Finally found a solution to bypass the speed limiter on the Moscow Plus!!!

ebikerescueriders

New Member
Region
Canada
I ve had the Moscow plus for about 2 years now and always thought it just didn't have the performance and zip I 've always wanted with an ebike. So i found a volt booster. I spliced the battery wire in the frame, fed a cable to the booster that I mounted on my bike rack the spliced the power cable that led to the controller and attached it to the booster. on the booster there is a low voltage cut off , constant current and volt booster potentiometer. I boosted the voltage just shy of 60v to 59.3 , adjust the amperage to just shy of 15 amps. (controller is a 15amp controller) then took it for a ride. I noticed right away my take off had 10x more power but as soon as I started coasting the controller kicked in and it would go back down to 32km an hour. Well ladies and gentlemen, when I changed the wheel size down to the lowest one with the power profile on max, i must of been hitting nearly 50km an hour and pushing 700 to 900 watts. I was flying like a bat out of hell, i kid u not it seemed that i wasn't burning as much juice then i expected. my range is better because it pushes the full wattage it can until you let go of the throttle. so alot of times im just coasting. so adjusting the tire size to bigger makes it less powerful, or adjusting the power setting to eco makes it push about 600 watts continuous . i know that I am going to burn out the motor twice as fast but for the $250 cad price tag its well worth it. what a relief now I am not impeding traffic and can get somewhere in actual good time.
 

Handlebars

Well-Known Member
Region
Canada
Interesting.
Nitpick: I would think, from what I've read, that adjusting the wheel size setting doesn't make it make it more or less powerful, it just changes the top speed attainable.
 

Fred

Active Member
Interesting.
Nitpick: I would think, from what I've read, that adjusting the wheel size setting doesn't make it make it more or less powerful, it just changes the top speed attainable.
Correct..it tricks the controller into thinling you are going slower than you are as the controller only measures RPM
 

Timpo

Well-Known Member
I ve had the Moscow plus for about 2 years now and always thought it just didn't have the performance and zip I 've always wanted with an ebike. So i found a volt booster. I spliced the battery wire in the frame, fed a cable to the booster that I mounted on my bike rack the spliced the power cable that led to the controller and attached it to the booster. on the booster there is a low voltage cut off , constant current and volt booster potentiometer. I boosted the voltage just shy of 60v to 59.3 , adjust the amperage to just shy of 15 amps. (controller is a 15amp controller) then took it for a ride. I noticed right away my take off had 10x more power but as soon as I started coasting the controller kicked in and it would go back down to 32km an hour. Well ladies and gentlemen, when I changed the wheel size down to the lowest one with the power profile on max, i must of been hitting nearly 50km an hour and pushing 700 to 900 watts. I was flying like a bat out of hell, i kid u not it seemed that i wasn't burning as much juice then i expected. my range is better because it pushes the full wattage it can until you let go of the throttle. so alot of times im just coasting. so adjusting the tire size to bigger makes it less powerful, or adjusting the power setting to eco makes it push about 600 watts continuous . i know that I am going to burn out the motor twice as fast but for the $250 cad price tag its well worth it. what a relief now I am not impeding traffic and can get somewhere in actual good time.
What's booster?
Is that something you add to the controller?
 

Pulsar

Member
Region
USA
City
DFW
I’m sort of interested in the booster too, just from an electronic standpoint. To increase voltage generally a transformer is required and that increase usually cost you some current. No free ride typically so wonder how your battery performance will compare before boosted to after boosted?
 

ebikerescueriders

New Member
Region
Canada
It uses an inductor and mosfet switches to fill capacitors. no transformer used in this booster. if you do decide to get a booster. make sure to get the one in the link. there are others on amazon, but none can push voltage and amperage as well as this one. up to 1500W. I forgot to put the link. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DMVTHQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as for battery consumption, I know these booster are very efficient .Conversion Efficiency: 92% to 97% (Efficiency is related to input/output voltage, current and voltage difference. The smaller difference is, the higher efficiency will be) I was always felt because the bike was limited, the longer you hold down the throttle the more juice you burn. now the torque and take off speed are way higher so I tend to not use the throttle nearly as much. i think its help my range. I build batteries and repair ebikes for a living so I am building an extra battery that will help increase my range .
 

Fred

Active Member
It uses an inductor and mosfet switches to fill capacitors. no transformer used in this booster. if you do decide to get a booster. make sure to get the one in the link. there are others on amazon, but none can push voltage and amperage as well as this one. up to 1500W. I forgot to put the link. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DMVTHQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as for battery consumption, I know these booster are very efficient .Conversion Efficiency: 92% to 97% (Efficiency is related to input/output voltage, current and voltage difference. The smaller difference is, the higher efficiency will be) I was always felt because the bike was limited, the longer you hold down the throttle the more juice you burn. now the torque and take off speed are way higher so I tend to not use the throttle nearly as much. i think its help my range. I build batteries and repair ebikes for a living so I am building an extra battery that will help increase my range .
Interesting indeed. Where are you located in case I wanted a repair or battery build? I suppose a 52V battery (58.8V fully charged) would have a similar effect? You can get them in the Reention Dorado format.
 

ebikerescueriders

New Member
Region
Canada
when using a volt booster , the greater the difference between actual and boosted will affect the amperage. u could use a 12v battery and boost it to 60v but you wont draw the amps u need to power the bike. I am in london ontario. look me up on google Ebike Rescue Riders. if im not local to you i can ship no problem. my supplier is in canada and has 10000 of thousands of good cells.
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
Look for DC-DC booster on ebay. Around 25 bucks on ebay, shipped out of China. They'ye limited to about 20 amps output. I conneted one betweem my 20A KT controller and my 36V battery. Running a 500W motor.

With about 1200W going out, it needs at least that much from the battery, and the current will be proportional to the DC boost. WHen I set it to 48V, for every 10A of current out, I needed 15 A from my 36 volt battery. When I set it to 60V, the controller wanted 20A, but the booster wanted over 40A. Blew the battery fuse and had to pedal my fat tire bike home on 5 PSI tires. End of science project.

A few recharges later, the battery suddenly failed. One row of cell was badly unbalanced, amd I wonder if it was fromasking for 40A, . or maybe the BMS faulted.


sixty.jpgP4200115.jpg
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
No free lunch. As a kid I blew up a boiler from bypassing systems and that blew out three walls of our house. Something has got to give. And somethings are great until they are not. Then they are very bad.
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
Whew, no boiler explosion here, but a battery fire would be just as bad. I diagnosed my battery and repaired it, another science project in itself.

The booster would work for on my first 36V bike, where 45 volts would run the bike in a sweet spot for power w/o stressing the 50V caps in the controller. But I like the bike like it is. And on my other ebikes, it's easier to just put in a 48V battery. There's also the 30% conversion loss. They claim 5%, but my wattmeters disagree.