Ergon GP3, or The Ultimate Bike Grip (Hand Position Tutorial)

theemartymac

Active Member
Grips are like saddles. There really is no perfect grip as everyone's hands are different and everyone's riding position and forward weight will be different.
I used the Ergon GP2's for years and just recently switched to the Ergon GX1.
Any grip that makes your riding more comfortable and reduces ulnar nerve discomfort will be the ultimate grips

Not sure if any of you are doing this but try loosening the grip collar a little bit. Don't torque them down where the grips won't move.
Torque them down to approx 2/3 nm vs the normal 4/5 nm. Allow the grips to pivot/turn a bit under medium force.
This will allow you to pivot the grips slightly as you ride and your ulnar nerve may not suffer as much on prolonged hand positions.
Put a dab of threadlocker on the bolt and it won't loosen and fall out. You will know ahead of time when the bolt gets too loose as the grips move too freely.
Thanked my doctor for this tip as he is also a long time cyclist.
I do find it surprising that with all the quick releases and adjustability we have on new bikes, that none of the big names have developed tool-less adjustable grips. Seems like a useful approach.
 
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FlatSix911

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Silicon Valley
Agreed, a simple small QR/clamp mechanism might work and help with quick easy change of hand positions.
View attachment 71680
Here's a simple diagram.
For those with really tight grip housings try squirting a tiny bit of dry lube inside the grip cylinder before inserting.
The first position at 110' is shown as an example of what not to do...;)
The second position @ 148' is recommended for reducing wrist strain.

1605654339810.png
 
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reed scott

Well-Known Member
Just ordered the GP5 grips from amazon. Really long delivery estimate though.

Added: I liked the idea of the cork ones but one guy put up pics on Amazon of what happened to his within six months ( separation and generally effed up ) so I got the rubber ones.
 
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reed scott

Well-Known Member
Those are 'inner' bar ends, and that's the style SQL has decided to run with. Ergon does the more traditional outer bar ends.

I have the ergon gp5's on my Rize X (the giant ones). I like them well enough, and the bar end itself is quite nice, solid, and comfortable, BUT I don't like the main grip quite as much as the 'anatomical' contoured style like the SQL. I find I get a few more miles on the contoured grips before any numbness starts, and the shape feels more 'locked-in' to me. I actually quite like the stock Velo VLG contoured grips, and I find them quite comfortable, but they lack a bar end. While Velo does make a bar end model, it's one-piece at a fixed angle, so that's out for me.


I suspect I will put the SQL 702 Trekking on my newer RX Pro, along with a set of inner bar ends to try that out for my occasional commutes to work (20+km each way). The other reason I want to try the inner bar ends, is that I think I can still do a little mild braking from that position easier than with the outer bar ends. Either way, the Rize bikes come with a generous 3 finger brake lever and a wide ~700mm bar, so moving them inboard an inch will still let me two-finger brake the way I like. If you already have stubby brake levers or narrower bars, it may not be quite as easy to fit everything on the bar.
Thanks for the link. :)
 

Art Deco

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Selinsgrove
How is copying someone else's patent and design called in English? 🙄
Not really Fraud but not legal either. A patent violation? If you copy
the logo it's counterfeit.
Civil vs Criminal Courts over here.
 

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
City
Brwinów (PL)
I could see a YT review of counterfeit pedals that looked exactly like Race Face Chester... Not the same quality though.
 

Akrotiri

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
Or just plain FAKES

Typically a quarter to a third of the price, all reversed engineered with no design or development needed, no expensive marketing. Often 80% of the product for 25% the price. Morally wrong and i wouldn;t go near anything like carbon bars/stems/seats from such sellers
Totally agree. I think the counterfeit components are dangerous. Not worth the savings.
 

Alvin1957

Member
Region
USA
City
Midlothian, TX
In the self-styled way, I acclaim the Ergon GP3 the best bike grips ever made! :) Some tips will follow:

Proper Setup

View attachment 61989
First of all, the GP3 come in two sizes. Buy the Large variety only in case you have really large hands. The Ergons might be too wide to fit your gadget-crammed handlebars, and it is also better not to change the brake lever position. If you still see the yellow interior of the grip after you have slid it fully onto the handlebar, you need to shorten the grip. Use a very sharp knife to shorten the grip -- and be cautious to not cut your fingers! (You have been warned) :) No yellow part should be visible with the properly slid grip. The wrist supports should point slightly upwards. Add the bar-ends. The angle is your choice, with 30-45 degrees being the most reasonable. Tighten the screw at 5 Nm. Again: No yellow part should be visible inside!

View attachment 61990
The "normal" or "safety" hand position. Use it while riding with traffic or on crowded bike or multiple-use paths.

View attachment 61991
Modern e-MTBs sport the "1-finger" brake levers; modern commuter e-bikes have the "2-finger" brake levers. Never place more fingers than necessary on the lever. While riding in a crowded area, rest your finger(s) on brake levers in a relaxed way; you don't want to make your fingers tired but you might want to brake rather fast.



