1,000-Mile review of 700 ST

CashMoney

Member
My wife's Ride1Up 700 ST recently turned 1,000 miles on the odometer, so I’d thought I’d post a long-term review.

She commutes to work with it, about 9 miles round trip, through the mild hills of Atlanta with one steep hill (I've seen the display show a max speed of 32 mph!). Garage-kept at home, usually parked out of the rain at work. She rides in the rain, even hit a few downpours on the way home. We don't do anything to dry out the bike or battery, just park it in the garage.

I ordered it on Jan. 17, 2020, and it arrived on Jan. 24, 2020. The brake light was broken in the box, and Ride1Up sent a replacement right away. Assembled it myself, and found that the threaded boss on the front fork for the brake cable clamp screw was stripped. Ride1Up suggested using a longer screw, and offered to reimburse me for it, but I declined. I was able to run a thread tap in the hole and use a longer screw. I checked the spokes with a tension gauge, but they did not need adjusting, as I recall.

We added a few accessories; lights, pannier bags (Rhinowalk brand, from Amazon. Attached with zip-ties), Kryptonite Evolution 1016 bike chain lock, and mud flaps to extend the fender coverage (Portland Design Works polypropylene 650 Beast). I added Slime to the tires, and we’ve had no flats.

In late February, the brake sensors that cut off the motor when the brakes are applied started acting up. Got the Error 25 code. Ride1Up sent me a video with repair steps to try. But a couple weeks later, it acted up again. Ride1Up suggested replacing the magnet and sent me a new one. In the process of replacing it, I found that the magnet on each brake lever was not well-secured (seems like the adhesive failed). I glued them back with Gorilla glue, adjust them, and no problems since.

In early April, the front wheel starting making a whining sound. On the disc side of the hub, the rubber cover that helps seal the bearing was making the sound, and there were little bits of rubber between it and the hub. I greased both dust covers with some Super Lube PTFE and the noise has not returned. But when replacing the front wheel, I found that one the threaded holes for the brake caliper bolts was stripped out. I had always used a torque wrench on the bike. Ride1Up was generous and offered to reimburse me for a Heli-coil to repair the stripped hole, so I did that. Easy repair, and they reimbursed me immediately.

In late April, my wife complained about the shifting. I tried to tune it up, but it seemed like the derailleur was bent. I checked the derailleur hanger and it seemed straight. But the derailleur looked off. I swapped it out for an Acera from my old analog bike and was able to tune it perfectly. It seems the derailleur got whacked, either in the garage or at the bike rack at work.

So I bought a new Deore derailleur (yes, there is an 9/8/7 speed Deore derailleur. It may be a discontinued model, but it is available; Shimano Deore M591SGS LongCage 9Sp. And yes, a 9-speed derailleur is also used for 8 and 7 speed drivetrains.). I also replaced the chain with a KMC X8.99/X8 chain. The Deore is a much better derailleur than the Acera. It installed and tuned up easily. I had to trim the shifter cable and housing an inch or two.

In May, my wife dropped the bike, and the left-side brake lever broke. Actually broke at the “collar” part that clamps around the bar, not the lever itself. I temporarily fixed it with JB Weld epoxy, ordered a new lever assembly and brake bleed kit, but I have yet to replace the lever. The JB Weld is holding up just fine.

In July, I replaced the rear brake pads and rotor. The pads had worn down to the metal and scored the rotor a bit. But the front pads looked fine. My wife denies this, but I think she may be using the rear brake a bit more or harder than the front.

At some point, my wife claimed that it seemed the PAS setting was changing on its own. I tried to replicate it (she said it was happening on hills) but I couldn’t. It only happened a couple times though.

The bike has worked out great for us. I bought a used 2017 Rad City at the same time we got the 700, and it’s clear that the 700 is a better bike.

As far as charging, we try to charge to 80 or 90%, but sometimes we forget and let it charge all night. My wife uses the battery percentage display, and she notes that the battery drain is not linear (from 100 to 80% takes longer than 70 to 50%, for example). Only once has it dropped to 30%. But she does not have a long commute.
 

rchenail

Member
great write up. You know your way around a bike. Did you assembled it yourself or a shop for the warranty. I did the assembly and really not worried about having it inspected. Everything is torqued to specs and have not any issues whatsoever.
 

