Help trouble shooting Ancheer Motor not responding

carferna

New Member
Folks...I would greatly appreciate your help in trouble shooting this issue. I bought an Ancheer ebike last Summer, it's the foldable one with Magnesium alloy spokes. The bike barely lasted 40 miles(approximately two charges). After, I one long ride of 12 miles, the bike just quite working the next day, the motor wouldn't respond to either the throttle mode or the pedal assist. No indication from the motor that is was even trying to move. The Display comes ON...shows it is fully charged. I can switch btwn the different modes(throttle mode, and the different pedal assist levels) but none of the modes work. The fact that the display comes up, horn and lights work, indicates to me that the battery is good. I got in touch with Ancheer and after a lot of back and forth, and several follow ups they diagnosed the issue to be related to the motor based on the symptoms I listed. They sent me the motor which was a hell of a task replacing but I some what managed. However, that still didn't resolve the issue.Well...I thought the next possible thing would be the controller, they were quick this time to send the controller. This at least was an easy task replacing, but unfortunately it didn't resolve the issue. I next thought, is perhaps the throttle cable might be bad but then again why also is the pedal assist not working...I am thinking these are two different parts. I am very frustrated, because this is not suppose to be all that hard to trouble especially after replacing the motor and controller....what else can it be. Could the display not really be switching even though the display is indicating it is in those modes? I also noticed when the display is turned ON, there is this very low sounding but high pitch humming noise coming from somewhere....it this normal?
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
Probably a wiring issue. Does your motor cable look like this? Round connector (ignore the white cap.) These connectors need to have the arrows aligned, and then firmly seated.

I've been caught several times with the connector not fully seated on my ebikes.

Good luck.

connie-.jpg
 

carferna

New Member
Mine are different..the hall sensors use a 6 pin molex connector and power cables are the individual 3 cables tat just click with the opposite end
0E12E0E3-8541-4303-9FEB-A175ACE220EA.jpeg
4944CED9-2BA3-4EA9-84A6-5B310BA2707F.jpeg

Probably a wiring issue. Does your motor cable look like this? Round connector (ignore the white cap.) These connectors need to have the arrows aligned, and then firmly seated.

I've been caught several times with the connector not fully seated on my ebikes.

Good luck.

View attachment 50194
 

Attachments

  • F3BC1CB3-EFDE-4D46-AAB3-56EF0D26DC03.jpeg
    F3BC1CB3-EFDE-4D46-AAB3-56EF0D26DC03.jpeg
    128.1 KB · Views: 96

harryS

Well-Known Member
How about the brake switches? They are normally open switches when the lever is closed. WHen the lever moves, the switches close and inhibit the motor.

If you unplug the brake cables to the controller, should be two of them, that's like the brakes are always off. WIll it run then?
 

carferna

New Member
I heard about the break inhibitors but I didn’t think mine had..upon closing looking it does have, but unfortunately upon removing the break inhibitors it still didn’t work. Anyways..since I already had the bike pulled a part I decided to do some more trouble shooting. My throttle, light switch and horn form one piece. At the controller end, the cable splits. The light and horn now are in one connector while the throttle goes through a separate connector. You recall in my original post i had mentioned there is a low sounding but high pitched humming sound when i turn on the bike. It seems when i plug in the throttle connector to the controller is wat triggers tat sound even though i am not pressing in the throttle.Plugging the lights and horn didn’t seem to trigger that sound. Do you think the throttle might be faulty tat is triggering a fault on the entire system? I will try to upload a video clip of tat high pitched humming noise. Harry thx again for trying to help me resolve this issue.
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
Darn. Should have been the brake switches.

Is this what you got?

I don't see it clearly in their picture, but the brake connector is usually a two pin plug. Sometimes two of them. Sometimes one, if they have already paralleled the two brake switches into one plug. Make sure that's unplugged.

With the Hall wires going into the molex plug, the color of the wires matches on both sides, red-red, black-black, yellow-yellow, green-green and blue-blue ?
 

carferna

New Member
Yes...It made more sense that it was an issue with the break inhibitor since both systems PAS and throttle are none functional...I had high hopes too :) .

Yes ...I followed the cable all the way from the break handle to the controller. Yes...It is a two pin and there were two identical two pin cables(for the front and back)...the two pins were color coded gray and black.

