Ecotric 810LED/Controller Upgrade

harryS

Well-Known Member
This is for the 36V Ecotric fat tire 20" folding ebike with the 810LED display,

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Some more details about how I would change the 36V Ecotric controller with 810LED display to a KT controller. Looking at it from the objective of keeping the bike connectors the same, so the original controller could be replaced if desired.

First, here is the Ecotric controller with most of the original connectors.
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Next, here's a KT controller, very similar to the 20A sinewave controller I used. You would buy it with a compatible LCD display. While it has the same connector functions, most of them will use a different plug and the wire order and wire colors might change. WHile you can use any KT controller, you might want one that fits in the original compartment on the 20" fat tire folding ebike, That would be the smaller 17A and 20A KT controllers.

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To keep the bike connectors untouched, the connectors on the KT controller are changed. I would recommend buying the next set of connectors. This would be
-one 6 pin JST connector (female),
-two 2 pin JST (male) connectors,
-optionally two 3 pin JST connector (male/female.)

COnnectors_needed.jpg
These are usually sold with both male/female pairs, with leads attached and in bundles of 5 or more. You can actually re-use the 3 pin connectors from the KT controller. Described below.

The project involves cutting off connectors from the KT controller, and splicing in different ones. It involves electrical skills like soldering and insulating wires. It requires electrical knowledge, as there is high power DC voltages in your ebike. Remove the battery before you do anything.

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1. POWER
The power connections should be the same, but if you cannot figure out the red and black wires, this upgrade is not for you. Power is almost always a red and a black wire, sometimes with a connector supplied, like the yellow XT60, or often with bullet connectors. You may eveb get two bare wires.

power_1.jpg

2. DISPLAY
You will remove the 810LED and its cable. Your new LCD, if purchased with the KT display, will plug right in. It's the only 5 pin connector. I like the LCD3, shown here, but others like the color version poabb;y work nice too.

display.jpg

3.. MOTOR Phases
These are the thick green, blue, and yellow wires with bullet connectors. You'll find the same wires on both the Ecotric and KT controller, along with bullet connectors. Match the colors and connect.

phase_1.jpg

4. MOTOR sensor

Cut this white 2x3 connector off the KT controller. Find your six pin JST connector.
big_plug.jpg jst_six-female.jpg

The colors on the JST do not matter, but the positions do.
blue - position 1 (Hall sensor)
green - position 2 (Hall sensor)
yellow - position 3 (Hall sensor)
black - position 4 (Ground)
white - position 5 (Speed sensor)
red - position 6 (5 volts)

Wire the six wires from the controller to the 6 pin JST using the above guide, per the figure below.. Note that the notch on the connector is facing upwards in this diagram,

connector 3.jpg
When this 6 pin JST is plugged into the matching connector on the Ecotric motor harness, you should see the colors on the original KT harness matching up to the wires from the motor. White to White, Red-Red, Black-Black, Yellow-Yellow, Green-Green, and Blue to Blue.

You might have noticed that this connector on the Ecotric controller did not use the white wire position. Happily for us, the Ecotric motor supports a speed sensor on the white wire, not used on the Ecotric controller but very important for the KT controller.



5. THROTTLE & PEDAL SENSOR

These are the two three wire plugs as shown on the above KT controller. I suggest cutting them off and re-using them as follows. The Ecotric bike harness uses a male plug for the throttle, and a female receptacle for the pedal sensor. The KT controller was different, so one can just switch the connectors and order the wires to match the signal position.

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Some KT controller provide a third three pin connector,which is for an external speed sensor. It's not on the above photo. It's usually a white,red, black wire combination. Just ignore it if you have one.


6. BRAKES

The brake circuit in the Ecotric 20" folding fat bike is a switch that closes when the lever is pulled. The KT controller is designed for that, but it is also designed for three wire brakes that use power, so it has a a pair of three wire JST plugs. Cut these off. Carefully wrap the red wire because that is 5 volt power. Then connect the two remaining wires to the 2 pin JST plug you bought. There are two of these and they are in parallel.

