You want to test that the battery is outputting voltage and that it is reaching the controller.The multimeter arrived (the same VC830L you linked to @Gionnirocket ). I won't have time to look at it until after work, but if you could give me some pointers on what tests to run and how to do so that'd be handy. I understand it's not rocket science but bear in mind I have no background working with electricity lol, I'm just a full time employed sound designer .
I told you that you had nothing to lose by opening up your splice... and that was on a Tuesday when I typically have a 68% chance of being right.One of the cables got pulled out of the splice
I did say 'at first sight'. I also consistently mentioned I am not very knowledgable about any of this. You sound a bit disgruntled.Cracks me up. I’m glad you sorted but I have to say I see this doing support nearly every day. Maybe someday I’ll be as smart as my customers. Almost true. Glad it worked out. Ride it like you stole it!
That's great... I like it when it's easy!My father always taught me to stay quiet if I don't have anything of substance to add to the conversation.Yet here I am .
Anyway all is well and I'm zipping about again. Thanks again mate.
I've done a fair amount of crimping with large conductors and a hydraulic crimp tool. If done properly they'll last forever.Cracks me up too. I'm told they use crimps on US Navy nuclear submarines to handle big time currents, but the crimp pliers are hydraulic and still have two foot long handles. Me, I never got a crimp to last doing automotive work. The wires would turn green after a few months and fall out.