ADDENDUM on Jan 10, 2020: Since I now have numerous threads posted (sorry about that), I want to let viewers know their chronological sequence, thus every thread title will begin with (# ).So, I'm off on a recent 50 mile ride aboard my blue 2018 KUSH dual suspension 750w rear hub beast. Suddenly, I am aware of “grindage” which sounds alot like the evil front wheel bearing situation that I had dealt with some months back. Only this time the grindage was coming from the rear wheel.. Doddle fartz.. Not a good omen. I have been wondering how long it would be until the rear wheel bearings would need to be replaced. Apparently, this was that time (@12,100 miles).
I'm at trail side exploring the possible options. There aren't any. The grinding sound occurs whenever I pedal, but NEVER when I use 'throttle only” mode. I assume there is not enough pressure torque being applied to the bearings to cause the grinding sound.
When I arrive back at the condo, I zip off a quick email to M2S in regards to purchasing the correct rear wheel bearings. Within a few hours, Reilly @M2S had responded. The bearings are not available separately-- a new hub motor must be purchased/installed. Either that or just go ahead and purchase an entire rear wheelset, complete with motor--the option I would go for (@$375). That way I could have my way with the old rear wheel/motor and, most likely, destroy it. But, at least I would have fun/learn something while doing so.
I decided that, prior to doing the deed (buying the new unit), I would check out a few other options: the cassette teeth/the derailleur pulleys/the chain. All of those items are original equipment and I am quite impressed by how they have performed so well for 12,000+ miles -- despite naysayers who state that M2S ebikes have “lousy components”. But, ya never know.
I was just gonna go ahead and replace each of the aforementioned items because it was “that time”-- especially if I was installing a new rear wheel set, too. But first, as a prelude to a $375+ purchase, I decided to inspect the rear end in a little better detail.
Sure enough, I located the true culprit causing the grindage-- the chain had managed to re-position itself outside the little tit that is located on the backside of the derailleur housing between the upper and lower pulleys. How it had occurred is beyond me, but it had happened (I have a tendency to always be dinking with my 7 bikes). Just goes to show you that its always gonna be something.
So, I disconnected the chain QuikLink. I use 2 of them because I had lengthened the overall chain way back as a result of changing out the original 36 tooth front chainring/crank for a 46 tooth setup. Therefore I added 5 links to the chain. The QuikLinks are much easier to deal with than the re-pinning of a chain link via chain tool. I took care of that situation and was quickly rewarded by a completely SILENT and functionally smooth drive train. Damn, that Silence really is Golden.
However, when I went for a shakedown ride, whenever I was in gear 1,2,or 3, the chain kept falling off the front crank to the INSIDE-- not a good thing because there is a magnet/pickup system located down there (at the bottom bracket). At first I thought I had bent a tooth at the front crank. I closely examined it and found everything to be straight and narrow. I then focused on the chain itself. Sure enough, the QuikLink I had removed/re-installed was “loose” (excess play) and that is what was causing the problem. An easy enough QuikLink replacement fix was accomplished when I returned from the ride.
So, all-in-all, despite the fact that I had automatically focused on the E part of the Ebike, and was quite willing to fork over $375 to remedy the situation, the reality was a very simple $1.00 Old School bicycle fix. What I did discover is that, though I thought I already had some extra rear derailleurs/chains/ 8-speed cassettes, such was NOT the case. So, I ordered 2 of each item because they are going to be needed eventually anyway. The white 2019 R750 hardtail ebike beast (aka WhiteyFord) now has 4,000+ miles and it will just be a matter of time before it, too, must be dealt with. Too much fun.
Just be sure to take the time to really give the ebike a good going over when a situation arises. It is too easy to default to an E culprit than to a simple mechanical remedy. You can learn from my mistakes.
