1st e-bike conversion, talk me up, or talk me down!

zzRider

Member
No doubt. No doubt. I do tend to delay gratification while I analyze a toy purchase/project to death, but I also find that that's all part of the fun of toys. Should I die before I obtain an e-bike my afterlife garage is already adequately stocked.

Having another look at the bike, anyone think a decent 48v battery might fit behind the seat post? Hadn't considered that placement. I measured the seat tube from the lower top tube to the bottom bracket, and it's a meagre 12". Looks like I'd gain an inch or two flipping the battery around back.
If you are still considering battery mounting options, I used these clamps on the Schwinn Meridian trike that I converted to electric. A couple of bucks each at Home Depot/Lowes. I used some padding around the tube to avoid paint damage.

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Dewey

Well-Known Member
Thanks Dewy
It seems to be a little more complex than I first thought.Not sure where these tabs would go, need to study up more. In the mean time I'll just be very careful.
In order to put disk on front will I need a new wheel to mount the disk to? I don't want to build a new wheel.
A 6-bolt brake rotor bolts onto a disk brake wheel hub and I read the spokes are shorter that side, so you would need a new wheel
 

JES2020

Member
my bike has a lower power 350w BBS01 and rim brakes, I’m about to pick it up from my local bike shop who have built a new front wheel with a drum brake hub, I’m keeping the rear rim brake, so I can have an all weather commuter, should work fine for Class 2 speeds. The price I think is about $260
Drum brakes on bikes ! How things have changed.
I like the idea of front disks, looks like a new wheel, ready for disks is pretty inexpensive.
I assume I still need to braze tabs onto the front fork?
I only ride in good weather so a disk upgrade should be fine for me.
 

Clyde

Member
So I have a terrible idea.

How about I pick up this 52v, 12ah pack (or something similar) https://lunacycle.com/52v-samsung-30q-12ah-high-power/ which measures 11.5"x3.5"x3.5" and built it a cage that would mount on the seat tube brazeons inside the frame? I'm thinking of using bent steel rod to construct a bottom portion that would support the weight of the battery and mount to the brazeons, maybe 1.5-2" high, then a second section which would be removable with the battery, and lock to the bottom section. This would enclose the shrink-wrapped battery in a steel frame (I'd likely dip it in rubber and add a couple of shock absorbing neoprene pads) when attached to the bike, and the brazeon attachment allen bolts would be inaccessible when the battery was locked in. Wouldn't stop a dedicated thief, but I think it would dissuade kiddies.

But is it okay to expose a shrink-wrapped battery like that? I don't plan on riding in the rain, but sometimes rain happens. Is there a reason that a skeletal frame enclosure is a bad idea?
 

Clyde

Member
If you are still considering battery mounting options, I used these clamps on the Schwinn Meridian trike that I converted to electric. A couple of bucks each at Home Depot/Lowes. I used some padding around the tube to avoid paint damage.

View attachment 57294
That looks solid, but I'm resisting the whole fish-battery-on-the-downtube solution with all my might. There has to be a better way, but will I be the one to find it?
 

JES2020

Member
So I have a terrible idea.

How about I pick up this 52v, 12ah pack (or something similar) https://lunacycle.com/52v-samsung-30q-12ah-high-power/ which measures 11.5"x3.5"x3.5" and built it a cage that would mount on the seat tube brazeons inside the frame? I'm thinking of using bent steel rod to construct a bottom portion that would support the weight of the battery and mount to the brazeons, maybe 1.5-2" high, then a second section which would be removable with the battery, and lock to the bottom section. This would enclose the shrink-wrapped battery in a steel frame (I'd likely dip it in rubber and add a couple of shock absorbing neoprene pads) when attached to the bike, and the brazeon attachment allen bolts would be inaccessible when the battery was locked in. Wouldn't stop a dedicated thief, but I think it would dissuade kiddies.

But is it okay to expose a shrink-wrapped battery like that? I don't plan on riding in the rain, but sometimes rain happens. Is there a reason that a skeletal frame enclosure is a bad idea?
A battery that size should be pretty easy to cage, especially on the seat tube.
I think you are going to want to protect the batteries with more than shrink wrap, if they get punctured in a fall or what ever your going to have a bicycle barbecue ! Complete with jets of flame shooting out at thousands of degrees !
Chestnuts roasting on an open flame la la la : )

The triangle battery I'm getting is quite a bit bigger and a triangle : )
I'll need to put a little more work into a cage.

Ya know you got me thinking about electrifying the bike...a person could make a simple motion trigger, step down the amps and anyone touching the frame or lock gets a new hairdo!
Kids don't attempt this at home!
 

