Chain falling off BBSHD alternative option chainring

Jz1276

Member
So I received everything and put the bike together the best I could. And it seemed to work pretty flawlessly. I rode around for a while and the torque aandspeed were amazing, but towards the end of the evening I noticed that when I let one of my friends try it out( and it wasn't his fault), the chain started to fall off consistently.
So I'm not sure if it is because I purchased a brand new chain and it may have stretched out a bit throughout the course of the day or I need to take a few links out and make it a little bit tighter... is anyone familiar with the BBS HD chain rule that Luna offers instead of the stock one?
,, when I first purchased my bbso2 I had the problem with the stock chain ring and then I got the Leekie Bling Ring and all that seem to stop. So I'm basically not sure if it is a chain ring or if I should get a new chain possibly a wider one to allow for the thicker teeth or try one of the resolutions I mentioned above!
I hate having these questions because I like trying to figure these things out myself but the simplest things are often the biggest pains.
What makes it worse is that the person that I was building it for decided that he wanted it done at a specific time, but I told him that I would have certain type of builds anything can go wrong. Also if you want to look aesthetically pleasing wiring has to be routed properly and everything else that you all know goes along with it.
Just to share he showed up this morning looking to pick up the bike and I told him he can have it but I did not want to give it to him the way that it was because God forbid something were to happen and if he were to get hurt or just have an overall bad experience I wouldn't want that on me. My girlfriend told me to just give him the bike and be done with it but that's just not the way things are done especially with what we do exclamation point so we are certain bikes perform is a reflection upon the work that we do....
Sorry so long but if you can throw some ideas my way that would be great because I'm just going to start with the chain and do the good ol' process of elimination. Thanks for your ear. Jason
 

Neal

Member
The stock ring that comes with the BBSHD is junk. I've done 3 HD installs now and am not impressed with them. If you're using Luna, they have three options. The standard aluminum chain ring. This is 42 teeth and your best bet for $50. The Luna eclipse ring is heavily dished (about 1 inch of offset)and I've found it rubs the chain stay on some bikes. It's the nicest looking and highest quality, but it's also twice the money at $100. The mighty mini is $56 and only 30 teeth, it also does take away from the top end enough that I personally feel it. I use the mini on my fat bike and can climb until I flip over backward! All three rings are narrow thin design and should aid in keeping the chain on. Just make sure you verify the ring is designed for the HD. It has different bolt pattern than the 02.
 

Adrian

Active Member
The Lekkie will fix a lot of chain drop issues; it has a decent offset to bring the chain line back in and it has a good narrow wide tooth profile. Some people have reported experiencing chain drop with the Eclipse with some chains because the teeth are so damn big - it also has so much offset that many have to use spacers to bring it out again.

My chain drop issues stopped with a Lekkie - and I also bought a good quality KMC ebike chain to help prevent premature stretching.

Also, don't forget that you should take some links off your chain when reducing the tooth count on you chainring.
 

Jz1276

Member
The Lekkie will fix a lot of chain drop issues; it has a decent offset to bring the chain line back in and it has a good narrow wide tooth profile. Some people have reported experiencing chain drop with the Eclipse with some chains because the teeth are so damn big - it also has so much offset that many have to use spacers to bring it out again.

My chain drop issues stopped with a Lekkie - and I also bought a good quality KMC ebike chain to help prevent premature stretching.

Also, don't forget that you should take some links off your chain when reducing the tooth count on you chainring.
Hi thanks for getting back to me... that was actually one of the first things on my list to do which actually helped.
I also changed the trailer that was on the bike previously because it was fairly old and just put a new Shimano Acera on there and itS working a lot better.
I'm noticing that I can go to the first gear or it will kind of jump off the cassette but it will allow me to switch it back on before anything happens.
I do believe the leekie( from personal experience) is the way to go though...
This was/is a 16 year old bike that I did a ton of mods on for my client. It handles pretty awesome though and is damn fast!lol.
I do have some more questions that I will be posting throughout the day for my next build which will be mine... It will be totally carbon fiber and everything will be done to the "9", because I really think I deserve it! Nah, it's just that time. Jason
 

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Adrian

Active Member
I'd be interested in your carbon build as the BB shell thickness on carbon bikes is normally too thick to accommodate a BBSxx
 