Mike N.

Active Member
REI seems to have the best price for the Shimano Deore M591SGS at 48.00 plus tax and in store pickup. Most other places are out of stock and a higher price. Nice write up. I have a LMT'D but for $1500.00 the 700 for a entry level E-bike it has a good range with the 14 amp battery, fenders, lights, Schwalbe tires. It is a real bargain.
 

Asher

Well-Known Member
Nice write-up. It's good nothing here really stopped her from riding, but that is way too much stuff going wrong for a direct sales brand if it wants to be mass market. (I'm not referring to the damage from user error, eg dropping the bike.) Hopefully Ride1Up is improving things; you had an early version of that bike, so it's very possible.
 

Bikeman

Member
Thank you for the update. I’ve had my bike for 28 days and I’m coming up on 700 miles so you’re just ahead of me.

Before I bought my bike, I bought a Deore derailer also, but since mine shifts perfect, I never put it on. My bike shifted perfect right out of the box.
 

tlippy

Active Member
This is a post by someone who doesn't even own a R1U bike that I want to disprove :

"No it’s fact. The bike (700) has very cheap parts and not even an bafang motor. 1000 bikes have to be made cheaply since batteries are expensive. Mid drives have far more power because they use the drive train. But hey it’s your money spend it how you will.
The RU is a hub drive bike with really cheap components and it looks like some generic battery. it only has a cadence sensor the turbo (Specialized Turbo Vado SL 4.0 EQ @ $3500) is a light weight road bike made for light assistance use but would still have far more torque since it is a mid drive. its like a yugo and a mid priced car"


Personally I believe if my 700 had a Trek or Specialized logo, it would be priced at $4000. The quality of my 700 is extreme. From the luggage rack to the fenders to the welds - all exude quality. As far as the Shengyi motor being not equal to a Bafang? Unproven hype !! I don't find any complaints about either motor. I even printed some business cards that I hand out to everyone who asks where did I get the bike. I have a friend who bought a Dost for $2800. The Dost uses Altus which is one step lower than our Acera. From the pics it looks like the Dost is a copy of my 700 - even though they come from Canada. This is a purchase I have no qualms about. I am even offering assistance to anyone in my neighborhood who buys a R1U bike assistance in assembly.
 
Regarding the squeaky front wheel - my front wheel was also squeaky. The cone nuts were too tight. You will need at least one cone wrench (don't ask me what size) because the inner nut is thin. Soon as I adjusted it, it stopped squeaking.
 

RJRCO

New Member
My wife's Ride1Up 700 ST recently turned 1,000 miles on the odometer, so I’d thought I’d post a long-term review.

She commutes to work with it, about 9 miles round trip, through the mild hills of Atlanta with one steep hill (I've seen the display show a max speed of 32 mph!). Garage-kept at home, usually parked out of the rain at work. She rides in the rain, even hit a few downpours on the way home. We don't do anything to dry out the bike or battery, just park it in the garage.

I ordered it on Jan. 17, 2020, and it arrived on Jan. 24, 2020. The brake light was broken in the box, and Ride1Up sent a replacement right away. Assembled it myself, and found that the threaded boss on the front fork for the brake cable clamp screw was stripped. Ride1Up suggested using a longer screw, and offered to reimburse me for it, but I declined. I was able to run a thread tap in the hole and use a longer screw. I checked the spokes with a tension gauge, but they did not need adjusting, as I recall.

We added a few accessories; lights, pannier bags (Rhinowalk brand, from Amazon. Attached with zip-ties), Kryptonite Evolution 1016 bike chain lock, and mud flaps to extend the fender coverage (Portland Design Works polypropylene 650 Beast). I added Slime to the tires, and we’ve had no flats.

In late February, the brake sensors that cut off the motor when the brakes are applied started acting up. Got the Error 25 code. Ride1Up sent me a video with repair steps to try. But a couple weeks later, it acted up again. Ride1Up suggested replacing the magnet and sent me a new one. In the process of replacing it, I found that the magnet on each brake lever was not well-secured (seems like the adhesive failed). I glued them back with Gorilla glue, adjust them, and no problems since.

