Derailleur adjustment after removing wheel


Well-Known Member
Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
7 speed freewheel here, but that shouldn't make much difference. Not sure what you have going on Timpo.

Clearly you know what you're doing, so 'prolly not that big a deal anyway.


Well-Known Member
There's a few variables that can add to poor shifting such as wear on components and even a dry chain.
Maybe try going a bit beyond settings suggested by Park tool.
I've found that if I follow it to the ť I will have poor shifting to the smallest and largest sprocket so I back out the limit screws a touch and all is better.
Also having a rear suspension I find that what is perfect in the stand doesn't always translate to perfect on the road and I need to tweak a hair.
That said I've had it running perfectly for months and then drop the wheel and have it off by a hair myself... So I know what you are talking about. Doesn't happen every time... But enough that I am aware of it.
Barrel adjustment on the shifter is my friend. 😊

reed scott

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That video Timpo posted ( and TomD on his Frey CC thread ) changed my life. The whole thing was a dark mystery until I went through that vid. 👍 😁

reed scott

Well-Known Member
Until we got our ebikes with front and rear through axles I just assumed it was mostly marketing hype; more stable, better control, etc, etc. For once, it's not hype. At this point in my life I am hard to impress, but these axles did it. No hype, just better...😎

Where'd you get your through Axel?


Well-Known Member
In my experience, once you take off your rear wheel, the derailleur will ALWAYS go out of adjustment. I can't think of a single case where I didn't have to re-adjust the derailleur.

Do you have quick release or through axle? Quick release can give trouble in positioning when put back.

Do you have play in your hub(when the wheel is secured try to move it side to side to see if there is)?