Controller Modification for more speed?

gembike223

New Member
I have a 20" model and I really like it , it has really really good range given the size of battery it has. however i think the fact that it has a sine-wave controller, it doesnt seem to "use" as much power even on assist level 5. i have a similarly powered bike and that one, is not sine-wave, and has more of a "jerk" at start but that also feels like i can gain to a top speed of ~27mph quickly/easily. on my 20" qualisports, i seem to peak out around around ~21mph. i CAN get to 27mph but i'd have to peddle extremely hard.

i wonder if theres a way to modify the controller to get more power than its currently set at?
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
THose look like mighty nice folders, with the batteries in the seat post tubes.

Controllers can be modified to increase the current, and that might increase acceleration if the battery can deliver the extra current., but top speed is not changed much, unless the original current setting was really low. In my opinion, you need to increase the battery voltage to go noticeably faster.
 

hamidlmt

New Member
I couldn't imagine the hamster wheel pedaling pace of going much past 20 mph on the Volador. But, you can modify the speed by changing a setting in the controller.
 

goldconch

Active Member
The Dolphin has a 52t crank chainring and a 14-28t rear freewheel (Shimano MF-TZ500-7). I'm going to swap out for a 11-28t rear cassette (Shimano HG41-7 $16), which should reduce the ridiculous "hamster wheel" pedaling cadence by about 20%.

EDIT 11 MARCH 2020: Please note, the Dolphin has a freewheel (Park tool 1.3) not a cassette. Don't buy the cassette! Arggghhh.
 
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iOsiris

New Member
The Dolphin has a 52t crank chainring and a 14-28t rear freewheel (Shimano MF-TZ500-7). I'm going to swap out for a 11-28t rear cassette (Shimano HG41-7 $16), which should reduce the ridiculous "hamster wheel" pedaling cadence by about 20%.

EDIT 11 MARCH 2020: Please note, the Dolphin has a freewheel (Park tool 1.3) not a cassette. Don't buy the cassette! Arggghhh.
I'm curious, did you ever end up upgrading? Does the Dolphin having a freewheel make it a lot more difficult to upgrade?
 

goldconch

Active Member
I'm curious, did you ever end up upgrading? Does the Dolphin having a freewheel make it a lot more difficult to upgrade?

Yes, @iOsiris, I did indeed. Freewheels and cassettes just attach differently to the hub and cassettes are the more common expectation these days. Same splined Park Tool. Otherwise, fairly straight forward DIY swap out and the 11t offers about a 20% reduction in crank rotation effort at wide open throttle. If anyone is doing this, I can walk you through removing the rear wheel, as it's a bit intimidating at first.

Not a lot of selection on 11t 7spd freewheels these days...Shimano doesn't make one anymore, and the only other one, DNP Epoch, only seems to come in nickel-plated cro-mo.

I also upgraded the crank from OEM 52t to a LitePro 53t (note: 56t and 58t won't clear the rear chainstay)...also a quick, cheap DIY if you have a crank puller tool in your toolbox.
 

Tinker

New Member
I had an issue with a pedal so this has prompted me to go ahead and switch the crank and freewheel. I would not know to do this without Goldconch's informative posts.
I ordered a different (Ithink) freewheel, it still says DNP but is supposedly e-bike specific. It's cheaper, which worries me, but has good reviews.
Worst thing is I end up ordering the other one. I'm in deep now.
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
That DNP is just more reasonably priced. With all the demand for them from the ebike crowd, prices were hitting 40 bucks, but I recall buying them for 30 bucks in 2017.

