Dash - Alternate rear rack.

Shea N Encinitas

Active Member
After reading this thread on fenders, and finding some rack info too, I set out to rear rack my 2nd battery (ordered today @ LBS :D). I spent an evening looking at how others installed various models and set out for similar parts, but with an open mind. After my 3rd trip to REI trying to pay in full for the 2nd battery, I decided the 10% 'credit' was not worth a 4th go and so my LBS got the business - shop local yall - ;)

While Ernie was ringing up my purchase I was all over the shop, awkward shopping size backpack on, bumping merch,.. side fitting various racks, you know eyeballing it. Then I spot these Electra racks and notice the seat stay bosses swoop down 'already' in comparison to those adjustable plate metal mounts that require moderate sculpting or the boss adapter on seatpost approach. So I bought the rack ($49) and had three screws in right there on the shop floor inside of a few minutes. I did have to ream out (lightly with a drill at home) the seat stay screw holes a bit, and there is some thread showing from 'plan view', but it feels nice and secure. Probably not for you side pannier tourist, but pretty good fit for the 2nd battery and a five dollar footy.

Shea_Electra_Rack_Notes_6631.jpg


I thought the Novara bag was 59 bucks like the little sign next to it, but it turns out to be a $79 unit, oh well at least it comes with a parachute! Now for those fenders, not because it ever rains here (I wish it would) but because of the sharp road junk those 45's keep throwing at my shins. Ordered the 38c's last night, racers directly from the Schwalbe website. No shipping options.

-Shea

EDIT: Usual 30 mile test ride, the bike is very slightly prone to shimmy with maybe a 15 lb load. I have previously gotten the bike to shimmy, or speed wobble (while not going very fast) by riding no hands and hitting a bump or inducing a vibration into the handlebars (don't try that at home), so it is not unheard of. Seemed a bit less prone without the single side pannier (small one) deployed and bungee-corded, but this could just be wishful thinking. Either way it is not a big change but a more rigid rack design may be advised for heavier loads - this is just for a battery.

EDIT2: (a week later) I'm not sure the Electra rack comes with the correct thread on the mounting screws. The Dash seems to be a metric size, like m5 for the smaller threaded bosses, m6 for the larger ones higher on the rear stays (which I used for the fender mounts). 10-28 is pretty close to m6, so be sure to double check the threads by hand threading into the bosses, maybe a tiny drop of grease. Home depot, Pep Boys both have good machine screw options.
 
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Shea N Encinitas

Active Member
So I moved the pack FWD about 6 inches to see if I could redistribute the weight some, made a nice little perch for my GoPro. Then I'm out in the flats and go into a tuck, a few minutes latter speed wobble! Not even much weight in the pack. I'm thinking the Electra rack is just too long, and lacking lateral stiffness from the open 7 design - bet it would even oscillate the bike with no load, maybe I will try that tomorrow. While a firm grip on the ample bars is enough to maintain control and recover from the shimmy (captured in backfacing video), this is kinda important to me, gotta be able to tuck. I think I may modify the rack, shorten the stays, reflatten & re-drill, or I can also see where a cross member could be installed, but that would probably be ugly.

-Shea
 

Pace

Member
may just be that rack design-- without a second vertical stay, it's not going to be as stiff. I don't have another battery on my rack, but my panniers often have 10-15+lbs and there's been no issue at speed (and this is with a rear wheel that I know needs truing up, I hope to take care of that this weekend).

I have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-1004115-MTN-1-Bicycle-Rack/dp/B000BNS2UG . I originally got it a while back for a 26" mtb, but it fits fine. Old Man Mountain racks are my favorite, have them on my tandems: http://www.oldmanmountain.com , they are a bit more expensive, but good load carriers and bulletproof. Tubus is also quite good.
 

Shea N Encinitas

Active Member
Hay pace, thanks for the links/info. This morning I drilled the 'drain' holes about an inch up thereby converting them into unsanctioned mounting holes. I even got to hammer some flats on the concrete porch anvil out front (that's drop forged, right ,jk.), redrilled the burs off (from hammering) and re-installed the rack. She sits more level now, but will the resonance frequency shift enough? Only a test ride can answer that one.

If it still wobbles in a tuck, TT position, then I might try a front mount, or get the backpack out, plastic wrap it to the top tube? Ok, I'm kidding around here but since I'm on a 17 inch Dash the standover height is pretty low, room for a 'gas tank' low - hopefully I don't have to go there but I'll keep an open mind. Could rebalance the weight up front by tossing that heavy 'entry level' fork for a light cro-mo rigid, then front rack the battery. Then again maybe all I need is a steering dampener?

BTW - I use a little dab of bike grease each time I get ready to drive the mounting screws in, run the screw in by hand first, then monkey the rack stays into position being careful not to cross thread the bosses.

Also, my 38c marathon racers will arrive today, looking forward to seeing how she rides on them. Schwalbe North America got them out fast, tnx guys.

-Shea
 
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Pace

Member
Since you like spend time tucked, take a look at the jones loop hbar (Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

I think that may be an upgrade I do at the end of the season.... It has a position to get forward and narrow for better aero, but you should be able to keep all the existing mtb brake and shift controls.
 

Shea N Encinitas

Active Member
Oh yeah, I like those bars, Tnx! Just spent about 3 hours working on the Dash, 'tested' dynamic balance of rim only, still pretty bad (2 quarters opposite began to balance, may post video later), mounted the 38c racers, then got into tensioning the spokes. After watching the video of that guy building a Falco wheel I was inspired, plus the front was getting loose.

I rode her w/o power to listen for any spoke pings, feels faster already,.. :cool: I will do my daily 30 loop this eve after commuter traffic cools down a bit. Maybe I can make it home with 3 bars, well maybe 2.

Thanks again for the link, now to see what they run. -S

Schwalbe-38c_X_45c_Tires_6644.jpg


EDIT: Just back from the 30 loop, while I did not gain distance I'm pretty sure it was because I was going faster, powering over a slight rise I might have otherwise down shifted for, a single gear higher in some cases. Overall the bike feels a lot more responsive, quicker to turn and dare I saw accelerate. Looks like I'll get the 45mm fenders because I'm loving these 38's.

BIG BTW; no speed wobbles! Now I've gone and monkeyed with too many things concurrently to pinpoint the cure, especially 1.5 hours of spoke tensioning and truing, whatever the voodoo, the wheels feel more gyroscopically stable. Even an induced bar vibration self corrected, so I'm happy. Was thinking about those bars while riding,.. and forks. -S
 
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