Yes...the hall wires have been wired correctly to the match the corresponding molex from the controller. I even tried firing the throttle while the hall wire molex was not connected, just with the motor phase cable connected and it was still a no go.

I am planning on purchasing the Electro car brushless motor controller tester.
 

carferna

New Member
Is the hum coming from the motor?

No it is coming from the controller as soon the throttle cable is plugged in. Note: At this point I am not pressing down on the throttle...I have simply connected the throttle cable to the controller.
 

carferna

New Member
I decided to measure the battery voltage yesterday...it seemed like the voltage was low, about 19v on a 36v battery. My voltmeter is flaking though and the probes aren't good...so I have ordered a new one so I can take a proper measurement. I never thought of measuring the voltage since the display was showing the battery as fully charged and the fact this is a new battery with barely 40 miles on. I guess a low can trigger the behavior I was observing?
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
You would never see a real19V out of a 36V pack. Itts internal circuitry would shut it off below 30V, so all you would see is leakage on the pins.

Two motors. Two controllers. Display turns on. The display can run by itself without a controller, so you want to see that. To do that, look for the power that runs the PAS sensor.

When you get a new meter, check the voltage between the black and red wires on the PAS connector to verify that you're turning on the controller. It should read 4.5V or a little higher. That will prove that the controller is turning on. You'll also see the same voltage across the red/black pins on the molex connector with the motor disconnected.

The electrocar ebike connector would also light up showing you had 5 volts when it is connected to the controller.
 

carferna

New Member
You would never see a real19V out of a 36V pack. Itts internal circuitry would shut it off below 30V, so all you would see is leakage on the pins.

Two motors. Two controllers. Display turns on. The display can run by itself without a controller, so you want to see that. To do that, look for the power that runs the PAS sensor.

When you get a new meter, check the voltage between the black and red wires on the PAS connector to verify that you're turning on the controller. It should read 4.5V or a little higher. That will prove that the controller is turning on. You'll also see the same voltage across the red/black pins on the molex connector with the motor disconnected.

The electrocar ebike connector would also light up showing you had 5 volts when it is connected to the controller.
The battery was also powering the lights and the electric horn in addition to the display. When I get the new meter I will be sure to charge the bike before measuring. Thx for all your help...I'll keep you updated.
 

carferna

New Member
Got my new meter. battery looks good, putting out 42v. The black and Red cable from the PAS puts out 4.4v and molex black and red puts 0.7v. However, when I disconnect the throttle cable from the controller, the molex will now put out 4.4v. I found that I can get my PAS to work only when the throttle cable is disconnected from the controller. Recall, I was mentioning that there is this low volume but high pitched sort of tone coming when I connect the throttle cable to the controller. I also measured the voltage on the controller pins that connect to connect to the throttle and I was surprised it was putting out 41v. I don't understand why there is 41v being put out of the controller on this path. Anyways...I would like to fix the throttle but I happy I can at least use the bike in some form. 90% of the time I use PAS away. Thanks for help.
 

harryS

Well-Known Member
Your Ancheer throttle is not just a throttle.

1) Does it have LED's that give your the battery status? IF so, it needs the battery voltage to read that status.

2) Does it have a button to start the bike? If so, that button usually returns the battery voltage back to the controller to start it.

Meanwhile, the throttle part is probably just a 3 pin magnetic sensor chip, plus a magnet in the throttle. The chip wires are ground, 4.5V and throttle signal. Something is wrong in the throttle that short circuits the 4.5V power and that keeps the PAS from working.

If you buy the same part, then it's easy to replace. If ypu buy a different type, you have to identify where all the wires go. With 42 volt of battery on at least one wire, you can't afford to make a wiring mistake.
 

jGecko

New Member
By the way, in case you didn't know it, Ancheer has a small (expensive) parts store for the Ancheer 20" folding AM001908 bike. (Might be ...1907 or ...1909 for the European models?)
If it comes to replacement...again...(multiple failures can occur, and what might have damaged one part in the first place may still damage its replacement part)
The US$40 controller is
although I'd personally rather replace both controller and display for an LCD number/iconographic display like KT-LCD3 or higher as long as it's all compatible with the motor and sensor inputs.

The throttle/horn/light switch integrated assembly is US$15

Have fun learning and fixing.
 
Last edited: