Haibike SDuro (Yamaha) Trekking RC -- Tips on replacing display mount?

Nick S

New Member
Per my other thread, I received the replacement display mount today. I'm planning to try to replace the mount myself.

Has anyone else replaced the Yamaha display mount on one of these bikes, or a similar bike? If so, any tips on how to do so? Haibike support indicated that I will want to remove two of three motor mounting bolts and allow the motor to pivot out of the way to get access to where the display connection plugs into the motor / controller.

It'd be awesome to see a diagram of which bolts / parts to remove, as well as any tips people may have on how to thread the cable through the frame to handlebars. Seems like I could tape a strong line to the old display mount cable before threading it out of the frame, then tape the line to the new cable and pull it back the other direction to the motor.

Thanks in advance for any tips!
 

Ravi Kempaiah

Well-Known Member
Per my other thread, I received the replacement display mount today. I'm planning to try to replace the mount myself.

Has anyone else replaced the Yamaha display mount on one of these bikes, or a similar bike? If so, any tips on how to do so? Haibike support indicated that I will want to remove two of three motor mounting bolts and allow the motor to pivot out of the way to get access to where the display connection plugs into the motor / controller.

It'd be awesome to see a diagram of which bolts / parts to remove, as well as any tips people may have on how to thread the cable through the frame to handlebars. Seems like I could tape a strong line to the old display mount cable before threading it out of the frame, then tape the line to the new cable and pull it back the other direction to the motor.

Thanks in advance for any tips!

This is how you do it. Just make sure you tighten those bolts to the correct torque spec once done.

 

Nick S

New Member
This is how you do it. Just make sure you tighten those bolts to the correct torque spec once done.
Thanks so much, Ravi! I assume it's the 3 6mm hex head motor bolts where the torque (22Nm) is more important, rather than the 4 3mm motor cover bolts? I do have a torque wrench, but I don't have a 3mm hex socket. I'll just make sure they're nice and snug.

For any reading this before watching the video, the bolt you loosen but leave in to pivot the motor is the rearmost 6mm bolt (around the 6 minute mark). It's a little unclear if you even need to remove the motor cover bolts, but I'll find out. The display cable connector has 4 wires; at least in the video, they are orange, red, brown, and black.

I am actually planning to autopsy the old display mount before I remove it, on the off chance I may find an easy fix (bad solder joint, etc.). It may turn out I don't need to replace the mount after all, but we'll see.
 

Ravi Kempaiah

Well-Known Member
I assume it's the 3 6mm hex head motor bolts where the torque (22Nm) is more important, rather than the 4 3mm motor cover bolts? I
That's right, Nick.
As you suggested troubleshooting the display before opening the motor is a good idea.
 

Nick S

New Member
Just a quick update -- I received the replacement display mount / button pad from Raleigh support, and had time over the long Memorial Day weekend to replace it. I took a 4-5 mile test ride, and did not see the error re-appear, so fingers crossed, the issue is resolved. I did open the old display mount before swapping in the new one, but found no obvious problems / loose wires.

One problem I ran into during the replacement was that two of the three 6mm cap head motor bolts (that have a ring marked 22 NM around the head) were hard to remove, one in particular. After removing it, I found that the last 1/2" of threads were damaged. It seems likely that it was crossthreaded or heavily over-torqued during assembly. I'll need to replace the bolt, and I'm hoping that the threading on the frame isn't damaged.
 

DTFkuhneye

New Member
Could any of you post any tips on doing this?

Is this as simple as the video linked above shows? A straight forward disconnect the old part then feed the new part into the motor and reconnect?

I've ordered a new display holder and it should arrive later today. I hope to do this Monday and am a little apprehensive.

I've used some heavy duty Velcro to keep it going the last 9+ months but it does have a tendency to cut in and out over rough ground and goes a bit mental in the rain. The broken display holder ends up chewing through new LCD displays after a few months. The back of LCD display is only 4 months old and it's my 3rd one I've had. Bought 2 last year alone and one more this week.
 

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JayVee

Well-Known Member
Could any of you post any tips on doing this?

Is this as simple as the video linked above shows? A straight forward disconnect the old part then feed the new part into the motor and reconnect?

I've ordered a new display holder and it should arrive later today. I hope to do this Monday and am a little apprehensive.

I've used some heavy duty Velcro to keep it going the last 9+ months but it does have a tendency to cut in and out over rough ground and goes a bit mental in the rain. The broken display holder ends up chewing through new LCD displays after a few months. The back of LCD display is only 4 months old and it's my 3rd one I've had. Bought 2 last year alone and one more this week.
I imagine you ordered something like this kit:


Many of these Haibikes have a ‘sock’ in the down tube. It holds the cables together. This is something of a problem because it’s not that easy getting new cables back into that sock. Because the ‘sock’ clogs the downtube you might also have trouble running the cable down it. I took a stiff wire and attached some dental floss to it. Then I ran the wire down the downtube. When that was done I attached the remote cables to the dental floss at the top and pulled the whole thing down. I've done this a couple of times already and have ignored the sock each time. Getting the connectors undone on the drive side can also be tricky. I can't remember exactly you do it but I had to use a small flathead screw driver to gently unlatch them. Last challenge: you'll have to stuff the cables back up the downtube so that they are out of the way when you go to close the drive. It might take you a few tries. Pretty sure there's a "professional" way to do all this, but so far I haven't found it.

Good luck !
 

