Chain Wear

Bilbo625

Member
Region
Europe
I have 3380km (2100miles) on my 12 speed Cube eBike. Is that about it for chain wear or should I expect much more?
 

Mr. Coffee

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
A Demented Corner of the North Cascades
I get about 1500 miles on a chain. But I am riding in atrocious dirty and dusty conditions with many long, steep hills.

It really depends on wear you ride.
 

rich c

Well-Known Member
Chain wear is based on your maintenance schedule, your shifting method, how hard you ride, and terrain. I had a trekking bike that made it to 3,000 miles. But either measure the stretch or get a chain stretch measuring tool to check the wear. Go too long and you damage gears.
 

theemartymac

Well-Known Member
Drive can have an impact too. Hubs are often nicer on chains as the power doesn't go through them. Big Mids can shorten the life as the power is driven through the chain. My hub bike has the original chain and virtually no measurable wear at 2,000kms, while my mid has similar mileage and is on it's second chain now.
 

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
City
Mazovia, Poland
Why would you throw a chain away that still has more km life?
He would be more scared if he discovered the chain has been already stretched too much. My own experience with the first chain on my Vado: it cost me replacing the expensive cassette.
 

Mulezen

Well-Known Member
LBS last week put my first replacement chain on my allant 9 at 3500 miles. That was probably a few hundred late
The mechanic said the cassette could use replacing too but the micro-spine was unavailable
 

Bobber

Member
Region
USA
City
Charleston, Westfuckingvirginia
So I have a Bafang mid drive 1000 watt motor on my Specialized Crosstrail. I replaced the chain last year when I did the conversion and then replaced the chain and cassette ($90) about 5 months ago and now the bike tech said it needs both again. He showed me the stretch and how the gears are getting chewed up. He says he's seen lots of these issues lately with the bigger motors. The conversion only has 1800 miles and I'm kinda wondering if this is going to be an expensive continuing problem. Are you guys seeing this? And is there a stronger less stretchy chain?
FWIW My bike guy is really cool and doesn't charge me most times for things like gear adjustment. So I bring a six pack of craft beer for his trouble. 🍻
 

6zfshdb

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Northeast Pennsylvania
I find it's more economical to spend a bit more and use a quality e-bike rated chain like these from KMC:


I get almost twice the mileage with these chains if I clean & lube them a few times per season.
 

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
City
Mazovia, Poland
I had very unpleasant experiences with two chains I have recently bought:
  • Shimano CN-HG54 10s, 116L came without the connecting pin. Eventually, I bought the connecting pins from an LBS. These were not cheap!
  • KMC X10E, 10s, 114L... (Dedicated to e-bikes). It came with the master link. It turned out the chain was a tad too thick to accommodate the master link! I had to ask the LBS for help: the techie eventually connected the chain after a lot of huffing and puffing. Another KMC chain I used before could connect without any issue!
 

Cowlitz

Well-Known Member
I am at 4100 miles on mine and I ride on paved and dirt roads. I had no idea. I'll haul it over in the spring for a tuneup and ask the guys about it. I do clean and lube the chain often.
 

Bobber

Member
Region
USA
City
Charleston, Westfuckingvirginia
Hey 6ZF, that link takes me to a DLC12 chain that costs $140!!!! It must be made from the same gold used in Trump's toilet. :oops:
Or is there another chain that works? Like the E9 for only $50.
And Cow, did you do 4100 miles on 1 chain?
Thanks everybody.
 

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
City
Mazovia, Poland
I am at 4100 miles on mine and I ride on paved and dirt roads. I had no idea. I'll haul it over in the spring for a tuneup and ask the guys about it. I do clean and lube the chain often.
I replaced the chain in my Vado after 1 year and nearly 2,000 miles ridden. The chain was so stretched (1%) that it damaged two smallest cogs in the cassette.
I replaced the chain in my Vado SL after 5 months and 1,500 miles ridden. The chain was stretched to 0.5%, and its replacement protected the cassette that has been in use for 14 months.
 

6zfshdb

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Northeast Pennsylvania
Hey 6ZF, that link takes me to a DLC12 chain that costs $140!!!! It must be made from the same gold used in Trump's toilet. :oops:
Or is there another chain that works? Like the E9 for only $50.
And Cow, did you do 4100 miles on 1 chain?
Thanks everybody.
There are other chains on the KMC website. I wasn't sure which type you need. I have a 10 spd cassette and use this one for $49:

 

Rome

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
First time owner of Bafang 620, I have already replaced chain at 700 miles not out of necessity but for looks.
I hope I don't have to replaced cassette to often but I guess that's expected with these motors.
 

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PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Petaluma, CA
First time owner of Bafang 620, I have already replaced chain at 700 miles not out of necessity but for looks.
I hope I don't have to replaced cassette to often but I guess that's expected with these motors.
@Rome, that chain is a road bike race day chain. The side plates are see-through to reduce weight. It is not very strong. An X-Bridge would be much better. Yes, Kilowatt bikes will Kill-o-whatever drivetrain you install. Nine-speeds are robust and can still have a good range of gear selections. I would rather change a chain before I 'need' to, just like I would rather change my shorts before I 'need' to. Changing under cloths before you absolutely have to may be uneconomic but it makes life better. Just like changing the oil in a car on a advanced maintenance schedule.
 

duggie

Active Member
Region
United Kingdom
I'm a mechanical engineer. I would say, as a rule of thumb, clean the chain now and then. I take it off the wheel and let it dangle into a tub of petrol and swish it about to flush debris out and away, then put it back and use an engine oil. It's just common sense, grit will create a grinding paste. The time to change it will be when the cog shows significant 'hooking' wear, easy to spot, and so then change both the cogs and chain.