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Jz1276

Member
I'd be interested in your carbon build as the BB shell thickness on carbon bikes is normally too thick to accommodate a BBSxx
Hi, I just wanted to ask if you worked on any bikes in particular that were carbon that you had a bad experience with?
I'm looking to go custom all the way. I've been researching a lot of the (no name-brand Chinese frames) and some of the others that you may have heard of like "ican".
I'm looking into these and have been for a little while. I would like to have my logo on there and customize the hell out of it. I found a few things that I would like to try and make work... If they do, it would make the bike look crazy and somewhat futuristic! For example, I'll share one idea! I am trying to use a heads-up display unit as the ones used in cars to display the speed and other things on the front windshield for the driver.
Obviously since there is no windshield, the main issue to over come is how to get the display to even show? So I found something that when used at night will hopefully give a hologram effect and possibly look really cool! If not, really cheesy and then I will have to forget the whole thing(and you can forget that I even mentioned anything about it until you hear from me or see some pictures up)...
My other issue since I'm going with the full suspension, is battery and positioning. I've been using it in a backpack while I've been testing it but now he wants it on a rack and that's fine. For my build though, I would like it on the down tube if possible. Preferably like a smaller Dolphin pack or one of the slimmer packs that are not as wide.
Earlier I posted some pics of a build I just did for a client and I used a Luna cycle 52 volt 11.5ah slim battery. The battery has a lot of torque, but it doesn't last nearly as long as I thought it would. I guess coming from a BBS02 w/ a 48v 20ah battery left me with some High Hopes, but I was forgetting what I was giving up to get in return.
Some of you may or may not know(it was kind of new to me) that working with 52 volt batteries & the BBSHD will not show you the correct battery life on the c965 display. It does however show the correct battery usage on the new color display.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
I had only worked with 48v batts previously. Most of you may know this important piece of information already, but I have not been keeping up with certain things like I should've been bc life can get a little crazy at times(which I'm sure we can all relate to) and we can't all do the things that we would like in the time frame that we have.
Anyway, so I am waiting to hear back from the distributor that I have been speaking with to make sure that the frames BB will in fact not be a problem for the BBS installation.
Last question... Does anyone know why Bafangs new c965 displays are not programmed to show the wattage being used any more? I know when I had my first bbso2 that was a feature that I liked and whenever you hit the throttle you could see the wattage going.
I kind of wanted to avoid hooking up a cycle analyst to it but I'm thinking that it might be mandatory if I really want to know what's going on with the system in all aspects. The handlebar's just getting more and more crowded by the moment. Lol. I guess that's why I'm already looking at Carbon Fiber handlebar extensions to place more gadgets on... I was also looking at a rearview monitor system to see what's going on behind me but I realized that if you already have a cell phone and a GoPro or GoPro type camera, you can set up your GoPro anywhere behind you and use your cellphone as the monitor... Imo, how many times can you really record what's going on in front of you anyway(or want to)? *If anyone's already thought of this please let me know, bc I don't want to be taking credit for anyone's ideas! If not I kind of just thought about it the other day as I was thinking of ways to save space & money. Obviously if you're into building electric bikes and making them even better than they are, you're probably into technology and gadgets. So I'm guessing having a monitor on your handlebars to see what's going on behind you might be a nice little touch, especially now that you can incorporate it into items you may already have.... Now throw on a cell phone holder, an lcd display for your motor/battery, motors control unit, possibly a cycle analyst, a nice headlight with its own power source, throttle, bar extenders, plus any other toys like I mentioned above, etc... Kind of a lot for something that's solely meant for steering and speed control. Imagine all that on a steering wheel?
I kind of threw a lot of things out there on this post so if anyone has a moment to recall some of the main issues that I brought up and has any answers or good advice I would appreciate anything! Please excuse any typos or grammatical errors, as I'm using voice recognition to bang out this email. Jason
 

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Adrian

Active Member
That was a lot.

A couple of things;

1) the DPC-14 is not entirely accurate with 52V batteries. The voltage readings top out at 56v so only becomes accurate when the battery gets below this which is about 80% charge. I've just received my 52v battery but haven't wired it up yet so will know 1st hand this weekend.

2) No, I haven't done anything with BBSxx and carbon frames but I've yet to see anyone post that they've managed to fit on to a standard carbon frame. I did see someone post one fitted to a highly modified frame a week or two ago (but can't find the post anywhere) but that frame's BB area was totally rebuilt and looked more like a frame that could fit a Bosch drive afterwards. The problem is the shell thickness, which is usually very thick compared to a standalone metal shell as it has to have a metal liner plus the carbon surrounding it.
 

