eBike Build - part1 - cable looms.

Best eBike light? Whats the consensus?

  • USB 5v + fuse + step down converter

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 8.4v + fuse + step down converter

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 60v + fuse connected to main battery

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1
Hey all,

I've been wanting to build an eBike for ages so finally started converting both my bike and my wife's at the same time to mid drive. (average avanti frames maybe 10 years old) I hated all the cables everywhere so started working out how to run internal looms. Im running the control looms, and power for lights, either 48v, 12v or 8.4v, not sure at this stage. Also going to run waterproof marine usb to power phone etc straight from handlebars.

Anyways would be great to share ideas with others! enjoy pics!
 

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Ann M.

Well-Known Member
Quite a project, Richard! One suggestion, check out Grin Tech lights. They have a number of options that can operate on 12V to 110V input and some that can be plugged directly into a Cycle Analyst. A good starting point.
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
Bold moves. I tapped two small holes in an aluminum frame for a water bottle and later regretted it, being prone to worry about frame failures.

I have 8.4V Cree type lights. They run off a 4 cell li-ion battery pack. Those things are wretched. No circuit protection. Bare batteries could flame up any time. I now run them off a 9V AC power converter brick. I think it's 2A. Not quite as bright, but good enough. A good brick with a decent switching supply will run off my bike battery.
 
Bold moves. I tapped two small holes in an aluminum frame for a water bottle and later regretted it, being prone to worry about frame failures.

I have 8.4V Cree type lights. They run off a 4 cell li-ion battery pack. Those things are wretched. No circuit protection. Bare batteries could flame up any time. I now run them off a 9V AC power converter brick. I think it's 2A. Not quite as bright, but good enough. A good brick with a decent switching supply will run off my bike battery.
Haha yes I was worried about frame failures too! I took the frames to an aluminium repair expert and was given the all clear, the main concern would be closeness to welds and cracks. Ironically cheaper slightly heavier tube bikes are better for this kind of thing as they use thick tubing. I also kept temperature down when drilling, taped the area to avoid cracks, and primer painted the holes to stop water getting under the original finish. I'll also be sealing the rubber grommets with Sugru!