Bafang Ultra Alternative Settings For Basic, Pedal Assist & Throttle Handle..

D.Unwin

Active Member
I found these settings online & thought they might be helpful, it is something I will be trying out once my Frey arrives, please feel free to add your own proven settings for a smoother ride from the Bafang Ultra Motor.

The link to the website is at the bottom...



Basic tab:


Remember to click "Read" on each screen to read settings from the motor, once changed click "Write"

  1. Low Battery Protect(V): This is the low voltage cutoff. For a 48V battery, it is recommended to leave this at 43V. For a 52V battery, leave this at 47V.
  2. Limited Current(A): 30A for 1000W, 25A for 750W, 20A for 500W. Note that BBS02 won't let you set this to over 25A.
  3. Limit Current(%) and Limit Spd(%): We like to set these to ramp from 0-100 in increments of 10 for Current% and leave all Spd% at 100. This means that the lowest assist would have 10% of the current limit (3A) while the highest assist would have 100% current limit. If you set a limit on spd, then each time you reach a particular speed, the motor would cut power. For example, if your top speed is set to 32kph, and if Assit1 spd% is set to 10, then if the bike reaches 3.2kph, then the motor would stop assisting in level 1. This is not desirable.
  4. If you want more aggressive assist, then you can set the current% to larger increments as shown in the screenshot below.
  5. If you want a smoother level 1 assist, reduce Assit0 Current% to 4-10.
  6. Note that Assit0 is a special variable. Setting Assit0 Current% to 1 and Spd% to 1 along with "Designated Assist level=9" in Throttle Handle would enable throttle on all levels to full power including assist level 0.
  7. Speed Meter Mode and SpdMeter setting can be left at default.




Pedal Assist Tab:


Remember to click "Read" on each screen to read settings from the motor, once changed click "Write"

  1. Pedal type: leave this as default
  2. Designated Assist, Speed Limited: leave this "By Display's command" so that you can change settings on the display.
  3. Start Current%: This variable is very important so that you don't burn the controller. If this value is set to a low percentage, then it is less strenuous on the motor. Set this to 1-10% and you'll have smooth pedal assist acceleration from standstill. Set it to 100% and you'll burn the controller beyond repair.
  4. Slow-Start Mode(1-8): Controls how fast the power ramps up. Set this too low and you'll burn the controller. Set it too high and PAS will be jerky. We recommend setting this anywhere between 3-5.
  5. Startup Degree(Signal No.): Determines how soon the assist kicks in. 24 a full revolution. We recommend setting this between 2-4. 2 will provide assistance right away (30 deg pedal stroke), 4 will provide the assist after approx 60degree pedal stroke.
  6. Work Mode (angular Speed of Pedal/wheel*10): Leave the default
  7. Time of Stop(x10ms): Determines how quickly the motor stops once you stop pedaling. The recommended setting 5-20.
  8. Current Decay(1-8): Determines at how high of a pedaling RPM the motor starts backing off the power. The recommended setting is 4-8.
  9. Stop Decay(x10ms): the amount of time the system takes to cut after pedaling stops. Lower is faster. Recommended setting to 0.
  10. Keep Current(%): Ramp current setting. Recommended 30-80. 30 will make the motor more efficient at higher speeds, 80 will make it use more battery.




Throttle Handle Tab:


Remember to click "Read" on each screen to read settings from the motor, once changed click "Write"



  1. Start Voltage(x100mv): The is the throttle input starting voltage, the point at which the controller responds to input is at 1.1 volts, so set value to 15 which = 1.5 volts. As you begin to roll on the throttle the voltage moves up from zero and when it reaches 1.5v the motor begins to turn. Best to leave between 10 and 15. Too low and the display will throw an error as the motor will want to run continuously. If you change the throttle you will need to find the new lowest setting. We recommend 11 to 15. 11 for more instant throttle engagement. 15 for more throttle movement from 0.
  2. End Voltage(x100mV): You can set the max range to 42 which is the max input the controller accepts from throttle input 4.2v. If you set lower than this value your throttle response is not as linear or smooth as it could be. We recommend 35-40.
  3. Mode: Switching this to Current Mode (instead of Speed mode) has an improvement in the throttle response smoothness. Speed mode makes the throttle more aggressive. Some riders prefer that.
  4. Designated Assist: This setting if set will override the Limit Speed setting on the Basic Tab and also overrides the speed limited on the Basic Tab. If you set this to 9 be aware that you can and will fry your controller if you are in too high of a gear on too steep of a hill and you peg the throttle. Recommended setting 6-9. 9 only for advanced users who know how to use bike gears appropriately.
  5. Speed Limited: Set this to 32-40kph. Using the Display setting here will cause severe lag in throttle response.
  6. Start Current(%): 5-10 gives a much smoother startup. This can be set all the way down to 1, great for IGH bikes, and smoothing out power delivery. Do not set to values higher than 10.

