I do find it surprising that with all the quick releases and adjustability we have on new bikes, that none of the big names have developed tool-less adjustable grips. Seems like a useful approach.Grips are like saddles. There really is no perfect grip as everyone's hands are different and everyone's riding position and forward weight will be different.
I used the Ergon GP2's for years and just recently switched to the Ergon GX1.
Any grip that makes your riding more comfortable and reduces ulnar nerve discomfort will be the ultimate grips
Not sure if any of you are doing this but try loosening the grip collar a little bit. Don't torque them down where the grips won't move.
Torque them down to approx 2/3 nm vs the normal 4/5 nm. Allow the grips to pivot/turn a bit under medium force.
This will allow you to pivot the grips slightly as you ride and your ulnar nerve may not suffer as much on prolonged hand positions.
Put a dab of threadlocker on the bolt and it won't loosen and fall out. You will know ahead of time when the bolt gets too loose as the grips move too freely.
Thanked my doctor for this tip as he is also a long time cyclist.
The first position at 110' is shown as an example of what not to do...
Thanks for the link.Those are 'inner' bar ends, and that's the style SQL has decided to run with. Ergon does the more traditional outer bar ends.
I have the ergon gp5's on my Rize X (the giant ones). I like them well enough, and the bar end itself is quite nice, solid, and comfortable, BUT I don't like the main grip quite as much as the 'anatomical' contoured style like the SQL. I find I get a few more miles on the contoured grips before any numbness starts, and the shape feels more 'locked-in' to me. I actually quite like the stock Velo VLG contoured grips, and I find them quite comfortable, but they lack a bar end. While Velo does make a bar end model, it's one-piece at a fixed angle, so that's out for me.
Ergon GP5 Grips, Large: Amazon.ca: Sports & Outdoorswww.amazon.ca
I suspect I will put the SQL 702 Trekking on my newer RX Pro, along with a set of inner bar ends to try that out for my occasional commutes to work (20+km each way). The other reason I want to try the inner bar ends, is that I think I can still do a little mild braking from that position easier than with the outer bar ends. Either way, the Rize bikes come with a generous 3 finger brake lever and a wide ~700mm bar, so moving them inboard an inch will still let me two-finger brake the way I like. If you already have stubby brake levers or narrower bars, it may not be quite as easy to fit everything on the bar.
Not really Fraud but not legal either. A patent violation? If you copyHow is copying someone else's patent and design called in English?
Or just plain FAKESTheft...fraud...copyright infringement
Totally agree. I think the counterfeit components are dangerous. Not worth the savings.Or just plain FAKES
Typically a quarter to a third of the price, all reversed engineered with no design or development needed, no expensive marketing. Often 80% of the product for 25% the price. Morally wrong and i wouldn;t go near anything like carbon bars/stems/seats from such sellers
Hello Stefan,In the self-styled way, I acclaim the Ergon GP3 the best bike grips ever made! Some tips will follow:
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First of all, the GP3 come in two sizes. Buy the Large variety only in case you have really large hands. The Ergons might be too wide to fit your gadget-crammed handlebars, and it is also better not to change the brake lever position. If you still see the yellow interior of the grip after you have slid it fully onto the handlebar, you need to shorten the grip. Use a very sharp knife to shorten the grip -- and be cautious to not cut your fingers! (You have been warned) No yellow part should be visible with the properly slid grip. The wrist supports should point slightly upwards. Add the bar-ends. The angle is your choice, with 30-45 degrees being the most reasonable. Tighten the screw at 5 Nm. Again: No yellow part should be visible inside!
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The "normal" or "safety" hand position. Use it while riding with traffic or on crowded bike or multiple-use paths.
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Modern e-MTBs sport the "1-finger" brake levers; modern commuter e-bikes have the "2-finger" brake levers. Never place more fingers than necessary on the lever. While riding in a crowded area, rest your finger(s) on brake levers in a relaxed way; you don't want to make your fingers tired but you might want to brake rather fast.
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The "steering-wheel" or "trail" hand position. That's what makes the Ergons so great. You delicately rest your three fingers on the bar-end, while your thumb and little finger ensure a proper hold. You steer your e-bike as you were operating your car's steering wheel. That hand position is proper for very long rides and ensures the best control over the bike even in very rough terrain. The benefits:
I just want to tell you that I ride over 90% my long trips in the "trail" hand position. Specifically, uphill ride is extremely easy with that hand position. Note: You can move your hands to the "safety" position instantly, as the bar-ends are small.
- The hand doesn't get tired or numb (people with carpal tunnel syndrome will be delighted)
- You exercise the perfect control over your bike, especially with wide handlebars
- In rough terrain, you just tighten your grip a little bit for even better steering control
- During "washboard" sections of gravel roads, ease the hand-grip. The bar-end will travel vertically among your fingers, providing rapid-vibration protection to your hands -- especially, owners of rigid-fork e-bikes will be happy!
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The "Easy Rider" hand position. Use on a very long ride in safe environment when you are really tired. Rest your wrist and thumb on the wrist-support. The part of the palm near to the little finger shall rest where the bar-end-plug is normally located.
Falling with Your Bike
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There are two survival techniques, shall your bike fall:
- Jump off the bike as graciously as Bambi would do it and let the bike fall between your legs (It requires a long practice);
- Provided you're wearing the helmet, move your hands instantly to the "safety position" and just fall together with your e-bike. Your hands shall be on the grips and your feet shall stay planted on the pedals! Your head will probably hit the ground but it's protected. You might get some bruises. But your limbs won't get broken and the hands won't be damaged, as the latter are protected by the GP3 bar-end. Trust me: I know the best how to fall with the bike. The stains of sun-molten asphalt on my Trance E+ right-hand GP3 bar-end are the proof. The grip and my helmet took the most of the impact. And I have fallen with my bikes many times before I mastered the (1) technique
Hello Stefan,Alvin, I don't mind the rubber GP3s but I'm glad you've found your choice with the cork. To be clear, I only wear gloves in the wintertime.
Perhaps here?I'm new at posting anything so I am not sure where the following should be posted.
That’s the one I see. Wanted to be very sure.