After repair I lost overdrive with Enviolo manual

AHRM

New Member
Region
USA
My RM, with the Enviolo manual shift handle broke. I bought a new one on eBay. Tried to install myself but one of the cables broke. I took it to bike shop who did a pretty nice job on the cabling. The problem is I have lost my overdrive gears now at least probably 20 to 30% of them. Do you believe it’s the cables or is it more than likely the interface and hub need to be reset For max overdrive?

I also had them put on a new interface because mine broke at one of the cable mounts.
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JVBulman

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
Sounds like they removed the old hub interface in one position and installed the new one in another. The fix is to remove it, reset the hub to full-overdrive and reinstall the interface in the proper position.
 

sammcneill

Active Member
Region
New Zealand
My RM, with the Enviolo manual shift handle broke. I bought a new one on eBay. Tried to install myself but one of the cables broke. I took it to bike shop who did a pretty nice job on the cabling. The problem is I have lost my overdrive gears now at least probably 20 to 30% of them. Do you believe it’s the cables or is it more than likely the interface and hub need to be reset For max overdrive?

I also had them put on a new interface because mine broke at one of the cable mounts.View attachment 127637
Just a question @AHRM - how have you concluded / estimates you’ve lost 20-30% overdrive?

Is it just the top gear / resistance is missing so your cadence is too high even when the grip shift is in full/top gear ?
 

JVBulman

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
Is it just the top gear / resistance is missing so your cadence is too high even when the grip shift is in full/top gear ?
A loss of overdrive is the result of interface at the hub physically stopping about 2/3 of the way through it's rotation and this is reflected in on the shifter by the little man being unable to transition to what's illustrated as "flat ground."
 

AHRM

New Member
Region
USA
Sounds like they removed the old hub interface in one position and installed the new one in another. The fix is to remove it, reset the hub to full-overdrive and reinstall the interface in the proper position.
I did fix it I found the video on YouTube. Now it’s just it was it possible to shift
 

mkeys

New Member
Region
USA
I had a shift cable snap over the weekend while riding home. Called a ride home and opened the shifter to find both cables very mangled up.

I replaced both cables to spec based on an enviolo video on the subject. Now I am experiencing the problem that the OP was having above where I am experiencing a big loss of range in the over/underdrive.

I followed the video from Enviolo that had me remove the tire, vice it up, spin the tire clockwise while moving the manual interface from L to H until I find a hard stop. I then took off that interface, moved it to full H, and reinstalled the tire. Same problem. I've done this twice now with pretty much the same results. At best I am able to move which part of the limited shifting range I have access to, but have not been able to get the full range.

Anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong here?
 

mkeys

New Member
Region
USA
So I think I figured out where I was going wrong. I was doing a lot of my testing stationary and the bike needs to be rolling to give you full range of the under/overdrive.

Additionally when my brake cable snapped I believe my shifter indicator got mis-calibrated so even when in full overdrive it wasn't reading flat. I was able to take it apart and manually move just the last gear in the set of gears that control that indicator to make it read flat while in full overdrive.

I'll be taking a test drive soon to verify everything feels right.
 

sammcneill

Active Member
Region
New Zealand
So I think I figured out where I was going wrong. I was doing a lot of my testing stationary and the bike needs to be rolling to give you full range of the under/overdrive.

Additionally when my brake cable snapped I believe my shifter indicator got mis-calibrated so even when in full overdrive it wasn't reading flat. I was able to take it apart and manually move just the last gear in the set of gears that control that indicator to make it read flat while in full overdrive.

I'll be taking a test drive soon to verify everything feels right.
I've definitely noticed too that the "change gears when stationary" is a bit overhyped with the Enviolo - you can move them a bit, but you really need some rolling to "free" the IGH to fully shift as well.

I'm thinking Rohloff is different but don't know for certain - although getting a new Rohloff powered non-eBike next month and looking forward to testing that out.
 

Bill G

Member
Region
USA
So I think I figured out where I was going wrong. I was doing a lot of my testing stationary and the bike needs to be rolling to give you full range of the under/overdrive.

Additionally when my brake cable snapped I believe my shifter indicator got mis-calibrated so even when in full overdrive it wasn't reading flat. I was able to take it apart and manually move just the last gear in the set of gears that control that indicator to make it read flat while in full overdrive.

I'll be taking a test drive soon to verify everything feels right.
I had similar problem and eventually got it sorted, but my icon interface was off (hill to Mt Everest). The two internal plastic gears on the shifter display were out of synch, but I was afraid to force them to a new position. How did you do this? Thanks.
 

mkeys

New Member
Region
USA
Yeah I was similarly afraid to force them, for good reason. They are plastic and if forced I think you are likely to break a tooth on the gear or maybe the axle.

After some fiddling I realized that the plastic display cover you look through to see the rider indicator comes off. It is just press-fit with a 3 pretty weak clips that keep it in place. When you have the shifter open exposing the cables it is pretty easy to pop it out using a small tool to poke from the inside.

Once you have that out, it exposes a small philips head screw. It was after taking out this screw that I was able to lift up on the top casing and create enough separation between the gears so that they were not meshing with one another. While in this state I was able to manually turn ONLY the very last gear that attaches to the rider and get it into the full overdrive/flat position.

Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures during this process but I hope that explanation helps!