Jz1276

Member
Screenshot_20160601-101013.png Screenshot_20160601-101013.png I'm going to post the picture below but I do understand what you mean. I've had to drill out the cylinders on a few Cannondales so maybe it will be the same thing with the metal area that is threaded.
If you can find a picture that would be great I haven't heard back from the distributor but i want to give it a shot anyway.
Sorry the other post was so long.... when I use voice recognition I can usually write up a storm. I'll try to keep it shorter from now on... Jason
 
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Jz1276

Member
I'd be interested in your carbon build as the BB shell thickness on carbon bikes is normally too thick to accommodate a BBSxx
Hello I just had a quick question regarding the last comment you made about the shell thickness. I was just wondering as I have bored out the Cannondale bottom bracket to make the bbso2 fit is this something that I can also do with the bottom bracket of this carbon build?
In the pictures that I receive From the seller the show one picture where the bottom bracket looks completely clean and that there was nothing inserted in there whatsoever and then the next picture shows that there looks like there is a piece of aluminum alloy that is threaded which makes it look thicker. I'm just wondering if I can possibly drill this out without any consequences?
I'm trying to ask the distributor about it, but the language barrier makes it a little hard for them to understand what I'm saying. Do you know anybody that I can reach out to that has dealt with this yet?
I'm looking to go with the 29-inch wheel and a 17 to 18 inch frame, but I just found what seems like a good deal on a 19 inch frame with 26 inch wheels, but the seller has not gotten back to me at all and I just want to make sure that they are not going to be any issues. It's very confusing and very time consuming, I may just have to order these products and return them if I can't do what I need to with them. Thanks Jason
If you can take notice of the bottom bracket in the first picture as opposed to the way the bottom right it looks in the other picture maybe you can tell what I am looking at as well and if i can work with that? Jason
aurora-MTB231-36.jpg MTB231-1.jpg aurora-MTB231-36.jpg MTB231-1.jpg aurora-MTB231-36.jpg MTB231-1.jpg
 
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Adrian

Active Member
You have 2 problems.

1) the bb shell can be no thicker than 12 or 13 mm AFAIK and that is the limit of the space between the BBSHD axel housing that fits in the BB shell and the motor casing.

2) The other problem is that a BBSXX requires threaded BSA/JIS BB inner shell diameter to fit correctly - if you machine out the BB to make the shell thinner, you are also making the inner diameter larger. You could try machining/modding the outside where the motor housing needs to fit to maintain the inner diameter but I've no idea if that is easy/possible with carbon fiber or whether you'll drastically compromise the frame strength by doing so.
 

Jz1276

Member
You have 2 problems.

1) the bb shell can be no thicker than 12 or 13 mm AFAIK and that is the limit of the space between the BBSHD axel housing that fits in the BB shell and the motor casing.

2) The other problem is that a BBSXX requires threaded BSA/JIS BB inner shell diameter to fit correctly - if you machine out the BB to make the shell thinner, you are also making the inner diameter larger. You could try machining/modding the outside where the motor housing needs to fit to maintain the inner diameter but I've no idea if that is easy/possible with carbon fiber or whether you'll drastically compromise the frame strength by doing so.
Good morning! So this is what i received in response from the sales rep I've been dealing with just this morning.

She writes:
Dear Jason
Hi
I am here to add that the millimeter distance in the picture have the 34mm ,42mm,46mm to choose. Their width are 68mm.
AFAIK,the 68mm is usually used in the electric bike.
The difference between the bottom bracket thickness is the user insert a alloy in the 2nd picture, whick is thicker than 1st.
So the thickness can be changed into a thickness that you need. Please let me know what will work for you.

I'm going to pop out the BBSHD that i currently have and measure it with digital caliper i have and see if there's anything different.
I must admit that the info she provided has confused me a slight bit. Does this make sense to either of you?
I really appreciate your time and responses with this matter. This is kind of a big deal for me bc i am trying to make this bike, "the one"! For me at least... More than anything i want it to be fun, fast and safe!
Once again, i look forward to your response. Jason
 

Jz1276

Member
Good morning! So this is what i received in response from the sales rep I've been dealing with just this morning.

