I have. Both the evelo Omega and Atlas are on the list (in fact, they might be the list). The omega is not readily available. The Atlas may be ( but stock could be gone, it was available yesterday to ship shortly ).Someone earlier in this thread mentioned Evelo bikes. I just got my Omega from Evelo and wanted to this bike would probably meet your requirements, at least most of them. It has belt drive with an Enviolo CVT hub. It also comes with Enviolo's Auotmatiq which shifts gears for you automatically. Just set your cadence and the Automatiq changes gears for you to keep you within that range. The only thing that seems to not meet your requirements is the motor. The motor is 750w, 115Nm mid-drive with torque and cadence sensors. But it is a Dapu which is a Japanese company. So far I've been really impressed with it. The bike comes with a 4-year warranty that covers frame, electronics, and motor. If you need service, they find a local bike shop and arrange for them to do the service. You might want to check them out.
Nope. Just can’t get it within acceptable risk to me. If my bike store were a dealer, I would have ridden the one I tried home if I could. I may not have been able to because of money. I have to wait for refunds on my currents if there isn’t a good enough loan option. That rules out nearly all bike stores until then. I used my own money on the currents, not a financing deal.Have you ruled out the Serial 1 bike based on your dislike of the pedaling experience? All 4 of those bikes you list above are high quality.
Completely agree. It’s yet another reason I haven’t simply abandoned specialized. As far as I can tell, they have the most complete read out system on the market. By quite a margin. And the system guides you to proper cadence. Etc. It’s genuinely what I consider to be the best bike for me. LBS support, best control system on the market and a strong reputation for quality products (not so much the company), and usually, spectacular financing.Mulling this whole situation over, a thought occurred to me. In that situation where you were admittedly pushing a highly loaded Current while trying to make a hill, there is no way on God's green earth you would know HOW HARD without a legible watt meter able to read the load on the motor in real time.
For that reason, my idea would be to eliminate any bikes on your "potential" list that did not have a watt meter built into the display. Seems to me, a bike that isn't equipped with a watt meter is like buying a car with no oil pressure or temp gauges, or even idiot lights for that matter.
What the hell are these bike manf's thinking?
Any experience with REI co-op bikes? (on sale now, and relatively easily obtainable).A big fan of Rad's when it comes to first bikes. They have an awesome reputation that transfers directly to the highest resale value of any.
Spoiled and picky though, so-
Not a fan of 20" wheels for any reason
and unless you're spending a lot of time riding fresh powder snow or beach sand,
Not a fan of fatties (like the Rover) either. These are huge bikes. They feel huge when you're riding them, and handling follows right along that line with a big heavy feel as well. Worse, unless you have them inflated to the point they're hard as a rock, pedal effort/rolling resistance is VERY noticable....
My vote would be for the City. It's a sturdy bike with little to be afraid of. Absolute worst case, you own it long enough where you can't return it, and assuming it's in good shape it will sell quickly for nearly what you paid for it due to it's popularity. Realizing full well that saying that put me way out on a limb, so please do some due dilligence on your own first....
I do have a "local" rei store. But it still presents the "how do I get the bike there if I need to" issue.None, though my understanding is they have pretty good local support if you have a local store. Post a link to the one that interests you. Should be plenty of feedback available....
The REI Member sale price is good for an ebike available in 3 sizes with decent tires, a front light that runs off the battery, and hydraulic disk brakes which should require less maintenance than manuals. According to the REI Q&A for the model it uses a 250w 36v Bafang G020 hub motor which offers modest power (45Nm) so you will be relying on the bicycle gearing to help you pedal up hills, it comes with an Altus derailleur, 42t chainring, and 14-34t cassette which ought to provide enough gear range to help just you ride up hills, but I would not recommend using it to tow your weehoo up steep hills.I do have a "local" rei store. But it still presents the "how do I get the bike there if I need to" issue.
These are all hub drive I think? Not sure there are comparable mid drive in the price point. Internet direct orders *are* on the table. But, for example, the rei pricing is dangerously close to a priority current for the mid drive. IN that case, I would just keep a current as a "beater". If I must get hub drive, then an REI e1.1 seems to make sense. They make a "city" and "cargo" version of this:
Co-op Cycles CTY e1.1 Electric Bike
A bit less than the rad city bikes (not sure of the differences between 3 and 4 besides the frame). Gonna compare them with the REI.