Thomas Jaszewski

Well-Known Member
So I have a terrible idea.

How about I pick up this 52v, 12ah pack (or something similar) https://lunacycle.com/52v-samsung-30q-12ah-high-power/ which measures 11.5"x3.5"x3.5" and built it a cage that would mount on the seat tube brazeons inside the frame? I'm thinking of using bent steel rod to construct a bottom portion that would support the weight of the battery and mount to the brazeons, maybe 1.5-2" high, then a second section which would be removable with the battery, and lock to the bottom section. This would enclose the shrink-wrapped battery in a steel frame (I'd likely dip it in rubber and add a couple of shock absorbing neoprene pads) when attached to the bike, and the brazeon attachment allen bolts would be inaccessible when the battery was locked in. Wouldn't stop a dedicated thief, but I think it would dissuade kiddies.

But is it okay to expose a shrink-wrapped battery like that? I don't plan on riding in the rain, but sometimes rain happens. Is there a reason that a skeletal frame enclosure is a bad idea?
Cheap Chinese battery. Buy from Unit Pack Power for a better warranty.
 

Dewey

Well-Known Member
I still need to braze tabs onto the front fork?
By its nature brazing will remove the paintwork around that area so depending on your comfort level about respraying the fork to a matching color you might prefer to simply swap out for a new disk-ready fork. Fork + wheel + brake assembly you're probably looking at a $600 upgrade if you decide to go down that path, less if you do the work yourself.
 

Clyde

Member
Been a lot of years since I've fallen off a bike. I'm thinking a 3/8 cage of steel bars would offer as much protection in that scenario as an aluminum or plastic box? Jets of flame does sound contraindicated...

Didn't see a battery in those dimensions at UPP. The Luna pack uses Samsung 30q cells unless they're lying.
 

JES2020

Member
By its nature brazing will remove the paintwork around that area so depending on your comfort level about respraying the fork to a matching color you might prefer to simply swap out for a new disk-ready fork. Fork + wheel + brake assembly you're probably looking at a $600 upgrade if you decide to go down that path, less if you do the work yourself.
$600? Ummm yeah, I paid $800 for the whole kit. So I would do it myself.
Already found a front fork kit with disk brake kit for very little $.
Just need to find out what my Trek 830 requires, or if it's an option at all .
I assume there are a lot of variables to consider?
I just had a brain storm to solve all the braking issues....grappling hook !
 
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JES2020

Member
Been a lot of years since I've fallen off a bike. I'm thinking a 3/8 cage of steel bars would offer as much protection in that scenario as an aluminum or plastic box? Jets of flame does sound contraindicated...

Didn't see a battery in those dimensions at UPP. The Luna pack uses Samsung 30q cells unless they're lying.
LOL yeah, jets of flame near the neather regions not what the Dr ordered.
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
$600? Ummm yeah, I paid $800 for the whole kit. So I would do it myself.
Already found a front fork kit with disk brake kit for very little $.
Just need to find out what my Trek 830 requires, or if it's an option at all .
I assume there are a lot of variables to consider?
Did you say Trek 830 Antelope, from the early 1990's? I had it hanging from the garage rafters for years until 2015 when I installed a $200 rear motor kit and a $280 36V10Ah battery from elifebike on ebay, now grown to become U.P.P. (Unit Pack Power).

The original Trek brakes were horriible, but I think a lot of that was friction in the rusty cable sheaths, I replaced the cables, sheath, and switched to cantilever brakes. Here's my $500 ebike, make that $550 because I bought a new front wheel. Cr-Moly frame. No torque arms were used. I found the rear fender on the bike path. Re-used it.

This by the way was my first ebike conversion. Original (hard) seat.

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No flat tires, so I've never had the motor off. Later that summer, I "upgraded" to a cheap RC Capa suspension fork ($50). It raised the front of the bike 5 inches, and now I can barely dismount the bike.

This next pic is stealth mode. The cradle for the Dolphin pack is still on the frame, but I'm using two 36V4ah scooter packs in the bag. They cost me $25 each. I can go 25 miles on that. In this configuration, it's a $300 ebike. And even though the fork and wheel will take a disk, and I have the spare rotor and calipers, the brakes are good enough that I chose not to put them on. Like any 36V motor, it maxes out around 20 mph.

P1040307.JPG
 

Dewey

Well-Known Member
What a beauty! Those drum brakes are super clean! Is that a horn hanging below the display?
Tool bag, but with the Grin Tech DC splitter I now have a spare 36v DC Jack I could use for a horn. Thanks, I need to work on my cable management. Rear hub is a Nexus 8 IGH so I’m keeping the rim brake for now although I have the option to fit a roller brake. Debuting on tomorrow mornings commute to work! I’ve read it can take a couple hundred miles for a new drum to rough up the pad.
 