She writes:
Dear Jason
Hi
I am here to add that the millimeter distance in the picture have the 34mm ,42mm,46mm to choose. Their width are 68mm.
AFAIK,the 68mm is usually used in the electric bike.
The difference between the bottom bracket thickness is the user insert a alloy in the 2nd picture, whick is thicker than 1st.
So the thickness can be changed into a thickness that you need. Please let me know what will work for you.

I'm going to pop out the BBSHD that i currently have and measure it with digital caliper i have and see if there's anything different.
I must admit that the info she provided has confused me a slight bit. Does this make sense to either of you?
I really appreciate your time and responses with this matter. This is kind of a big deal for me bc i am trying to make this bike, "the one"! For me at least... More than anything i want it to be fun, fast and safe!
Once again, i look forward to your response. Jason
That was a lot.

A couple of things;

1) the DPC-14 is not entirely accurate with 52V batteries. The voltage readings top out at 56v so only becomes accurate when the battery gets below this which is about 80% charge. I've just received my 52v battery but haven't wired it up yet so will know 1st hand this weekend.

2) No, I haven't done anything with BBSxx and carbon frames but I've yet to see anyone post that they've managed to fit on to a standard carbon frame. I did see someone post one fitted to a highly modified frame a week or two ago (but can't find the post anywhere) but that frame's BB area was totally rebuilt and looked more like a frame that could fit a Bosch drive afterwards. The problem is the shell thickness, which is usually very thick compared to a standalone metal shell as it has to have a metal liner plus the carbon surrounding it.
That was a lot.

A couple of things;

1) the DPC-14 is not entirely accurate with 52V batteries. The voltage readings top out at 56v so only becomes accurate when the battery gets below this which is about 80% charge. I've just received my 52v battery but haven't wired it up yet so will know 1st hand this weekend.

2) No, I haven't done anything with BBSxx and carbon frames but I've yet to see anyone post that they've managed to fit on to a standard carbon frame. I did see someone post one fitted to a highly modified frame a week or two ago (but can't find the post anywhere) but that frame's BB area was totally rebuilt and looked more like a frame that could fit a Bosch drive afterwards. The problem is the shell thickness, which is usually very thick compared to a standalone metal shell as it has to have a metal liner plus the carbon surrounding it.
Btw, how's your new battery? Do you have any pics of your set up? Another issue that I've run into is that they was originally a rim brakes on the rear love this bike and I was planning on converting it to disc but I could only find a disc brake adapter from 8fun.
As I started to put it together and figure it out I realized that I could probably make it work butt when I went to install the rear rack where the battery was going to be placed comma it was directly in the way of the caliper mount. So now I'm not sure if I should give up the caliper because the client wants the battery mounted on a rack or if I can find a seat post rack that is strong enough to hold the battery. Jason
 

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Adrian

Active Member
Good morning! So this is what i received in response from the sales rep I've been dealing with just this morning.

She writes:
Dear Jason
Hi
I am here to add that the millimeter distance in the picture have the 34mm ,42mm,46mm to choose. Their width are 68mm.
AFAIK,the 68mm is usually used in the electric bike.
The difference between the bottom bracket thickness is the user insert a alloy in the 2nd picture, whick is thicker than 1st.
So the thickness can be changed into a thickness that you need. Please let me know what will work for you.

I'm going to pop out the BBSHD that i currently have and measure it with digital caliper i have and see if there's anything different.
I must admit that the info she provided has confused me a slight bit. Does this make sense to either of you?
I really appreciate your time and responses with this matter. This is kind of a big deal for me bc i am trying to make this bike, "the one"! For me at least... More than anything i want it to be fun, fast and safe!
Once again, i look forward to your response. Jason
I'm guessing the 34mm is a BSA/JIS shell (which is what you want), the 42mm is a BB30 and the 46mm is a PF30.

A very useful resource is this; https://www.empoweredcycles.com/blogs/news/101474694-bottom-bracket-standards

The 68mm is of course the BB width.
 

Adrian

Active Member
Btw, how's your new battery? Do you have any pics of your set up?
The new battery is great and has enough capacity that I can do a 20/80% charge without worrying about range.

I don't have a recent pic. I will take one when I get home.
 

Adrian

Active Member
Here it is - the cabling is a little messy since I changed the motor and battery but I'll sort it out one of these days. ;)

image.jpeg