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That's about what I remember. I actually did mine different. I kept the connectors on the KT controller the same, except for the brake connectors and motor connector, and I changed the PAS and throttle plugs on the bike harness to fit.

I won't discuss how to program the LCD. That depends on which unit you purchased.

As a resource, here is a description of the KT connectors and also what Ecotric has released in their generic owners manual for the Ecotric wiring.

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DISCLAIMER: This is not a tutorial. It is a discussion how I would modify a KT controller. I have not actually done the above because i chose to modify the Ecotric harness instead of the controller harness, so there may be items I did not consider. Not responsible for differences in wiring or wire colors made by either Ecotric or KT. I can only describe what I had.

Proceed at your own risk.
 
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Phrogman63

New Member
So Harry, did you actually do this mod yet. My wife's 20" folder has a crazy fast PAS level 1. Does this mod give you better PAS at the low end?
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
Yes, but I changed the connectors on the bike instead of changing them on the new controller. This being the controller I used.


I only bought it with the LCD, but one could add the throttle (left hand), brake levers, and PAS sensor for another 12-14 dollars, and then the only connector to change would be the Hall sensor. You don't need the speed sensor. The LCD8 adds color, but I've never used it,

There are a lot of other controllers and displays that will work, but not many that fit in the box under the pedals with 20A capability.

The LCD3 gives 5 PAS levels, and level 1 is slower than the level 1 on the 810LED. Maybe 10 mph instead of 14 mph.
 

Phrogman63

New Member
Yes, but I changed the connectors on the bike instead of changing them on the new controller. This being the controller I used.


I only bought it with the LCD, but one could add the throttle (left hand), brake levers, and PAS sensor for another 12-14 dollars, and then the only connector to change would be the Hall sensor. You don't need the speed sensor. The LCD8 adds color, but I've never used it,

There are a lot of other controllers and displays that will work, but not many that fit in the box under the pedals with 20A capability.

The LCD3 gives 5 PAS levels, and level 1 is slower than the level 1 on the 810LED. Maybe 10 mph instead of 14 mph.
Thanks so much. We bought the the bike for assisted exercise but right now it's an electric moped. Sounds pretty do-able. I really appreciate your post and response.
 

dhealys

New Member
great post harry, do you know if the more advanced model such as the hammer have the same controller, or is this the same for all their models.
 

Phrogman63

New Member
Pretty sure only a couple of the folding bikes have the 810LED/Controller. Most others including the Hammer have the S900LCD display and a better controller. If you look at the pics on the Ecotric website and the YouTube reviews, you can see what they have. Also Harry, I ordered a KT sine wave controller and KT LCD3 display a couple weeks ago. They just came into San Francisco a couple days age, so hopefully I'll get them soon! I'll let you know how it goes.
 

Phrogman63

New Member
Just finished my 810LED upgrade. I used a KT36SVPRD-SJT02L controller with the KT LCD3 display.
I tried to order from PSWPower, but their checkout wasn't working for U.S. shipping. So I ordered from Amazon.
The PSWPower site is currently working again by the way.

KT36SVPRD.jpgKT36SVPRD-SJT02L.jpg

I only had a couple minor problems during the conversion. First the JST connectors that were ordered from china had not arrived, so I swapped the motor connector from the old controller. The problem was that there wasn't a pin for the white 'speed sensor' wire, so I soldered in a tap to the bike side wire and connected it to the KT wire with a pair of spade terminals. I can fix it when the new connectors arrive. Other than that, I swapped the PAS and Throttle connectors on the KT controller and changed the battery connections to spade terminals. The brake connections matched up perfectly

The biggest problem was getting Pedal Assist to work. Long story short, I had to set C1 to 00.
Apparently my bike has a 5 magnet PAS sensor; none of the other settings woulds work.

Here is a link to the KT LCD3 manual if anyone wants to familiarize themselves with it.


