Haibike XDURO RX 29 Review

turbobeagle

New Member
This site was very helpful as I learned about electric bikes, and I figured I'd contribute a review back to the community for my recently purchased Haibike XDURO RX 29. I've owned the bike for about 2 weeks now, and have used it for my daily commute which is 20 miles each way. I've only made a couple changes to the bike:
  • The store swapped out the tires for smaller and slicker 700x48s.
  • SPD pedals, just because that's what I'm used to.
Overall:
  • I'm really happy with it. It's more than lived up to my expectations.
The Good:
  • I'm getting good range so far. I lose about 1 bar of charge (out of 5) after 14 miles of riding. So unless the system is fudging the the battery charge level, that means I should get up to 70 miles on a charge. I leave it in "eco" mode 99% of the time.
  • The application of electric assistance is very smart. Before buying the bike, I thought I would have to turn up the power level manually to tackle hills or headwinds, but it turns out the computer does that for you, and it does so quite well. I also like how it tapers the assistance off gradually as you approach the cutoff speed, rather than just cutting out abruptly.
  • Having a separate controller right at my fingertips to adjust power levels and display modes allows me to keep my hands where they should be.
  • I like the clean look with the cables routed into the top and bottom tubes.
The Not-so-good:
  • The range indicator is wildly off. It's basically useless. You should just look at the battery indicator instead. I think the system tries to calculate an estimated range based on a really short time/distance window of recent riding so it fluctuates wildly within seconds.
  • The Bosch system has some features removed/crippled, which I assume is done only for the US market. For example, there is a "walk" button which is supposed to provide some assistance while walking with the bike. That does nothing on my bike. The manual also claims that the computer's recorded circumference of the wheel+tire can be adjusted, just like you can do with any bike computer. I would have wanted to do this since the store swapped smaller tires on for me. That is also not possible. So I suspect the computer doesn't actually have accurate readings for speed and distance.
  • I am hearing quite a lot of rattling over bumpy roads that I can't pinpoint. Some of it seems to be coming from the cables routed inside the frame. The bike shop says they should be able to eliminate this at my next tune up, so hopefully that's a simple fix.
  • The rear break squeals, and I'm feeling a grinding sensation in the lever. Hopefully that's just another adjustment that needs to be made at the tune up.
  • Bosch doesn't allow us to update the firmware ourselves. Other manufacturers are ahead on this front, and some even do updates wirelessly. It would suck to have to pay for updates later.
Other Observations:
  • Going electric has eliminated the anxiety with having to stop at a light and waste energy braking. I now almost look forward to having to stop, because the surge from the motor when you get going is fun.
  • I already have a road bike so I figured I'd get something closer to a mountain bike for my electric bike, in the hope that I might one day hit the trails. I'm starting to wonder if this was a mistake. I think I should have gotten something without suspension. The motor more than makes up for the added weight of the suspension, but I miss the lighter steering of a regular fork.
  • I don't mind the sound of the motor. I don't miss having a throttle. Online reviews usually point these out as the two major downsides to the Bosch system, but for me, they haven't been an issue.
  • I hope the Bosch Powerpack 400 becomes a new standard that lasts several years. When my battery does degrade to the point that it needs to be replaced, I hope there's a decent marketplace to find a new unit at an affordable price. That's clearly not the case at the moment.
 

Shea N Encinitas

Active Member
The manual also claims that the computer's recorded circumference of the wheel+tire can be adjusted, just like you can do with any bike computer. I would have wanted to do this since the store swapped smaller tires on for me. That is also not possible.
Hold the Reset & Info buttons down for approximately 3 seconds while the controller is on the bike and a main battery installed, it will not work off the bike. This puts you in configuration mode and I was able to make the adjustment, as a test for you just moments ago. -S

EDIT: BTW - the range indicator is pretty accurate for me. I have noticed that if you leave the bike on a power assist level while hanging out on a break (or the beach, etc) it can become confused. Court suggested the distance calculation is based on the last five miles or so, but I'm not sure if that was speculation or information for someone with the facts. Can't believe you are in Eco 99% of the time, I'm unlocked in Turbo 99% of the time, with a 2nd battery. Cheers.
 
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Ann M.

Well-Known Member
@turbobeagle you should get a more accurate range indicator once the correct tire size is programmed. I've included a pdf of the owner's manual in case you don't have this info. Page 15/16 have the information about resetting that Shea is talking about.

Haibike Owner's Manual
 

turbobeagle

New Member
@Shea N Encinitas Thanks so much for that tip! I'll try it when I get back to the bike. I was indeed only trying this with the display unit disconnected from the bike. I wonder why all the settings aside from this are configurable while disconnected. Perhaps the circumference is actually stored in memory on the bike somewhere. That would actually make sense; you might have a few Bosch ebikes and if you accidentally swapped display units between them, then having the circumference stored on the bike would avoid an incorrect setting. If that's the case, then that's quite clever.

@Ann M. Thanks for the link to the manual. I did receive a paper copy with my bike but it's nice to have an electronic version available.
 