View attachment 61992
The "steering-wheel" or "trail" hand position. That's what makes the Ergons so great. You delicately rest your three fingers on the bar-end, while your thumb and little finger ensure a proper hold. You steer your e-bike as you were operating your car's steering wheel. That hand position is proper for very long rides and ensures the best control over the bike even in very rough terrain. The benefits:
  • The hand doesn't get tired or numb (people with carpal tunnel syndrome will be delighted)
  • You exercise the perfect control over your bike, especially with wide handlebars
  • In rough terrain, you just tighten your grip a little bit for even better steering control
  • During "washboard" sections of gravel roads, ease the hand-grip. The bar-end will travel vertically among your fingers, providing rapid-vibration protection to your hands -- especially, owners of rigid-fork e-bikes will be happy!
I just want to tell you that I ride over 90% my long trips in the "trail" hand position. Specifically, uphill ride is extremely easy with that hand position. Note: You can move your hands to the "safety" position instantly, as the bar-ends are small.

View attachment 61993
The "Easy Rider" hand position. Use on a very long ride in safe environment when you are really tired. Rest your wrist and thumb on the wrist-support. The part of the palm near to the little finger shall rest where the bar-end-plug is normally located.

Falling with Your Bike

View attachment 61994
There are two survival techniques, shall your bike fall:
  1. Jump off the bike as graciously as Bambi would do it :) and let the bike fall between your legs (It requires a long practice);
  2. Provided you're wearing the helmet, move your hands instantly to the "safety position" and just fall together with your e-bike. Your hands shall be on the grips and your feet shall stay planted on the pedals! Your head will probably hit the ground but it's protected. You might get some bruises. But your limbs won't get broken and the hands won't be damaged, as the latter are protected by the GP3 bar-end. Trust me: I know the best how to fall with the bike. The stains of sun-molten asphalt on my Trance E+ right-hand GP3 bar-end are the proof. The grip and my helmet took the most of the impact. And I have fallen with my bikes many times before I mastered the (1) technique :D
Ride safely!
Hello Stefan,
I'm an extreme fan of the Ergon GP-3. I think they are better than the GP-5 (Have used both). Infinitely better than the 'sort of ergonomic' grips that came on my Explore. The Ergon biocork or whatever it is has a much better feel than the checkered rubber it replaced. I normally ride with gloves but on the few times that I went gloveless (foolish), sweaty palms didn't really present a problem. Have tried various other brands and found them wanting. To that point, don't waste time on rubber cylindrical grips.
 

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
City
Brwinów (PL)
Alvin, I don't mind the rubber GP3s but I'm glad you've found your choice with the cork. To be clear, I only wear gloves in the wintertime.
 

Alvin1957

Member
Region
USA
City
Midlothian, TX
Alvin, I don't mind the rubber GP3s but I'm glad you've found your choice with the cork. To be clear, I only wear gloves in the wintertime.
Hello Stefan,
I'm new at posting anything so I am not sure where the following should be posted. I am going to recommend a product not related to grips since this made a huge difference in my riding (and my wife). Both of have toes and feet that go numb regardless of LBS attempts to adjust the cockpit arrangement. We finally went back to how we rode as kids. I highly recommend pedals from PEDALING INNOVATIONS. Puts the foot further forward so that the axle is directly under the arch. Takes all the pressure off various nerves and blood vessels. Of course the seat position and angle need to be right. Where numbness would set it after 30 to 90 minutes we can spend 8 to 10 in the saddle hours without issue. We have them on five machines. I know that there are other wide platforms on the market. I think that these are about the longest front to back. Very slip resistant and come with 2 sets of grub screws. This is a far more pleasant solution than trying different shoes and narrower pedals that target the ball of the foot. Very compatible with almost any shoe that doesn't have an old style heel. Sneakers, running shoes, sandals, work shoes like those from New Balance all work very well. I just suggest that people give them a look.
 

iabob

Member
Nice write up. I went from stock round grips to Ergon GP2’s and loved them. But I used the two finger horns basically for a modified “easy rider” position, just to change my grip from time to time. That provided such good use that I decided to try the 3’s as well. I like them even better!
 

minigrrl

Member
I have the Brooks Ergon GP1s. I do move my hands around a lot and hold them on the ends quite often. (I may get horns at some point, but for now these are working fine). Totally stopped my hand numbness. And more importantly, they match my Brooks saddle and look awesome!

8B47CEB2-016B-4A0A-92E3-4BE59CBD0ADF.jpeg
 

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
City
Brwinów (PL)
I'm new at posting anything so I am not sure where the following should be posted.
Perhaps here?

Alvin, I hear you. My legs (and especially feet) suffer from inadequate circulation. My answer is CrankBrothers Stamp (1 or 7) Large pedals. These are so large, I can easily change my feet position on the pedals as I please... :)
 

Akrotiri

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
Can someone tell me how to adjust the grip part ( not the bar end). My grip on the left isn’t exactly on the same parallel axis as the right hand side grip so my left hand is angled a couple of mm lower than my right when riding.The grip on the right is exactly how I like it , parallel to the ground. Been meaning to adjust this lately and figured I’ll get it done now that rain is in the forecast for next few days.

Do I have to remove the bar end part first or simply loosen it and then adjust the grip? When I purchased these I had the LBS install them. Any help much appreciated.
 

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
City
Brwinów (PL)
There is only a single bolt per a grip serving both the grip and bar-end. Loosen delicately until you can rotate the grip itself. Re-tighten with feeling.
Ergon GP3.jpg

The bolt tightens the main grip clamp but also allows rotating the bar-end.