In early April, the front wheel starting making a whining sound. On the disc side of the hub, the rubber cover that helps seal the bearing was making the sound, and there were little bits of rubber between it and the hub. I greased both dust covers with some Super Lube PTFE and the noise has not returned. But when replacing the front wheel, I found that one the threaded holes for the brake caliper bolts was stripped out. I had always used a torque wrench on the bike. Ride1Up was generous and offered to reimburse me for a Heli-coil to repair the stripped hole, so I did that. Easy repair, and they reimbursed me immediately.

In late April, my wife complained about the shifting. I tried to tune it up, but it seemed like the derailleur was bent. I checked the derailleur hanger and it seemed straight. But the derailleur looked off. I swapped it out for an Acera from my old analog bike and was able to tune it perfectly. It seems the derailleur got whacked, either in the garage or at the bike rack at work.

So I bought a new Deore derailleur (yes, there is an 9/8/7 speed Deore derailleur. It may be a discontinued model, but it is available; Shimano Deore M591SGS LongCage 9Sp. And yes, a 9-speed derailleur is also used for 8 and 7 speed drivetrains.). I also replaced the chain with a KMC X8.99/X8 chain. The Deore is a much better derailleur than the Acera. It installed and tuned up easily. I had to trim the shifter cable and housing an inch or two.

In May, my wife dropped the bike, and the left-side brake lever broke. Actually broke at the “collar” part that clamps around the bar, not the lever itself. I temporarily fixed it with JB Weld epoxy, ordered a new lever assembly and brake bleed kit, but I have yet to replace the lever. The JB Weld is holding up just fine.

In July, I replaced the rear brake pads and rotor. The pads had worn down to the metal and scored the rotor a bit. But the front pads looked fine. My wife denies this, but I think she may be using the rear brake a bit more or harder than the front.

At some point, my wife claimed that it seemed the PAS setting was changing on its own. I tried to replicate it (she said it was happening on hills) but I couldn’t. It only happened a couple times though.

The bike has worked out great for us. I bought a used 2017 Rad City at the same time we got the 700, and it’s clear that the 700 is a better bike.

As far as charging, we try to charge to 80 or 90%, but sometimes we forget and let it charge all night. My wife uses the battery percentage display, and she notes that the battery drain is not linear (from 100 to 80% takes longer than 70 to 50%, for example). Only once has it dropped to 30%. But she does not have a long commute.
Since you have had your 700 for a while, I have an almost new 700 XR, and bent the rear tire rim. I can not find a replacement rim, and hoping you may be able to help me. Ride1Up says they only have the entire rear assembly $4XX! I bought a Halo SAS 90082-219673(27.5", 36 holes) but the spoke holes are too small! the Hub requires a 12g spoke. Please help if you can. Thank you.
 

CashMoney

Member
Since you have had your 700 for a while, I have an almost new 700 XR, and bent the rear tire rim. I can not find a replacement rim, and hoping you may be able to help me. Ride1Up says they only have the entire rear assembly $4XX! I bought a Halo SAS 90082-219673(27.5", 36 holes) but the spoke holes are too small! the Hub requires a 12g spoke. Please help if you can. Thank you.
Sorry, I can't help you. One idea might be to use the front rim on the rear wheel, and replace the front rim with either the one you bought or one that has the right-sized spoke holes. Not sure if the spoke holes can be safely drilled out to a larger diameter, or if you can get nipples that fit. I know that there is a lot I don't know about wheel building, but there is a lot of information out there that might help you.
 

RJRCO

New Member
Sorry, I can't help you. One idea might be to use the front rim on the rear wheel, and replace the front rim with either the one you bought or one that has the right-sized spoke holes. Not sure if the spoke holes can be safely drilled out to a larger diameter, or if you can get nipples that fit. I know that there is a lot I don't know about wheel building, but there is a lot of information out there that might help you.
Thank you. The rim I purchased has grommeted spoke holes, that would likely fall out if I tried to drill them, then they would be too big. The idea of swapping out the front to back, may work, but I think the rear spokes are larger than the front ones on the 700. I think the 700 is a good bike, but I am beginning to regret purchasing an eBike with no replacement parts. Thanks again for your help.