Sorry, no offence intended @GoodairI assume that was a joke, right e-Wheels? Goodair is in a bit of a tiff with Bulls at the moment
That is a damn good looking bike, though, nice job!
It is kinda funny! I'm sure Bulls is going to get this right for Goodair - it is too big of a deal to not get right. Goodair mentioned the smaller distributors that are new to the market need to come up with some kind of network (along the lines of velofix...even using velofix, or local ebike dealers I guess) that can address things like a firmware update.
None of the sduro bikes have been a speed pedelec in the US yet...They probably have a few across the pond though.Clean conversion, good choices. Does the cross come with a 350w/28 mph set-up? A number of dealers have good closeout prices on the sduro line.
IRA, thats a nice looking bike, and thanks for your info, I like the science behind your answer. I picked the SDURO, for a few reasons, it was cheap to get into, I had the parts in my garage, but mainly I needed an extra battery and maybe a spare motor in the future, therefore, I explored this. The mid-drive system allows for me to use existing components to finish the build as simple as possible. I think the 500w (20% extra) might just get me there. I rode GMR, a famous roadie mountain course in SoCal, on a 20 mile ride, 10 miles uphill with an average of 10% grade, I finished the ride with 75% left. So, with a flatter Century ride, like the Amtrak Century, I think I can make it with a 500w pack. Will see in a few more months.It looks like the 16' Cross SM has a 400wh battery and if you are getting 70 miles per charge that is 5.71 wh/mi. Factoring in that you want more speed, which above 20 mph adds significant wind resistance, and any hills/headwinds on your route and only sporting a 118" high gear if you go to the 48t you will probably want to stay deep in the pack.
In order to do a century with a 500wh battery you would need to average 5 wh/mi which is very low consumption. Anything below 10 wh/mi I feel makes having the extra weight of a e system aboard not worth it and you might as well just go without.
My road e bike is a 52v/1000w 600wh battery and averaging in the low/mid 20mph range I average around 15 wh/mi dependent on terrain and wind.
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Personally I think that hub motors work better for road use than mid drive and having more watts on tap never hurts either. Instead of 28's pumped up to the max I prefer 40's with low of psi as I can get away with. Makes for a more supple ride and I don't really feel like it saps my mileage. But I do tend to transition between pavé, gravé and light trail work in the course of my rides.
No doubt you can make it as you have done centuries in the past and at the end of the day your bike looks to be plenty pedal able and if push comes to shove you can ditch your battery if it runs out to lighten the load. But it is just a matter if you will get much benefit from the e system only being able to use it intermittently or at a consistent low level versus the extra weight.I finished the ride with 75% left. So, with a flatter Century ride, like the Amtrak Century, I think I can make it with a 500w pack. Will see in a few more months.
Saw somewhere that it works with Yamaha motors to fix the magnet to the end of the crank arm and move the sensor to the outside of the chainstay. Not sure what it does to the readout but apparently adds speed.I need to make this thing faster, got the Speedbox from Euro, but did not work with the LED model, any suggestions. Planning to ride my first Century using an E-Bike, did it with a carbon, Ti, Al, and Vintage Steel, but never an E.... 500 watt battery should be enough....
I put this on my Trek XM 700 and it works great!I need to make this thing faster, got the Speedbox from Euro, but did not work with the LED model, any suggestions. Planning to ride my first Century using an E-Bike, did it with a carbon, Ti, Al, and Vintage Steel, but never an E.... 500 watt battery should be enough....