(#8) Some more "junk" info: U-Lock handlebar mount/guard, etc.

Sic Puppy

New Member
ADDENDUM on Jan 10, 2020: Since I now have numerous threads posted (sorry about that), I want to let viewers know their chronological sequence, thus every thread title will begin with (# ).

I now own 3 different models of u-locks;
the On-Guard 8002 (11.5” inside diameter) https://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Bike-Lock-PITBULL-4-53/dp/B005YPKBRI/ref=sr_1_2?
a Bell Catalyst 750 (10” inside diameter) https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Catalyst-750-Bicycle-U-Lock-Security-Level-5-Black/36587928?
and two Kryptonite (9” inside diameter) https://www.walmart.com/ip/Kryptonite-12-7mm-U-Lock-Bicycle-Lock/10370936

I am using “inside diameter” measurements for all 3 u-locks because that is the only distance that really matters.
While the Bell 750 has a satisfactory inside “footprint”, I find its' internal workings to be rather unsettling. Reading reviews of the lock on other websites, I would hate to have it jam while I was out and about-- as it did for a few of those reviewers. And, it does feel shabby on the inside. It may be returned to the store in the near future-- time will tell.
I find the On-Guard 8002 to be much better for my particular situation because I own two fat tire electric bikes (ebikes) in addition to five other bikes (more on the bikes later in this posting).


The 2 fat tire ebikes demand a larger inside diameter footprint from a u-lock. I do not currently use a u-lock on either one for security purposes because they are never used to go to a destination requiring a lock-up.. However, should the need ever arise, I am good to go.. I do keep them installed on the 2 fat tire bikes at the time so that other riders can check the setup/installation of same.
One very peculiar aspect of electric bicycles (ebikes) is their special electronic apparatus. These items take up space in the bikes' frame that would otherwise be available to mount/store the u-lock. However, I have managed to form a thought and, hopefully, solved that problem. Thus, the rather extended following information:https://www.amazon.com/Handlebar-Triathlon-Cycling-Bicycle-Aerobars/dp/B01LW4GANT/ref=pd_ybh_a_6?
First of all, I have this triathlon extension bar system (slightly modified) installed on 3 of my ebikes. It is an excellent item. And, I am very impressed by its' adaptability to my own special purpose: front bumper guard/ handlebar mounting brackets for a U-Lock. After all, nowadays everyone has “junk “ on their handlebar, so they might as well give that junk some crash protection. By using this particular triathlon bar setup (and a variation thereof), I have been able to construct a “handlebar bumper” to protect all those items, electronic and otherwise, mounted on/near my ebikes' command center (the handlebar) in the event of a crash/collision/fall.
The 2 extension bars on this triathlon setup are the same size diameter as the ENDS of your bicycle handlebar (be it 25.4mm or 31.8mm). Both sizes of bicycles handlebars are 25.4mm at the outside (where the hand grips are located). It's just that the 31.8mm bars will expand up to that larger diameter by the center section (where the stem connects), which is why this particular triathlon setup needs to be used-- because of the handlebar mounts ability to be installed on up to a 31.8mm handlebar.
So, if you already own a U-Lock and are curious as to whether it will work OK inside the extension bars tubing, just remove one of the small end caps on your handlebar and try to insert the U-Lock prong. Taa Daa..
I own 7 bikes.. Three are Old School bikes.. Four are electric bikes (ebikes).. With the exception of one most excellent old school roadie bike, the rest are mountain bike-type style. Of the four ebikes, 2 are the fat tire version-- one a hardtail and one a dual-suspension. I refer to both of them as my Mighty Beast(s) because they are..
Since dinking around with the original bumper guard scenario, I eventually formed another thought: What if I used this setup on my 2 grocery-getter ebikes, BUT utilized a U-lock in place of the original triathlon extension bars (two). That way, I could protect my ebikes' “junk” while in motion AND protect my entire ebike when parked (locked up). I am assuming that most ebike owners use a u-lock instead of the totally inadequate “cable” lock (thieves are able to cut through the cable like a strand of spaghetti). I learned a $1,000 lesson back in 2017 because I used a cable lock. Never again.
Perusing the internet, it seems that the usual mounting location for u-lock storage (on the bike) is within the main frame triangle-- not a great location when dealing with an ebike. Personally, I would always haul my 9” u-lock in my backpack/hydration pack. Using that method, I would always need to remove my pack to get access to/store the u-lock. So, now, an improvement has arisen.
My 2 “not fat tire” ebikes have been, as a result of their sub-par capabilities in comparison to the 2 fat tire units, relegated to “grocery getter” status. That means they are ridden to places where there is a likelihood, however slight, of them being STOLEN-- and lets face it, nowadays no location is totally off-limits to theft. To that end, I have always used a U-Lock AND a pair of handcuffs to secure my ebike(s).
One of my U-Lock models is 9” long-- usually only barely enough to secure the ebike rear wheel/frame to whatever post, etc that the u-lock has to wrap around. If being used for a fat tire ebike, this length would be totally unacceptable. Plus, I would always carry it in a backpack, thus requiring removal of the backpack whenever I used/removed it for lock-up.
Recently, I have had yet another situation arise which has allowed me to form another option for part of the triathlon bar combo. This newest combo involves a 11.5” long U-Lock and this triathlon dual bar setup. If you look at the photo's at the end of this posting, you will see all 3 types/lengths of u-locks (the 11.5”, the 10” and the 9”). Notice that the 9” u-bar has a tit at the end of one prong while the other two units are straight at both ends. This difference will have an affect on how you are able to mount your u-lock to the triathlon bar handlebar mount.
You will also notice two different lengths of tubing affixed to the handlebar mounts. They are actually both ends of a single extension bar. They serve to act as braces and also to negate rattling/looseness of the u-lock bars within the handlebar mounts. These 2 items were the original long, slightly bent, bars that came with the triathlon extension unit. The reason for using 2 different lengths is due to the fact that “straight” handlebars are not really straight-- they have a (usually) 6 degree bend. This bend will angle out the far ends of the extension bar tubing, thus possibly preventing a smooth entry/exit of one of the u-lock prongs. So, shorten one tube. Works like a champ..
They have been cut to the sizes shown by using a pipe/tubing cutter https://www.amazon.com/Tubing-Cutter-Copper-Aluminum-Cutting/dp/B07BP4G9C1/ref=sr_1_2? -- it works quick like a bunny and cuts thru the tubing/bar as if it was butter.. An added benefit of this tools “cut” is that it leaves a very small “lip” on the inside of the tubing, thus acting as a “stop” of sorts. So, when experimenting prior to final tubing installation, be sure to factor in this inner lip. You may have to trim off some of the thin rubber tubing that protects the u-lock prongs. This item plays an important part in making an ease-of-operation “no slop-no play” viable. The rubber tubing coated bars on the 11.5” and 10”U-Locks are a snug fit inside the tubes-- not too tight, but definitely snug.. A good thing.
A straight bar down both sides of the u-lock allows this particular method. It you use a u-lock like the bent tipped 9” u-lock, you can still use a long tube on one side (the straight bar side). As for the bent tip side; the tip needs to pass thru the handlebar mount so you cannot use the tubing bar on one side. After that section passes thru, you can push the entire u-bar (including the opposite side straight bar) on thru the mounts. As far as excess “play” on the bent tip side, you can use rubber tubing, duct tape wrapping, etc farther up along that sides bar-- as long as the tip itself has the ability to pass inside the mounts hole unrestricted. A piece of cake. The easiest installation direction is to have the crossbar (key lock unit) end up at the very front of the bike (as shown in the photo), but the option is up to you. Also, no matter which type u-lock is used, it is okay to offset the mounts to the left-of-center to be able to more easily see the right side rear shifter indicator window. You can even mount 2 U-Locks (see photo's).
When you initially install the handlebar mounts, just affix all the bolts snugly, but NOT tightly, since there will be a certain amount of adjustment needed, both left and right/up and down. Also, these mounts are 100% metal. No plastics at all.. A solid connection.. I use carbon fiber handlebars on most of my bikes so I wrap duct tape/plastic tape around the area where the mounting brackets will be located to protect the finish AND to provide “friction” for the mounting hardware to grip onto...

