How do I fix my Ancheer Sunshine Bike Controller

[rusty9073]

Oh my gosh Timpo, thank you for pointing out that I was looking the wrong size controller! Haha! ...also, when you mentioned upgrading to a 9FET I thought it was a spelling error for "9 FEET" or something...I am really lacking knowledge in this area. After researching what 9FET means, I agree with you that if I am going to spend the money it totally makes sense to just upgrade the controller, however, I am going to chicken out on this, as I know pretty much nothing of what I am doing here. I know it is kind of dumb to do so as there is not much price difference in the two, but keeping things as identical as possible to what I have increases my chance of success based on my inferior experience.

So a couple of more questions for you all (and thank you again for all your help). I included a picture of my control panel and the connectors on the top of the bike. As you can see the control panel is pretty basic (throttle button on the other side of the bike). There are four wire connections on the top of the bike. I disconnected one and it looks identical to the connectors seen in the cables from you link that Timpo and harryS sent, so I think I am on the right track? Yeah, I have no experience soldering, so I am inclined to buy the cradle with pins already soldered. One question on the pins - I sent a photo of my pins on my cradle. The second pin from the top is kind of... squarish? The pins on the link from topbikekit does not have a square pin. I am thinking it would an OK interchange, but am not sure if that would be an issue.

My last dilemma is that I might buy this controller and it might be the motor problem all along? I am hoping it is not the motor, as Ancheer believed it was a controller issue when I described what was going on, and the guy at the ebike shop didn't mention anything wrong with the motor? Having no experience in ebike repair, testing the motor sounds pretty...complicated for me. I guess if I purchase this controller and it is not the problem I could resell the good controller I just purchased on ebay and get some of my money back.

Anyway, before I purchase that controller, let me know if you think the slight pin variation would be an issue, or if you think my control panel or connector might be a problem? Thank you guys again for taking the time to troubleshoot this with me.

 

[Timpo]

Obviously it's up to you, if you keep it 6FET then the motor will be exposed to less stress.
That said, you can increase the wattage relatively safely.
Many bike compabies are using 350W motor will controller that are meant for 750W.

I don't know why it's like that... usually the pin would looks something like this.
Does it have any locking mechanism?

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As for display, it will most likely be fine.
I said "most likely" because I found that some ebike company make their own firmware or something to prevent users to purchase the display somewhere else.

For example, there's a very popular display called 500C, and even though they all look identical externally, there are different versions.
Version 5.0, Version 5.1, etc.. and some of them are not interchangeable, but some are.

Again, it will most likely be fine, I wouldn't be too concerned about it, but just making you aware that there might be a chance that it may not work.

 

[rusty9073]

Hi - So...Update:

I went ahead and purchased the small Hailong battery case controller 36V set and it arrived this week. All the connections were the same and I connected all the wires, and then snapped on the battery. Usually, then I power up the display previously, the 5 red lights on the battery indicator show solid red. Unfortunately, when I power up the display with the new Hailong battery controller, the first of the 5 red lights just blinks and it still does not work. Connecting the old controller again shows the five solid battery full lights (and of course pedal assist and throttle not working with old controller as before). Not sure what might next step might be. Anyone have an idea what could be going on or how to resolve?

Thanks for your help,

Nate

 

[harryS]

What's the battery's actual voltage? The display is saying it's below 30V with the new controller.

It could mean that the LED display doesn't work right with that controller. Usually they will power up without the controller if you put the voltage to the right pins.

This is a different KT display but it shows the pins for a KT display. Your display has the same pins? The harness will have a female plug, so you could probe the ground and 36V pins to see what uou get.