Go SwissDrive rear hub drive motor repair

ckupcu

New Member
Congratulations on a great job!
...
Happy riding.

Actually, my saga continued another 2 weeks after the GSD fixed. I will post the details soon. In the meanwhile, I will ask Ortlinghaus about the detail if they changed my electronics or used as as - I am also very curious :)
 

ckupcu

New Member
Could the stator being reworked to fit the threaded ring from dt swiss? https://www.dtswiss.com/en/technology/wheel-technology/pawl-technology/


That would be great fix for the issue actually, why not. Then you need to distroy the aluminum stator. If you are lucky, the new DT Swiss Threading diameter is smaller than the Stator diameter and you can still replace the Stator in the worst case... But I neither have tools for threading, nor the old parts to try...

Cengiz
 

Chris-turbo-s

New Member
That would be great fix for the issue actually, why not. Then you need to distroy the aluminum stator. If you are lucky, the new DT Swiss Threading diameter is smaller than the Stator diameter and you can still replace the Stator in the worst case... But I neither have tools for threading, nor the old parts to try...

Cengiz
I would need to have an old stator to try. I know some metal workshops that could easaly do the mechanical rework of the metal parts.
 

ckupcu

New Member
I would need to have an old stator to try. I know some metal workshops that could easaly do the mechanical rework of the metal parts.

There are time to time broken GSD motors in Ricardo.ch, you have to watch regularly... Especially the ones from ET1.
 

prasi00

New Member
Region
Europe
Hi Guys,
Bit of advice needed. I have Go Swiss Drive 250d. Last year it will intermittently stop working. When I play around with the contacts from the hub to the battery it will come to life again. This spring it will not come to life though. I cleaned all contacts but no result. I am trying to find out if the fault is in the hub or in the controller on the handlebars. The battery is charged - reads 41.5v after standing all winter. I can see 41.5v flowing through the cable towards the hub. Power also goes up to controller in the handlebar but it does not come on. I am very reluctant to take apart the hub as it looks a difficult job. How can I rule out a problem in the handlebar controller. If the hub is unplugged should the controller still work? It is an old version 1.24.

Thank you!
 

Chris-turbo-s

New Member
The rear hub can be disconnect and reconnected anytime. Only disassembling is tricky. You need to reassemble everything in exact same position.
Your problem sounds like a wiring harness problem. I just experienced one with my bike. There was some current leakage between the + and the controller cable of the motor (see pic). I will fix this and continue to ride my bike :)
 

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Chris-turbo-s

New Member
Biggest effort it took me to find the contacts to mate the motor connector. With 2.5mm^2 cables and the TE connectivity contacts 212008-1 I could rebuild the wiring.
The current limitation of the contacts is 32A. The efficiency loss with the 2.5mm^2 is about 1%. Thicker cables will not fit through the chain stay of the turbo.
 

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paraurs

New Member
Region
Europe
Hi all,

Similar project here:

I also got another used 45km/h Go Swissdrive hub motor from a 26" Stöckli speed pedelec with only 2600km while mine had about 20'000km with broken bearings. My first idea was to combine the parts from those two motors but byside the fact that mine is 29" (may be another firmware/programming for 45km/h) there was also a different axle which made everything quite complicated. While the newer one has a usual 10mm "screw-axle" mine has a 12mm thru axle or better said a 15/12mm hollow axle which got destroyed by demounting (impossible to srew the M14 thread on the 1.5mm thick steel tube off from the aluminium body). Finaly I decided to repair mine from scratch, build a own 15/12mm hollow axle made from aluminium and weld it directly to the aluminum motor body plus weld the torque lever directly to it due the little original steel torque lever was not stable on the aluminium axle. More in video.

Now I still have all the parts in good conditions of the Go Swissdrive from the 26" wheel and some batteries.

For another project I would be searching the following parts:
- Display
- Display mount
- Go Swissdrive Bikebus (not Canbus) 45km/h also for an 29" wheel

Anyone? -> urs@freeminds.ch or Whatsapp/Signal to +41 76 221 43 07
 

paraurs

New Member
Region
Europe
Hi Guys,
Bit of advice needed. I have Go Swiss Drive 250d. Last year it will intermittently stop working. When I play around with the contacts from the hub to the battery it will come to life again. This spring it will not come to life though. I cleaned all contacts but no result. I am trying to find out if the fault is in the hub or in the controller on the handlebars. The battery is charged - reads 41.5v after standing all winter. I can see 41.5v flowing through the cable towards the hub. Power also goes up to controller in the handlebar but it does not come on. I am very reluctant to take apart the hub as it looks a difficult job. How can I rule out a problem in the handlebar controller. If the hub is unplugged should the controller still work? It is an old version 1.24.

Thank you!
Hi,

If the cable to the hub shoud be ok, there are still severall possibilities. For example my bike (Stöckli ET2) originally had sliding contacts between battery and seattube which made it possible to easily remove the battery but also generated a lot of potential faults (oxidation, contact springs etc). That seems to be main issue with this model so i decided to hardwire all three contacts (36V, 0V and bikebus). You may see this at beginning of the video I posted in the last comment. But then I had a similar issue like yours, voltage was there and also bus connection...but it was not possible to switch on. I found that there was a sense contact in battery to detect if it is mounted inside or outside of the tube. Luckily this sense contact was also wired up to the charger port (for what reason ever...) but all i finally had to do was to buy a plug on which I bridged this sense contact to 0V. Now I have like an electrical key, system switches just on if key (bridged plug) is connected.

Good luck,

Urs
 

Chris-turbo-s

New Member
The wiring harness is fixed, all works fine. Between the wires I put some Silicone to seal off the connector.
I am quite sure that the insulation was overheated during production time back in 2012. I was just lucky to have it working up to now and there was no additional damage to the other components.
 

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Chris-turbo-s

New Member
@Triker45
Many thanks for the information. Looking for replacement parts on the market and finding out how to do fixes are challanges. Have the bike performing after the fix is like being in heaven. It is all about this.
E-bikeshop.de I know, I have already purchased parts from there. They provide good service.