It could be overheating. Many motors have a temperature sensor to allow the controller to shutdown the motor and prevent damage if it gets too warm.
That makes sense and is my thoughts. I tried deregulating it on my day off and it accelerated the overheating so I'm not sure I can over regulate in the summer with the bike it seemsIt could be overheating. Many motors have a temperature sensor to allow the controller to shutdown the motor and prevent damage if it gets too warm.
Around the SF Bay you can pick up a good used IGH town bike for $300-$400. I have done many Public Bikes IGH conversions. I pop on a beefy chain and drop the rear cog to 16-t. Upgrading the brake pads to longer ones is a good idea with a motor.The motor cutting out going over a bump is an indication of a loose connector or wire. Shutting off going up a long hill might be overheating. I wouldn't give up on the bike just yet.
IGH's are great, but derailleurs work just fine. I have some IGH bikes, but my favorite bikes have derailleurs. They are my favorites because of the way they fit and feel while riding them. The main advantage of an IGH is that you can shift gears while you are not moving. Since you are on such a tight budget, it would be a mistake to limit your choices to just IGH bikes. Start with a list of features you want on the bike and prioritize them. Battery size, weight, bike geometry/seating position, back rack for your milk crate or panniers, front suspension, etc.
Since you have experience working on the bike now, DIY is also an option. You could pick up a used IGH bike from Craigslist and put a BBS02 or TSDZ2 mid-drive on it. I think @PedalUma uses the TSDZ2 kits and they have the advantage of a torque sensor. I don't have any personal experience with mid-drive kits, but I understand that they are very easy to install.
Would be a shame to give up on it. If that is where it belongs, so be it. But I will try to save it as best I can. I rode almost 1000 miles on it this summer, in the morning on my 8 mile commute it was very good and this bad boy changed my life in so many great ways, why not keep it alive?Or....maybe a museum will be interested in your Charger....jest sayin.
Sry, I wasn´t aware it was that operational; any ride is better that no ride. I´ve had my share of rescue bikes too.Would be a shame to give up on it. If that is where it belongs, so be it. But I will try to save it as best I can. I rode almost 1000 miles on it this summer, in the morning on my 8 mile commute it was very good and this bad boy changed my life in so many great ways, why not keep it alive?
Shop manual says battery voltage gets too low,
if the system turns off after the stby and 3 blinks. Often people buy
Internet batteries that are crap. Not designed for continuous
discharge, but rather occasional back-up. They work but not for long as
the plates warp eventually. Most outlets don't rotate stock properly
and never balance pairs so their equal in capacity.
If it's batteries, we have good ones for $110 plus 20 shipping (set).
Lithium including charger for $275 plus 20 ship.
Looks like someone bought lithium batteries for the bike not
understanding lithium chemistry requires at least 15 Amp hours of
capacity to handle 375 Watts continuous power (or momentary 1.5 HP).
Cells deteriorate quickly if battery doesn't have adequate capacity.
Lithium iron phosphate is the best type but generally cannot handle more
than 1C discharge (15 Amps for 15 Amp hour size). Watts = Volts x Amps
(390 = 26 x 15)
Also, some lithium battery venders claim their batteries can be charged
with lead acid chargers. That's true to a point, but since the Charger
bike battery charger only charges up to 27V or so, compared with lithium
that requires about 29V...you don't get full charge and the batteries
don't last well (both run time and charge-recharge cycles).
Prices I quoted were for cells only (lead acid), or cells and special
charger for the lithium. No extra packs other than for new bike
New bikes are now $700 with lead acid or $950 with lithium. Shipping is
about $120 to the East Coast now.
Lead acid weight of 12Ah size is 23 lbs. Lithium battery weight is less
than 10 lbs.
Advantage of LFP battery:
2. 4 times number of charge-discharge cycles compared with lead acid
(2500 vs 10000) when discharging to automatic low voltage cut-off. Many
more cycles if not discharged completely. For example, lead acid can
get many years of cycles if only discharged 10 to 30 percent instead of
80 percent (so long as they're kept charged and not abused in ultra cold
or hot temperatures). Lithium also lasts longer if not discharged as
deeply, and can handle being discharged with no problem of sulfation,
which kills batteries.
3. Higher 26V vs. 24V for lead acid. It stays at 26 whereas lead acid
starts sloping down so that at halfway discharge you're at 22, then on
down to 21 when there's a cut off.
Disadvantage of LFP battery:
1. Battery meter does not work since lead acid has a sloping curve
discharge and lithium stays at high voltage until the very end then
drops quickly. Also, for some reason some power packs show a blinking
standby light when using lithium. It can be rectified by taping over
the light. We don't know why this happens. My own bike has done this
since lithium was put in 6 years ago, so taped over the light.
NOTE ON TEMPERATURE. In these high temp days the thermister will cut
power to protect motor from overheating. I cannot use my bike at the
Central Valley town where we warehouse these days. Once thermometer
reaches 95 or so, system could cut off on you.