Well one place the mid drive might actually help is pulling away from a stop, since if your kit is like mine it takes a little bit of pedaling before the pas kicks in right? It could be that my magnet disc isn't quite aligned right- I had it mounted on an octalink bottom bracket and had to drill out the middle to make it fit and strayed a little bit off center, sigh. Going to "upgrade" to a normal square taper this week so I have more crank options
Lot's of amperage/wattage great for accelerating to speed or climbing, but a huge waste once that speed or the top of the hill is achieved. Unless the start and finish lines were very close together, "getting there first" might be a chalenge many with much less power might take you up on.....
Point being, there is a point where "over kill" comes into play, to my way of thinking anyway. -Al
Oh, I definitely hit overkill a while ago on Weapons Grade. My Trek 700c EBike is the practical bike. Weapons Grade is an ongoing experiment (in insanity).
I might enjoy the process of building and tweaking ebikes even more than riding them.
(If I cared about battery life efficiency, I’d just turn off/down the front hub on Weapons Grade and suffer through a 27 MPH cap instead of 35 with mediocre torque.)
It’s draining about 52 amps between front and back when floored. At most, it drains half that when only the rear is floored. I might increase my top speed 20-25% for cutting my battery life in half. Not an efficient trade, but I do a ton of starting and stopping on my daily commute that’s a pretty short round trip.
Just purchased an ebikeling 1200w rear hub and wanted a battery on the bottom tube not a triangle. any suggestion on a battery vendor or specific seller? I'm looking for a 48v (or52v?) 15-17ah that will fit on a dolomite frame. Originally i was going to do a rear rack battery but after reading these forums decided that the shock will have too much impact on the battery and F-up the weight distribution as well. thanks for any advice from this learned gang.