DNP, by the way, was never known for quality amongst bikers who bought them to get 11T. The many disparaging reviews scared me too, but they come from the Spandex crowd who put a heavy load on the drivetrain. I don't even know why Spandexers would even deign to ride a freewheel bike. Cassettes are so much more durable. Anyway, ebikers are mostly trying to keep their pedal speed up. Much less stress. I've got 2600 and 1700 miles respectively on the two I bought.
 

goldconch

Active Member
Thanks for the kind feedback @Tinker I will say, peddling is very comfortable with the 11t at 25mph and power assist 5. When there's no bike lane, I find it's much safer riding closer to the speed of traffic. Vehicles aren't feeling you are an obstruction to overcome anymore. They aren't anxiously riding your rear wheel, strategizing on where to overtake you, and generally give more space. That's safer for everybody in the long run. The 11t DNP freewheels suddenly got popular, I think they were sold out on Amazon a week or so ago. If you find a link that has them, feel free to post for others that might be looking.
 

Tinker

New Member
Thanks for the kind feedback @Tinker I will say, peddling is very comfortable with the 11t at 25mph and power assist 5. When there's no bike lane, I find it's much safer riding closer to the speed of traffic. Vehicles aren't feeling you are an obstruction to overcome anymore. They aren't anxiously riding your rear wheel, strategizing on where to overtake you, and generally give more space. That's safer for everybody in the long run. The 11t DNP freewheels suddenly got popular, I think they were sold out on Amazon a week or so ago. If you find a link that has them, feel free to post for others that might be looking.
You deserve the praise.
I think I read you're in NYC area, me too.
One quick question - I just read you swapped out for the kt lcd8h. Just wondered where you got it.
 

goldconch

Active Member
And... did you chase the cable back to the controller or splice it in at the handlebar?

@Tinker I ordered KT-LCD8H from pswpower on ebay last December (I think they might be sold out right now). Wherever you do source one, double check to make sure it's the version that comes with the USB charge port, lots of cable, and the "non-waterproof" KT controller box harness (ie. not the waterproof round green quick release). The Dolphins all come with the new Kunteng Controller software, so it's a straight plug and play swap in to the harness box for KT-LCD8H, or whatever cooler screen might succeed it. While those zip ties are all unclipped, it's also a good opportunity to tidy/straighten/compact the spaghetti mess of jumbled wires and cables with split tubing, sleeve, or bundler and then rezip to the frame. It looks much better afterwards.

...and yes, I am a former Manhattan resident (forever New Yorker) and normally a frequent visitor. Love that town.
 
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Tinker

New Member
@Tinker I ordered KT-LCD8H from pswpower on ebay last December (I think they might be sold out right now). Wherever you do source one, double check to make sure it's the version that comes with the USB charge port, lots of cable, and the "non-waterproof" KT controller box harness (ie. not the waterproof round green quick release). The Dolphins all come with the new Kunteng Controller software, so it's a straight plug and play swap in to the harness box for KT-LCD8H, or whatever cooler screen might succeed it. While those zip ties are all unclipped, it's also a good opportunity to tidy/straighten/compact the spaghetti mess of jumbled wires and cables with split tubing, sleeve, or bundler and then rezip to the frame. It'll looks much better afterwards.

...and yes, I am a former Manhattan resident (forever New Yorker) and normally a frequent visitor. Love that town.
@Tinker I ordered KT-LCD8H from pswpower on ebay last December (I think they might be sold out right now). Wherever you do source one, double check to make sure it's the version that comes with the USB charge port, lots of cable, and the "non-waterproof" KT controller box harness (ie. not the waterproof round green quick release). The Dolphins all come with the new Kunteng Controller software, so it's a straight plug and play swap in to the harness box for KT-LCD8H, or whatever cooler screen might succeed it. While those zip ties are all unclipped, it's also a good opportunity to tidy/straighten/compact the spaghetti mess of jumbled wires and cables with split tubing, sleeve, or bundler and then rezip to the frame. It'll looks much better afterwards.

...and yes, I am a former Manhattan resident (forever New Yorker) and normally a frequent visitor. Love that town.

Thanks a million. I had already thought of the split tubing when I was looking at the cable but hadn't explored where they terminate. You've really given me a lot of good info here.
Also thinking of upgrading the light and adding a powered rear light at some point.