If it helps, here are the settings that I used:
Wheel Size 23" P1 100 P2 5 P3 1 P4 0 P5 15
C1 00 C2 0 C3 0 C4 0 C5 10 C6 4 C7 1 C8 1 C9 0 C10 N
C11 0 C12 4 C13 0 C14 3

Overall, the upgrade turned out great. The bike performance couldn't be better. More PAS control with better sensitivity, smooth thottle acceleration (you can actually precisely control your speed for any given PAS level). One really cool thing about this controller is the 'Cruise' fuction. By settting C7 to 1, the cruise is enabled. So anytime your moving 7mph or above, hold the 'up' button for 3sec and the cruise takes over,no pedaling or throttle required!

Thanks again HarryS for making this post!!
 
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harryS

Well-Known Member
I am glad you got it working!

If you set C4 to 3, I believe you can have throttle available in PAS 0. It's a new way to ride, but I only have it working that way on my 26" fat tire bike, as a bump of the throttle while walking the bike and it does a wheelie. Kind of unsafe,
 

Phrogman63

New Member
Nah not for me or my wife. When I put my 26" fat tire together, I accidentally put it in walk mode and just about sent it through the wall. By the way, my wife took her folder for its' first ride after the mod today. She absolutely loves it!
 

Rynerr

New Member
Just finished my 810LED upgrade. I used a KT36SVPRD-SJT02L controller with the KT LCD3 display.
I tried to order from PSWPower, but their checkout wasn't working for U.S. shipping. So I ordered from Amazon.
The PSWPower site is currently working again by the way.

View attachment 55713View attachment 55714

I only had a couple minor problems during the conversion. First the JST connectors that were ordered from china had not arrived, so I swapped the motor connector from the old controller. The problem was that there wasn't a pin for the white 'speed sensor' wire, so I soldered in a tap to the bike side wire and connected it to the KT wire with a pair of spade terminals. I can fix it when the new connectors arrive. Other than that, I swapped the PAS and Throttle connectors on the KT controller and changed the battery connections to spade terminals. The brake connections matched up perfectly

The biggest problem was getting Pedal Assist to work. Long story short, I had to set C1 to 00.
Apparently my bike has a 5 magnet PAS sensor; none of the other settings woulds work.

Here is a link to the KT LCD3 manual if anyone wants to familiarize themselves with it.


If it helps, here are the settings that I used:
Wheel Size 23" P1 100 P2 5 P3 1 P4 0 P5 15
C1 00 C2 0 C3 0 C4 0 C5 10 C6 4 C7 1 C8 1 C9 0 C10 N
C11 0 C12 4 C13 0 C14 3

Overall, the upgrade turned out great. The bike performance couldn't be better. More PAS control with better sensitivity, smooth thottle acceleration (you can actually precisely control your speed for any given PAS level). One really cool thing about this controller is the 'Cruise' fuction. By settting C7 to 1, the cruise is enabled. So anytime your moving 7mph or above, hold the 'down' button for 3sec and the cruise takes over,no pedaling or throttle required!

Thanks again HarryS for making this post!!

Hi Phrogman63, I read your post about buying from Amazon, but I am having problems finding the 500 watt system from Amazon. I found a 350 watt system but from what I read, it will not work on the ecotric 20" fat bike. When I look on the PSW Power site it seems to have a lot of choices and I am not sure exactly what to order. I feel comfortable with electronics, but I am completely lost when it comes to electric bikes and controllers. Could you possibly send me a link to the correct amazon item or what I should be ordering from PSW Power? I would really appreciate it. My 810 controller is useless for my wife. Thanks
 

Phrogman63

New Member
Rynerr here are the links to the KT36SVPRD-SJT02L controller with the KT LCD3 display that I bought:


This controller is 36v only, the one HarryS used is the KT36/48SVPR-20A and is for 36 or 48v and is at this link:


They both are the same size wired exactly the same, so if you ever want to switch to 48v I would suggest the pswpower one. Also, HarryS has posted and replied to a couple other posts about this same mod:



Hope this helps