Cycle analyst/(Edit)Eggrider V2 over Bafang display? 52 volt battery….

JRA

Well-Known Member
"I run those on 2 other bikes we’ve built. Great little display."

Guess I could've dispensed with the sales pitch then. As a color display it is very easy to read in pretty much all light conditions didn't hurt my decision.
In my experience many displays suck at delivering accurate voltage.

Nah, really? And you would think it would an easy thing to present. But even the kind of standard battery shaped "gauge" on a CA3 reads wrong. It is possible to just get wh/mi from a CA3, how hard could it be for other displays?

But at least on my bike with both the 860c and 500c the actual voltage reading is pretty much right on. It matches the voltage measured by the Satiator upon starting a charge and ends up reading 54.4. I pay attention to the amount of ah's the battery used to calculate the wh's as v x ah = wh. And then I have a rough idea of how many wh's I have left at what voltage reading. So that's why the meter has to be in your head as well as knowledge of the terrain ahead and the time you have to get there.

There are really too many variables to expect any display to accurately tell you how many miles you will get out of a battery at the start of a ride, or even half way through a ride. Unless you are going at the same pace over the same terrain for the whole battery and there is no fun in that.
 

Mando

New Member
Region
USA
"I run those on 2 other bikes we’ve built. Great little display."

Guess I could've dispensed with the sales pitch then. As a color display it is very easy to read in pretty much all light conditions didn't hurt my decision.


Nah, really? And you would think it would an easy thing to present. But even the kind of standard battery shaped "gauge" on a CA3 reads wrong. It is possible to just get wh/mi from a CA3, how hard could it be for other displays?

But at least on my bike with both the 860c and 500c the actual voltage reading is pretty much right on. It matches the voltage measured by the Satiator upon starting a charge and ends up reading 54.4. I pay attention to the amount of ah's the battery used to calculate the wh's as v x ah = wh. And then I have a rough idea of how many wh's I have left at what voltage reading. So that's why the meter has to be in your head as well as knowledge of the terrain ahead and the time you have to get there.

There are really too many variables to expect any display to accurately tell you how many miles you will get out of a battery at the start of a ride, or even half way through a ride. Unless you are going at the same pace over the same terrain for the whole battery and there is no fun in that.
I think my plan is to order a 500c with the eggrider. If I don’t like the eggriderv2 I’ll put the 500c on and sell it. If I end up liking it I’ll keep it and upgrade the display on my dads e bike. I joined the eggrider Facebook page and see they’re having an issue with the mounting ring snapping under moderate pressure while tightening. Not stoked about that.
 

tomjasz

Well-Known Member
I think my plan is to order a 500c with the eggrider. If I don’t like the eggriderv2 I’ll put the 500c on and sell it. If I end up liking it I’ll keep it and upgrade the display on my dads e bike. I joined the eggrider Facebook page and see they’re having an issue with the mounting ring snapping under moderate pressure while tightening. Not stoked about that.
stc files for 3d printers are easy to find. Someone is selling a metallic solution. If you love it those issues are solvable. Complaints regarding breaking the mount aren’t as common as it may appear.
 

m@Robertson

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
The battery bar meter on it goes to empty at around 47v so that is worthless as the one on the 860c that came stock although it is a different format....so still using the ride and rithmatic method....with a little bit of luck added in.

Also my advice for anyone with a 27.5 plus bike is to set the wheel diameter for 28"es, not the 27.5 as it will be more accurate.
The battery meter on the 860 can be config'd to show voltage instead of percentage. The graphic is useless as it is on all displays. I replaced my 500C because it was not visible in the bright sun to my eyes. But beyond that it was really nice to have a smaller option.

Wheel diameter on all (?) displays is based on outer diameter with the tire, not the rim size. So for a 26" fat bike you want to go typically 29" on the display.

I have had pretty good luck with voltage level displays. Almost always good - particularly my KT-LCD3 and -8H displays - but I do have a DPC-18 that consistently reads one volt high. Super important to check. Think about what you could be doing charging to 100% if your readout is reading low and you are relying on the display. I always add a watt meter to each of my chargers - and check that meter for accuracy and mark how far its off - so I can independently verify what I'm doing during the charge cycle.
 

m@Robertson

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
There are really too many variables to expect any display to accurately tell you how many miles you will get out of a battery at the start of a ride, or even half way through a ride. Unless you are going at the same pace over the same terrain for the whole battery and there is no fun in that.
I don't know if you have seen it but there is a range remaining display if you cycle thru what the 860C can show you. Of course, its not going to be accurate but it does at least give you an idea. Stuff like this, though, reminds me of how I rode a bike for decades with no display and yet somehow I never missed having all the extra data.

I just set my display to read real-time voltage. Then at a stoplight, before I start back up again, I can get a pretty decent voltage reading. I've got a pretty good idea of usable volts remaining from these charts. I don't use watt hour calcs.

 

Mando

New Member
Region
USA
stc files for 3d printers are easy to find. Someone is selling a metallic solution. If you love it those issues are solvable. Complaints regarding breaking the mount aren’t as common as it may appear.
Thanks!
 

JRA

Well-Known Member
I don't know if you have seen it but there is a range remaining display if you cycle thru what the 860C can show you. Of course, its not going to be accurate but it does at least give you an idea. Stuff like this, though, reminds me of how I rode a bike for decades with no display and yet somehow I never missed having all the extra data.

I just set my display to read real-time voltage. Then at a stoplight, before I start back up again, I can get a pretty decent voltage reading. I've got a pretty good idea of usable volts remaining from these charts. I don't use watt hour calcs.

I did see that and pretty much immediately discounted it as fake info. I am just about there after 200 miles of being comfortable with what I can get away with and how far it will take me to do so. I just consider it part of the break in process and not the first bike I have done it with. Now I just have to remember which formula to use on which bike!
 

tomjasz

Well-Known Member
I gifted the 2 I had. After helping customers sort issues I became disappointed and just didn’t need to ever program on the fly.