NEXT UP: The whistle from Hell..We all know that using a dingle bell or a whistle is a great method of communicating your presence to others. However, sometimes a more “authoritative” aural method is deemed to be more appropriate. To this end, I present the SIREN (aka the home alarm system). This is most definitely a 21st century innovation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PF27CXZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I actually have this system installed on both of my M2S fat tire ebikes. And, when called upon, it works like a charm. Continuous.. Shrill.. Loud.. Annoying.. A real attention-getter. You can see in the photo how the 2 needed components --the siren itself (partially hidden by black tape) and the small white remote unit-- are located. The remotes' buttons are right at my finger tip. The “remote” pod is attached to the left side brake lever housing via velcro tape tabs. I can thus transfer the one remote between the 2 ebikes, each with their own mounted siren. As for the siren, it is mounted onto a length of velcro (actually a cut up neoprene knee brace/support from WalMart-- also useful as a pants cuff protector on your lower right leg) and wrapped around the bumper guard. That allows it to also be easily removed if/when deemed necessary. I don't have a need for the small separate magnetic piece (needed for the usual method of home security).So, whenever you have an interaction with a rude person/persons, give them the siren for however long is deemed necessary (it shuts off automatically after 60 seconds). I actually chased two azzholes for 1/4 mile just to give them a taste of “rudeness payback”. Too damn funny, too. Of course, they could have possibly stopped and beat me into a little pile of hamster dooty, but that's a chance worth taking.

FINALLY:You can store multiple 16oz CO2 cartridges (used with a tire inflator) inside a 30.4mm seatpost (M2S fat tire ebike size-- I was able to store 3 cartridges in a 300mm long post). For a 27.2mm seatpost – the most common size for all bicycles --12oz cartridges should fit. Either way, you will need to formulate an end plug for the seatpost hole. The neoprene forearm pads that are part of the triathlon bar system will work perfectly -- just insert a string thru the newly cut "end plug" to ease removal. You will thus free up alot of space in your tool pouch, etc by using this storage method.

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Apparently, I just gotta get a life-- or not.. More later (?).. Time to ride..
 

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