Sherman

New Member
I believe the settings are stored in the engine.

Aligning hydraulic disc brakes is really easy. Basically loosen the caliper bolts, hold the brake hard (use rubber band etc) and tighten the bolts. Done. It's worth learning to do, as you may need to do it whenever you remove wheels for maintenance.
 

turbobeagle

New Member
Thanks @Sherman for the tip! The brakes have continued to squeal and pulse like crazy (getting worse it seems) so I'm definitely going to give your instructions a try. I tried cleaning the rotors with alcohol since that seemed to be a common simple suggestion online, but that hasn't helped. My bike shop is quite far from my house (which is why I haven't gone for my free tune-up yet) so I do indeed need to learn how to do this myself.
 

Sherman

New Member
It's easy to learn bike maintenance nowadays thanks to YouTube :) It has saved me couple of trips to the bike shop.

Here's one for the brakes:
 

turbobeagle

New Member
So I tried adjusting my brakes last night. I did end up getting it working, but couldn't do it per the instructions (loosen calipers, squeeze pedal, tighten calipers). When I tried to do it that way, the brakes just ended up being really badly aligned. I ended up having to eyeball it. This seemed to improve things significantly. There's still pulsing under hard braking, but the squealing is much improved. Wish I could figure out why the conventional instructions didn't work for me...
 

turbobeagle

New Member
Doesn't look warped when I spin the wheel and eyeball the gap to the pads. One more thing I noticed is that if I clean the rotors with alcohol then I get smooth stops, but only for a very short time. Like only 3 stops or so. After that the pulsing resumes again. Do you think I may have something bad on the pads? Looks like it's pretty easy to remove and clean so I might try that.

I should say I'm not talking about crazy hard or long stops. It's just commuting on flat roads where I usually brake from 35km/h or so.
 

stevenast

Well-Known Member
I know your dealer is far from you, but is there a regular bike shop near? They might solve your problem, and you could watch what they do, chalk it up to a learning experience?
 

Shea N Encinitas

Active Member
Do you think I may have something bad on the pads? Looks like it's pretty easy to remove and clean so I might try that.
Worth a go, maybe some acetone if you have any handy. Then try the break-in method of a few hard stops. I recently tried some metallic pads that were in stock and quickly replaced them with the proper resin composites (using factory part numbers), no pulsing but a bit squeaky and grindy. Good luck! -S
 

turbobeagle

New Member
@Shea N Encinitas Thanks for the tips! I could definitely see myself trying some non-metallic pads.

@stevenast I think I may actually sign up for one of these bike repair classes that I see several shops running. Honestly, it's kind of fun.

More thoughts about the motor system now that I've put some more miles on it:

- I've found that it's possible to game the system a bit through gear selection. For example, on days that I want to do more work on my own, I gear higher and the motor seems to help less. On lazier days, I gear lower (maintaining the same cadence), but end up at the same speed because the motor puts out more power. To be honest, I'm not sure I like this. I'm sure I'll get used to it, and I've already started to develop a habit of shifting down to draw more power out of the motor. I used a regular bike today, and that habit was definitely not good to carry over.

- The power level controller isn't quite as responsive as I'd like. You can't really "double tap" to increase/decrease the power level by 2 steps for example. You have to wait a half-second or so in between each tap.

- I sometimes feel an odd rubbing or vibration in the motor (I feel it in my feet through the crank arms). It seems to happen when I'm geared to high - for example if I forget to gear down before stopping at a light, and then try to just power through at a higher gear to get going.

Just to be clear: these are all minor gripes. The bike still brings a smile to my face everyday!
 

david lynch

New Member
Hi Guys, new to the Forum and looking for help.

I have the Haibike xduro cross rx and I want a new Cassette and chain. I have Zero knowledge about These things so here I am.

link to my bike specs is here : https://www.haibike.com/de/de
I think I have found a decent Cassette, the SRAM Cassette PG-990 but would love to hear from anyone with perhaps any other ideas.

Maybe someone could give me tips for everything, I don't want to buy cheap and so I don't mind spending a bit of Money.

Gratefull for any Tips.

BTW bike was bought new in September last year and I have tuned it.
 

turbobeagle

New Member
@david lynch Welcome to the forums. That is a sweet looking bike. Would love to hear what you think of it sometime. And on that note:

I might suggest you kick off a new thread though rather than posting the question here, because our bikes' drivetrains are quite different. I have a 10-speed vs a 27-speed in yours. It could get a bit confusing...
 

david lynch

New Member
Ok Thanks for the info
@david lynch Welcome to the forums. That is a sweet looking bike. Would love to hear what you think of it sometime. And on that note:

I might suggest you kick off a new thread though rather than posting the question here, because our bikes' drivetrains are quite different. I have a 10-speed vs a 27-speed in yours. It could get a bit confusing...
 

J.R.

Well-Known Member
Hey David,

Go to community main page and scroll down to Haibike Forum, open. At top right of page click on "Post New Thread", start typing. You'll get a lot more action for your question opening new thread. Good luck!