DTFkuhneye

New Member
Well I barely got to work today. My LCD just kept coming loose uphill, downhill, on the flat, over speed bumps. Loads of wind too.

I've given up working.

Time to go home and pull an all nighter to install parts.
 

DTFkuhneye

New Member
Just got started and 3 of the Allen key bolts came out no problems but one of them the head stripped. So now I'm stuck with the bash guard on.

I've watched some YouTube video on getting out stripped Allen bolts but nothing works because of where the bolt is deep in the "bash guard".

Only possible solution I can think of is to somehow cut or break the bash guard and then use a grip to twist the bolt out. So new bolt at a minimum + a new bash guard too??!

What a day ey..?

Any ideas?
 

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DTFkuhneye

New Member
Well I got it done in the end.

The bash guard is quite stiff but also flexible in a very tough way. It took some fiddling and trial and error but I managed to twist it around and bend it out the way so I could lift the motor as shown in the video linked above.

What JayVee mentioned about getting the cables back in the downtube and out of the way was very useful. I tried a few times but could not get the 2 large bolts to fit - until I remembered what JayVee mentioned.

Thank you very Much: Nick S, Ravi Kempaiah & JayVee!

Just took my ebike for a little test run and it all works. Tomorrow I'll work and give it a proper testing.
 

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DTFkuhneye

New Member
Yeah it was well messy!

The bright side of being forced to do this last night is that I've now seen how I can do this & now I'm considering taking the motor off completely to open it and inspect the motor bearings and inners (as per the links on here for performancelinebearings.com).

I was considering taking it into performancelinebearings.com for a full service at some point but the distance to travel + travel costs + time off work + lost earnings meant that it was a low priority. Now I feel slightly confident that I can possibly service grease and bearings myself. Be a whole day job I'd guess, being methodical and careful, but a lot cheaper.
 
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mcgrit

New Member
Yeah it was well messy!

The bright side of being forced to do this last night is that I've now seen how I can do this & now I'm considering taking the motor off completely to open it and inspect the motor bearings and inners (as per the links on here for performancelinebearings.com).

I was considering taking it into performancelinebearings.com for a full service at some point but the distance to travel + travel costs + time off work + lost earnings meant that it was a low priority. Now I feel slightly confident that I can possibly service grease and bearings myself. Be a whole day job I'd guess, being methodical and careful, but a lot cheaper.
I have been getting the dreaded er15 code on my Yamaha display. Seems Ok for first 30 seconds then up it comes. I have ordered a new display mount, but a temporary fix using a zip tie to hold the display screen firmly in place on the unit is working really well. Will let you know how I get on with replacing the mount, the information above will be really helpful.
 

DTFkuhneye

New Member
I have been getting the dreaded er15 code on my Yamaha display. Seems Ok for first 30 seconds then up it comes. I have ordered a new display mount, but a temporary fix using a zip tie to hold the display screen firmly in place on the unit is working really well. Will let you know how I get on with replacing the mount, the information above will be really helpful.
I'm on my 4th display and 2nd display holder & done nearly 23 000 miles.

My experience of er15 is that the actual LCD display is worn out at the 2 slots that mounts the display holder. The LCD display is made from a softer plastic so wears out much faster than the display holder.

Tip: I buy parts from ridewill for LCD display etc as they're much cheaper than from UK (sometimes 40% the cost).[/QUOTE]
 

FlatSix911

Well-Known Member
Just a quick update -- I received the replacement display mount / button pad from Raleigh support, and had time over the long Memorial Day weekend to replace it. I took a 4-5 mile test ride, and did not see the error re-appear, so fingers crossed, the issue is resolved. I did open the old display mount before swapping in the new one, but found no obvious problems / loose wires.

One problem I ran into during the replacement was that two of the three 6mm cap head motor bolts (that have a ring marked 22 NM around the head) were hard to remove, one in particular. After removing it, I found that the last 1/2" of threads were damaged. It seems likely that it was crossthreaded or heavily over-torqued during assembly. I'll need to replace the bolt, and I'm hoping that the threading on the frame isn't damaged.
Well done. Did you replace the display with the same LCD type or upgrade to the Type X?

1587964202852.png
 

mcgrit

New Member
Ah, so you replaced the 2016 LCD display/mount with the LED version shown in the left hand picture? If so does it have compatible electrical connector next to the motor?

ps can you share a link to that information as I can't find it
Thanks
 
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Don Lopez

New Member
Well done. Did you replace the display with the same LCD type or upgrade to the Type X?

View attachment 50903
I have a similar question to "mcgrit" that I'm hoping you can answer. I have a 2018 Haibike Sduro Hardnine 1.0 and would like to know if it’s possible to change/convert my LED display to an LCD display or maybe even to the Sideswitch display?
 

FlatSix911

Well-Known Member
Ah, so you replaced the 2016 LCD display/mount with the LED version shown in the left hand picture? If so does it have compatible electrical connector next to the motor?
ps can you share a link to that information as I can't find it
Thanks
I have a similar question to "mcgrit" that I'm hoping you can answer. I have a 2018 Haibike Sduro Hardnine 1.0 and would like to know if it’s possible to change/convert my LED display to an LCD display or maybe even to the Sideswitch display?
Just to clarify... I have 2 EBikes outfitted with the new Yamaha motor/display/battery systems.
One PW-SE and one PW-X: both have the upgraded CANBUS LCD display on the right diagram.

If you have the original PW motor, then only the LED or original LCD display are compatible... left diagram.
Hope this helps. ;)

1588530313780.png
 
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