Ergon GP3, or The Ultimate Bike Grip (Hand Position Tutorial)

Grips are like saddles. There really is no perfect grip as everyone's hands are different and everyone's riding position and forward weight will be different.
I used the Ergon GP2's for years and just recently switched to the Ergon GX1.
Any grip that makes your riding more comfortable and reduces ulnar nerve discomfort will be the ultimate grips

Not sure if any of you are doing this but try loosening the grip collar a little bit. Don't torque them down where the grips won't move.
Torque them down to approx 2/3 nm vs the normal 4/5 nm. Allow the grips to pivot/turn a bit under medium force.
This will allow you to pivot the grips slightly as you ride and your ulnar nerve may not suffer as much on prolonged hand positions.
Put a dab of threadlocker on the bolt and it won't loosen and fall out. You will know ahead of time when the bolt gets too loose as the grips move too freely.
Thanked my doctor for this tip as he is also a long time cyclist.
I do find it surprising that with all the quick releases and adjustability we have on new bikes, that none of the big names have developed tool-less adjustable grips. Seems like a useful approach.
 
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MMC

Active Member
I do find it surprising that with all the quick releases and adjustability we have on new bikes, that none of the big names have developed tool-less adjustable grips. Seems like a useful approach.
Agreed, a simple small QR/clamp mechanism might work and help with quick easy change of hand positions.

ErgonPivotLimits.jpg

Here's a simple diagram.
For those with really tight grip housings try squirting a tiny bit of dry lube inside the grip cylinder before inserting.
 

FlatSix911

Well-Known Member
Agreed, a simple small QR/clamp mechanism might work and help with quick easy change of hand positions.
View attachment 71680
Here's a simple diagram.
For those with really tight grip housings try squirting a tiny bit of dry lube inside the grip cylinder before inserting.
The first position at 110' is shown as an example of what not to do...;)
The second position @ 148' is recommended for reducing wrist strain.

1605654339810.png
 
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reed scott

Well-Known Member
Just ordered the GP5 grips from amazon. Really long delivery estimate though.

Added: I liked the idea of the cork ones but one guy put up pics on Amazon of what happened to his within six months ( separation and generally effed up ) so I got the rubber ones.
 
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reed scott

Well-Known Member
Those are 'inner' bar ends, and that's the style SQL has decided to run with. Ergon does the more traditional outer bar ends.

I have the ergon gp5's on my Rize X (the giant ones). I like them well enough, and the bar end itself is quite nice, solid, and comfortable, BUT I don't like the main grip quite as much as the 'anatomical' contoured style like the SQL. I find I get a few more miles on the contoured grips before any numbness starts, and the shape feels more 'locked-in' to me. I actually quite like the stock Velo VLG contoured grips, and I find them quite comfortable, but they lack a bar end. While Velo does make a bar end model, it's one-piece at a fixed angle, so that's out for me.


I suspect I will put the SQL 702 Trekking on my newer RX Pro, along with a set of inner bar ends to try that out for my occasional commutes to work (20+km each way). The other reason I want to try the inner bar ends, is that I think I can still do a little mild braking from that position easier than with the outer bar ends. Either way, the Rize bikes come with a generous 3 finger brake lever and a wide ~700mm bar, so moving them inboard an inch will still let me two-finger brake the way I like. If you already have stubby brake levers or narrower bars, it may not be quite as easy to fit everything on the bar.
Thanks for the link. :)
 

MMC

Active Member
The first position at 110' is shown as an example of what not to do...
The second position @ 148' is recommended for reducing wrist strain. ;)
If you look at all the installed grips on this forum you will see many have their grips installed at that 1st position, which forces their wrist position to sit at that degree.
Even at 2nd position the downward weight for prolonged periods will cause ulnar nerve discomfort.
Slight pivots of the grips platform allows your downforced weight to shift and move so less discomfort
A pivoting grip works for me as I don't have those bull-horns on my grips
I should also not that for me that 1st position is not fixed. With free movement the weight always changes.
 
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Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
I could see a YT review of counterfeit pedals that looked exactly like Race Face Chester... Not the same quality though.
 

Akrotiri

Active Member
Or just plain FAKES

Typically a quarter to a third of the price, all reversed engineered with no design or development needed, no expensive marketing. Often 80% of the product for 25% the price. Morally wrong and i wouldn;t go near anything like carbon bars/stems/seats from such sellers
Totally agree. I think the counterfeit components are dangerous. Not worth the savings.