 
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Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
Once you start playing with these. . .you'll find that you can tune it to your riding style which make the Bafang a lot more refined and enjoyable. I found the stock settings horrible, jerky and aggressive.
This is a personal thing and your weight, bike weight, bike gearing, typical riding terrain and how much exercise your looking for all play a part.
I suggest that you give changes a few days before further modification because how tired you are and your body pains of the day all play into how it feels.
 

greeno

Member
Glad I found this thread. Just built up an Exess bike I got from Pushkar and the throttle response is definitely lacking and slow to respond. I have another bike with the BBSHD and the throttle response is 100% different, hopefully when I get my programing adadpter I can alter the settings.
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Taylor57

Well-Known Member
Once you start playing with these. . .you'll find that you can tune it to your riding style which make the Bafang a lot more refined and enjoyable. I found the stock settings horrible, jerky and aggressive.
This is a personal thing and your weight, bike weight, bike gearing, typical riding terrain and how much exercise your looking for all play a part.
I suggest that you give changes a few days before further modification because how tired you are and your body pains of the day all play into how it feels.
Rocket, do you have an Ultra? I am hearing my Frey CC controller will be lame and that the Watt Wagon upgrade is the way to go. Agree or disagree?
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
Rocket, do you have an Ultra? I am hearing my Frey CC controller will be lame and that the Watt Wagon upgrade is the way to go. Agree or disagree?
No, I have a Bafang BBS02B. But it seems that most of the Bafang motors suffer from somewhat poor stock programing
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
I didn't find the progaming hard at all. It's a very personal thing so no matter how it arrives you'll want to tweak it to how you ride.
 

Taylor57

Well-Known Member
I didn't find the progaming hard at all. It's a very personal thing so no matter how it arrives you'll want to tweak it to how you ride.
Fair enough Rocket. So I read above your comments about using the cable and programming your bike, I think a Bafang perhaps not an Ultra. So I plug the cable into the Frey and then into?
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
A laptop with the Programing software.. The BBSxx software is available online for download. The ultra has an extra page used to adjust the torque settings, but I'm sure that it is available for download as well.
@AHicks may be able to steer you in the right direction.
 

Taylor57

Well-Known Member
A laptop with the Programing software.. The BBSxx software is available online for download. The ultra has an extra page used to adjust the torque settings, but I'm sure that it is available for download as well.
@AHicks may be able to steer you in the right direction.
So its laptop time, lol. So my OBD II reader wont work?
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
Eggrider seems like a nice tool and though more expensive than a cable, not beyond reason.
I don't know if I'd want to use it all the time. Since programming I seldom make changes, but it would be great for initial setup and for logging/testing any future problems.
 

D.Unwin

Active Member
i bought one but my bike is still on route, i really wanted something with a smaller screen over the DC18 and the programming whilst on the move was a bonus.
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
It gets good reviews... but I don't know if I would wholeheartedly recommend something that I never used.
I'm on the other end of the spectrum. My tired eyes would never be able to read that display, especially off center and in bright light.
I appreciate the two part 860C display with separate buttons near my hand and near phone size very bright screen over my stem.
That said... I wouldn't mind having one as a tool. ;)
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
If I can, let me just share the fact that there are a LOT of different priorities among the Bafang mid drive owners. As a recent new member of this group, I read quite a few different stories, gleaning many tid bits. The bigger thing though, was noticing the big disparity among the screen prints from the different riders. They're all over the map! It wasn't until getting into my own that it occurred to me that this was because riders have different 'druthers when it comes to setup.

This is not going to be a case where you can just duplicate somebody else's results using screen prints and be all set. Not if you want it YOUR way!

I would suggest you ride the bike as it's delivered for a few miles (50?), and identify exactly what it is you don't like about it. Then do some studying on each different item, attacking them one at a time. If you try to do it all at once, I think your going to find you've made a mess, and will have to go back to where you started and start over again.

My big beef was how hard the initial throttle was hitting while just starting out - an easy fix.
Then there was the fact I couldn't contribute anything of my own at lower speeds, even in PAS 1 and 2. I was ghost pedaling. Another easy fix.
And on and on, with several more issues.

I'm not a rocket scientist, nor a computer whiz, and I didn't find it that difficult either. I'm REALLY happy with how it is right now, knowing full well there may be more "tweaks" required as we build the miles up.

Not everyone is real crazy about the EggRider solution... -Al
 

D.Unwin

Active Member
If I can, let me just share the fact that there are a LOT of different priorities among the Bafang mid drive owners. As a recent new member of this group, I read quite a few different stories, gleaning many tid bits. The bigger thing though, was noticing the big disparity among the screen prints from the different riders. They're all over the map! It wasn't until getting into my own that it occurred to me that this was because riders have different 'druthers when it comes to setup.

This is not going to be a case where you can just duplicate somebody else's results using screen prints and be all set. Not if you want it YOUR way!

I would suggest you ride the bike as it's delivered for a few miles (50?), and identify exactly what it is you don't like about it. Then do some studying on each different item, attacking them one at a time. If you try to do it all at once, I think your going to find you've made a mess, and will have to go back to where you started and start over again.

My big beef was how hard the initial throttle was hitting while just starting out - an easy fix.
Then there was the fact I couldn't contribute anything of my own at lower speeds, even in PAS 1 and 2. I was ghost pedaling. Another easy fix.
And on and on, with several more issues.

I'm not a rocket scientist, nor a computer whiz, and I didn't find it that difficult either. I'm REALLY happy with how it is right now, knowing full well there may be more "tweaks" required as we build the miles up.

Not everyone is real crazy about the EggRider solution... -Al
thanks for the advice, maybe you should pop which settings you changed to help you out then people can decide if they would like to do that also. This would save people hitting the same issues and asking how to change the settings.

it would be good to see what settings you altered which is what this group is aimed at

ta