On another note:
I still do 50 mile bike rides every day (weather permitting). As a result of my concerns about the Covid-19 debacle, I have come up with an improvised face mask to wear when riding. It is actually an ear band/muff: https://www.amazon.com/SATINIOR-Hea...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=01FRRZYAFR7ASB6FJVND
I actually wear one around my neck and, when approaching other people, I place it up and over my nose tip/mouth. After the coast is clear, it is easily re-positioned to my neck area. (if it is too loose, just sew it a little tighter – I use fishing line.) I can even rest it just below my lower lip and then move it up/down just by using my jaw action-- it just covers my mouth, though. I also like the fact that the band is lightweight and can be rotated so that I have use of 100% of the fabric area as the bike ride progresses.
As an added measure, when I return from a bike ride, I soak it in hot water, wring it out, and after a few hours, I spray the entire band with a solution of bleach/water and let it soak in/dry in preparation for the next days ride. The bleach smell is very faint and, since the ear band is not constantly covering my various orfices, I am not concerned with overdosing on the “bleachy” odor. If it kills me, so be it. Just goes to show you that its always gonna be something. Besides, I'm 68 years old-- gotta go sometime.
As a final note:
An inexpensive option to use for an ebike work stand. It will need to be used in a doorway.
You will need: a doorway chin-up bar (install the included doorway mounts to assure grip to door frame) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016BNDXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
or, for doorways wider than 35”,
a seatpost (my M2S ebikes use 30.4mm): https://www.amazon.com/SeatPost-CYSKY-Suitable-Mountain-Aluminum/dp/B0716KCGXG/ref=sr_1_10?crid=27KNISK2YN9H&dchild=1&keywords=bike+seatpost+27.2&qid=1585926433&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=bike+seatpost,sporting,242&sr=1-10
and either this bike seat shock (just turn it around backwards from normal to hang it/ebike on chin-up bar).:
or, a couple of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nationa...-U-Bolt-Plate-with-Hex-Nut-N222-398/204660109 .. These will be used in lieu of an actual seat/saddle. They will help provide stability to the dangling ebike as you have your way with it. Just install each U-bolt into the seatpost rails slots at an outward angle-- they will have the appearance of "butterfly wings" except for the fact that they protrude out at a slightly downwards angle. The use of an "offset seatpost" (standard on my M2S ebikes), mounted backwards from normal, allows that offset to rest on top of the chin-up bar and the butterfly wings stabilize side-to-side motion of the suspended ebike.
In regards to the seat shock: I have it installed on a seatpost/saddle and actually use it upon occasion on the 2019 M2S R750 hard tail ebike (WhiteyFord). I must admit that I am quite impressed by it, too. As a matter of fact, whenever I do ride with the seat shock installed, I “lock out” the front fork (thereby making it completely rigid) so the only shock absorber effect is accomplished by the newest toy. The comfort effect is quite satisfactory. I even installed one of my carbon fiber saddles (NO padding at all) onto it just for chitz 'n grinz.
If you buy/use one of these puppies, be sure to do the following:
prior to removing your current seatpost/saddle, measure from the tip of the saddle to the bolt on the stem. Write it down. Now measure from the saddle tip to the ground. Write it down. Now make a mark on your seatpost where it enters the bike frame (either magic marker or “score” a line with a saw/sharp knife). The saddle measurements will be used when you install the new contraption to insure that things are gonna still be in the same position as the original setup. The saddle will have quite a bit of “forward lean”, but that will be erased when you sit on the bike. There will be a very slight amount of “push”, requiring you to brace yourself at the handlebar. A pair of bar ends will aid you immensely (I have them installed on all 7 bikes).
As for the seatpost: it will sink another 2”+ into the bike frame. The reason for marking it is too make reverting back to the original setup that much easier (you already have the 2 saddle measurements).
Another option is to retain all of your original saddle/seatpost combo and buy a seperate saddle/seatpost to use with the bike shock contraption. But still do the aforementioned saddle measurements..
Thats All Folks..