette and haven't had the skipping in the highest gear yet! I think the chain is grabbing more of the few teeth it can when on the 11 tooth cog. Funny thing is I haven't touched the B-screw since I got the bike. Maybe the...

^^^^ This.

Ya, this bike is definitely not for beginners because they'll chew up their drivetrains pretty quickly! I use a technique where I slightly engage the rear brake just enough to activate the motor cut off switch then shift so that I'm not straining the drivetrain. There's a delay of about a half...

Thanks for the info. I don't have a chain wear tool but I'll see if the LBS can check it for me. Here is the chain that came with the bike: http://www.kmcchain.com Seems pretty stout but I do have around 1400 miles on it.

It seems like I'm only getting around 80-100 miles before things are out of whack again. Sometimes it's my highest gear that acts up under load (which is not good for drive train longevity) and others is the lower gears not wanting to go back into the next higher gear. I'm wondering if it's the...

Update: I purchased a set of Kool Stop e-bike specific pads (P/N KS-D735E) and they work much better than the stock pads. I guess Currietech sized the brakes and pads with a bias towards soft (dirt) surfaces, which makes sense, but carrying a stronger pad such as the Kool Stop listed above as...

The shop told me they bled the brakes and replaced the pads on the first visit. The brakes felt mildly better but quickly got soft again. If I knew for a fact it was just a matter of re-bleeding the brakes I would demand the service center do that and witnesses it...but I don't. That's why I'm...