Cannot get Rad Rover 5 into P and C programming mode

MakerGlenn

New Member
Region
USA
Hello all. I just received in the last month a Rad Rover 5 my first ebike and I'm learning as I go. I am unable to get the display/controller to enter the P/C setting screens. The display appears to be a KT-LCD3 since it matches every video/doc I read so far trying to resolve my problem. So here's my issue: I can get into the General Settings screens no problem. (Note: my first general settings screen starts with tire size, not the max speed setting fwiw.) But as documented, after scrolling through the general settings - the display should stop flashing. Then one can hold the up+down buttons again to get into the P settings screens. BUT...I can not get my display to stop flashing!! Trust me I've tried so many things and searched and watch videos and its really straight forward what to do...I just can't get to the other setting screens. So, I'm not sure if there is a issue with my display/controller? Did RAD changed the firmware so you can't access those screens? Did the key sequence change? Any clues would be greatly appreciated. TYIA.
 

ExPatBrit

Active Member
I think that's a King Meter Display not a KT. They look similar and some of the instructions are identical.

1623865451142.png
 

MakerGlenn

New Member
Region
USA
Thanks. I will investigate the programming sequence for that model. A quick search/read of the manual for that display does not document access to the P/C setting screens. I'll dig deeper tonight.
 

ExPatBrit

Active Member
Its listed as the SW-U-II LCD

Personalized parameter settings, hopefully Rad didn't lock it with a password.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Unless something has changed just recently, I will guarantee the Rad displays are locked down. That's the #1 reason the Bolton mod's are as popular as they are. THEY (the Bolton mods) come with the KT controller and displays that can be set up according to a rider's wishes. -Al
 

MakerGlenn

New Member
Region
USA
Having tried a few more sequences it appears the Rad version does not allow access to the advanced settings. Fortunately I'm sitting on a KT-LCD8H display and 35A controller. I thought it might be prudent to record my current Rad Rover display/controller P&C settings before I did the upgrade. So I guess I'll just proceed with the upgrade.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
I think you'll find there's nothing in that original display you would want once your new one is installed and set properly. Start with Bolton's recommendations and holler if you need a hand from there. Several of us are pretty familiar with the KT stuff. -Al
 

MakerGlenn

New Member
Region
USA
Thanks for confirming my suspicions. Bolton is out of stock on the upgrade and Jeff at Bolton told me it would be several months before he gets stock again. So I purchased the KT-LCD8HU display (https://electrobikeworld.com/products/kt-lcd8h-color-for-rad) and the 35A controller (KT48SVPRL-SPS3F)(https://electrobikeworld.com/products/35a-controller-rad) from Electrobikeworld. So noticing that the recommended parameters were different on the Electrobike product pages - is when I thought it would be wise to see what my original RAD controller parameters where before I removed the controller and wouldn't have access to the info.

So I have my homework to do.... (and I haven't hooked up the LCD8 yet to play with it yet....) but if any of you have helpful suggestions/pointers to get me started I'd greatly appreciate it. In particular, is the upgrade I purchased the same one Bolton sells and therefore the more extensive info on their site is applicable to my controller? Thanks again...
 

ExPatBrit

Active Member
Just FYI

C5 adjusts maximum current (and watts) I found about 1250W was enough, C12 changes cutoff voltage to 40V on a 48V Battery. There is momentary 4-5 volt drop when you go full throttle or PAS 5 with the mod . It recovers a bit but if you are under 46 volts it can trip the cutout just when you need the power.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
I would say Bolton's info will work fine on your bike.