JES2020

Member
Did you say Trek 830 Antelope, from the early 1990's? I had it hanging from the garage rafters for years until 2015 when I installed a $200 rear motor kit and a $280 36V10Ah battery from elifebike on ebay, now grown to become U.P.P. (Unit Pack Power).

The original Trek brakes were horriible, but I think a lot of that was friction in the rusty cable sheaths, I replaced the cables, sheath, and switched to cantilever brakes. Here's my $500 ebike, make that $550 because I bought a new front wheel. Cr-Moly frame. No torque arms were used. I found the rear fender on the bike path. Re-used it.

This by the way was my first ebike conversion. Original (hard) seat.

View attachment 57333

No flat tires, so I've never had the motor off. Later that summer, I "upgraded" to a cheap RC Capa suspension fork ($50). It raised the front of the bike 5 inches, and now I can barely dismount the bike.

This next pic is stealth mode. The cradle for the Dolphin pack is still on the frame, but I'm using two 36V4ah scooter packs in the bag. They cost me $25 each. I can go 25 miles on that. In this configuration, it's a $300 ebike. And even though the fork and wheel will take a disk, and I have the spare rotor and calipers, the brakes are good enough that I chose not to put them on. Like any 36V motor, it maxes out around 20 mph.

View attachment 57334
I just checked, mine is an 830 Mountain Track, so I don't know if the Capras would fit, but I want a set! Guess I'll take it to a bike shop, so I can match up to my bike. What do you need to know for matching suspension?

Now that I know what cantilever brakes are, I found them on my bike already ! So maybe I'm good for a while.

Also found what looks like torque arms on the front wheel set, does that mean it used to be electric???
Like you I had my bike hanging in the garage for at least 10 years.

How many watt hours are you running with the dual battery pack? Looks like you could ride for days on a charge : )
 

Clyde

Member
Busy weekend. The DeadEye 27.5 with the 19" frame and 27.5x2.8 wheelset arrived, and I built both bikes and transferred the wheels and the cool chain tensioners for the dropouts to the 29. Took a $10 hit reselling the 27.5 on Craigslist, as the guy wanted it for his son, and I'm a softy who won't profiteer during a global crisis. The Sturmey Archer RS-RK3 is on its way, along with an entirely too fancy double kickstand.

I also found a place in PA that rebuilds tool batteries, and is willing to spot weld on 18650 cells. I've sent them specs for a 52v 15-17ah pack for a quote (for reference, the Booant pack from Alibaba with the LG 3400 mAh cells is $401 delivered). Also picked up this beauty to mod into a battery box on Wednesday: https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/products/honeywell-deluxe-steel-cash-box-6113.htm Any thoughts? Plan to line the interior with something non-conductive and cut down one corner so it fits the approx. 240x150x70x200x45x70mm battery nice and snug.
 

JES2020

Member
Busy weekend. The DeadEye 27.5 with the 19" frame and 27.5x2.8 wheelset arrived, and I built both bikes and transferred the wheels and the cool chain tensioners for the dropouts to the 29. Took a $10 hit reselling the 27.5 on Craigslist, as the guy wanted it for his son, and I'm a softy who won't profiteer during a global crisis. The Sturmey Archer RS-RK3 is on its way, along with an entirely too fancy double kickstand.

I also found a place in PA that rebuilds tool batteries, and is willing to spot weld on 18650 cells. I've sent them specs for a 52v 15-17ah pack for a quote (for reference, the Booant pack from Alibaba with the LG 3400 mAh cells is $401 delivered). Also picked up this beauty to mod into a battery box on Wednesday: https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/products/honeywell-deluxe-steel-cash-box-6113.htm Any thoughts? Plan to line the interior with something non-conductive and cut down one corner so it fits the approx. 240x150x70x200x45x70mm battery nice and snug.
Wow, you are doing a lot more work than I did and I was impatient to get my kit. I finished it in about 3-4 hours, boy did I learn a lot !Still have to make a cage for the battery...that box you got is a steal at $40 especially with all that cash in it !
I thought you were going with a triangle battery.

On my first test run in my yard I almost got thrown off, it wanted to pop a wheelie so fast.
I took it on the street and got it up to 29mph. As a long time motorcycle rider, I already want MORE POWER!!
Looking at swapping out the 48v 20ah 38 BMS for a 52v 20 ah 40 BMS for the 1500w 52v geared hub motor...not sure how much that will help.
Here's a pic of the ruff install. no ties no controller case no battery cage no kick stand : ).
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