Allant+ 9.9S Carbon Fiber Fork, Head Tube, Headset, etc.

GuruUno

Active Member
Last week I hit a pretty big pothole, bent my front rim and took a dump. Fortunately, only I had a minimal facial injury as the brunt of the spill was absorbed by my helmet, and then 1 end of my handlebars. Traveling about 5-7 MPH.
Got up, brushed off, verified all was good on the bike and continued with a bent rim. Slight, but bent nonetheless.
Ordered a new rim and will have this week.
Went for a 12 mile ride yesterday, yes with the slightly bent rim, and noticed a clunking over irregular terrain. No noises on smooth pavement.
Upon returning, cleaned up the bike and noticed the front fork was slightly loose, like if I stood in front of the bike with the front wheel between my legs and rocked the bike back and forth while holding the handlebars there was slight movement, clicking.
Saw that the space under the frame to where the fork meets frame about maybe 1/8".
I disassembled the cockpit stuff (Smartphone hub), removed the handlebars, took off the stem and wow, those spacers that hide and route the wires, what a challenge.
Anyway, saw there was a very small silver screw that held a doo-hickey that was snapped off at it's head.
Something I could not fix, put it back together and dropped it off at the LBS to repair.
I'm attaching 2 photos of the OEM photo for the 9.9S and the "real" photo, where the spacers are and 2 photos of the doo-hickey.
Sure seems like a lot of build up, spacers, etc., and was curious if others have any opinion or contribution as to the overall effect of so many spacers and/or any offerings as to any info what the doo-hickey is.
For the life of me, I cannot find any online references, service manual, diagram or anything from Trek as to how this unique setup is referenced.
Trek 9.9S Doo-hickey 1 copy.jpgTrek 9.9S Doo-hickey 2 copy.jpgAllant HeadTube Spacers.jpegAllant HeadTube Spacers-many.png
 

Alaskan

Well-Known Member
The dohikey is what limits the front wheel swivel within useful steering range and keeps the fork and wheel from doing a 180.
 

Nova Haibike

Well-Known Member
The dohikey is what limits the front wheel swivel within useful steering range and keeps the fork and wheel from doing a 180.
...so the cabling inside doesn't get f'd up. The bike companies are doing their best to make sure that when you need to service your bike, that it will be so complicated that you need to take it to the shop and pay for an hour or more worth of work instead. While it could be argued that internally routed cables and lines is more protected from damage, but when you do need to change it (and it will be), it is a real pain in the behind.
 

GuruUno

Active Member
Well, the bike has been at the LBS for 22 days. After repeated calls, insistence to find out why, what, etc., the FINALLY put it on the bike stand and removed the fork. Upon inspection, I'm told that that "screw" that is epoxied into the frame and stops the handlebars from moving past a specific point (of the traveled distance/circumference of the operational limits of left to right turning) is 'pulled' from the frame, potentially making the frame deficient. Quite frankly, I disagree, as I inspected it prior to taking it to the shop and saw that the "doo-hickey" that prohibits movement past a specific point when turning the steering via the handlebars only had the head ripped off of the screw. An "ez-out" to remove the remaining screw from the frame is to me all that needs to be done, but who am I to disagree with the LBS mechanic who has never in his life ever on the face of the earth inspected a fork in an Allant frame nor ever even seen this setup, as it is unique and new to the Allant.

In any event, awaiting the Trek headquarters call to the LBS to 'advise'.

I think the engineers or designers need to be consulted, as there are zero anything for documentation about the setup anywhere to reference.

Comments, advice?
 

GuruUno

Active Member
My further research shows the part is the Trek Knock Block retaining screw head sheared off and any associated parts that are part of that assembly. (the 'stop chip' is still there and the head of the screw was in the recess of the stop chip)
If the head only is sheared off and the screw needs to be extracted, I'd assume that the threaded receiver for the screw in the head tube is fine, but the LBS feels that it is epoxied and is awaiting the Trek mothership to advise.

Anyone ever have that knock block shear off and?

The weird part is that the Knock Block and stop chip are installed in the inside of the head tube (the part where the fork tube goes through the frame) so it's actually concealed or hidden, completely opposite of a 'normal' bike, according to my research.

As in this video: