How I bypassed the speed restriction on my NCM 500W/48V Moscow Plus 29er.

Bitmugger

Active Member
Region
Canada
Hi

I am doing some experimenting with the NCM C7 display.
There's a German site where they've downloaded new settings to the display and overcome the speed limitations. I am not interested in that so much as some other experiments I am looking into. The german site has this image


Here's a link to the overall thread:

I've taken a stab at translating the hand written German notes but if anyone is a German speaker can they chime in with improved translations?

1 - Web - RX (Receive)
2 - Green - TX (Transmit)
3 - Yellow
4 - Blue - ???…becomes + (pos) when displayable??
5 - Red - Power (Pos)
6 - Purple - +5v when controller on
7 - Grey - Brakes (0 ohm ???)
8 - Black - Power (Neg)

This is for the 8 pin wire that is the primary connection to the C7 display.

For my needs I'm probably ok but if anyone has better wiring notes or can translate the German better I'd be grateful. My guess for 3 is that it's the throttle signal but the blue wire is interesting and the purple wire. I haven't tested it yet, but I am assuming wire #5 (red) is 48v and #6 (purple) is +5v to power the display
 
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john peck

Well-Known Member
My moscow came with an L-7 display? I´ve got no issues. I don´t need to go 28 mph. As it came the
bike does 22 mph WOT & 25 PAS. Go figure? Messing with it just voids the warranty. The bike is set up
a certain way by the Germans for a reason & they don´t want it tampered with. It´s the same deal with the
Tanaka PF 4000 on my gas bike. A lot of guys on the gas forum have messed with carbs & mufflers to
get higher performance which only damages the engine. My 2 Tanakas, still stock, are 10 years old &
run better than new after break-in. The same can be said of my stock set up for the Das Kit motor. At
3k+ mi, that motor is still getting stronger,(or maybe I am?) On my ride yesterday it was as if the pedals
were just rotary foot rests even uphill. (I had just fine tuned the derailleurs)
 

fumbduck

New Member
Hi

I am doing some experimenting with the NCM C7 display.
There's a German site where they've downloaded new settings to the display and overcome the speed limitations. I am not interested in that so much as some other experiments I am looking into. The german site has this image


Here's a link to the overall thread:

I've taken a stab at translating the hand written German notes but if anyone is a German speaker can they chime in with improved translations?

1 - Web - RX (Receive)
2 - Green - TX (Transmit)
3 - Yellow
4 - Blue - ???…becomes + (pos) when displayable??
5 - Red - Power (Pos)
6 - Purple - +5v when controller on
7 - Grey - Brakes (0 ohm ???)
8 - Black - Power (Neg)

This is for the 8 pin wire that is the primary connection to the C7 display.

For my needs I'm probably ok but if anyone has better wiring notes or can translate the German better I'd be grateful. My guess for 3 is that it's the throttle signal but the blue wire is interesting and the purple wire. I haven't tested it yet, but I am assuming wire #5 (red) is 48v and #6 (purple) is +5v to power the display
German is not my first language but I can read/understand a little.
1 - White - RX (Receive)
2 - Green - TX (Transmit)
3 - Yellow
4 - Blue -Activate signal becomes + (pos) when displayable??
5 - Red - Power (Pos)
6 - Purple - +5v when controller on
7 - Yellow - Brakes (0 ohm ???)
8 - Black - Power (Neg) (the crossed out list on the left says "Brake lever signal"
You had most of them right Bitmugger.
Good luck with your experiment and let us know how you go
 
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fumbduck

New Member
My moscow came with an L-7 display? I´ve got no issues. I don´t need to go 28 mph. As it came the
bike does 22 mph WOT & 25 PAS. Go figure? Messing with it just voids the warranty. The bike is set up
a certain way by the Germans for a reason & they don´t want it tampered with. It´s the same deal with the
Tanaka PF 4000 on my gas bike. A lot of guys on the gas forum have messed with carbs & mufflers to
get higher performance which only damages the engine. My 2 Tanakas, still stock, are 10 years old &
run better than new after break-in. The same can be said of my stock set up for the Das Kit motor. At
3k+ mi, that motor is still getting stronger,(or maybe I am?) On my ride yesterday it was as if the pedals
were just rotary foot rests even uphill. (I had just fine tuned the derailleurs)
No one is saying they have 'issues' just some people like to experiment. Yours undoubtedly came with a 500 Watt hub motor whereas in a lot of other countries they can legally only be released with a maximum 250 Watt motor.
 

Bitmugger

Active Member
Region
Canada
John, my project(s) are a little less speed oriented, I too am very happy with the speed of the stock display. I also don't want to void my warranty so instead of cutting any wires or opening any of the electronics I have a cable that I can disconnect the display and place this cable in between to access the signals without modifying the bike. I won't so much as cut a wire or drill a hole in the bike until a year has gone by.

That German site has all the code and info on bypassing the speed, but my interest is elsewhere. Project 1 is already complete, I added an alarm (I think I got that idea from you John, I used many of your ideas, lol) and wanted to make it a complete system so I have a on/off "ignition" key like a motorcycle or car would have plus the alarm wired into a box on the front of the bike. The alarm is inside the box out of the weather and the keys + alarm fob hang from my handlebars. I needed to intercept power from the bike to enable or disable it so my extension cable granted me access. The ignition key could be easily bypassed with 5 min but it's more for the quick step into a corner store, I can just turn off the bike, press the alarm and put the keys in my pocket. If I could get a frame lock to fit next I'd be in heaven; right now I have to run a small lock through the wheel too.

The second project is I am working on a little display that will mount beside the C7 and predict how much range I have left in KM (or miles) and show me the temperature and will also ideally alert me when my battery is around 50%. I need to intercept power for that to monitor the battery voltage and either use a GPS chip to get speed and distance travelled or intercept the info coming to the C7 display. The GPS would be more independent from the bike and I could open source the project so people could use it on any e-bike. Intercepting the display signal and reverse engineering the data is more in line with my skill set (as my username might suggest, lol) and would be a cheaper project to build for people if I open source it but only useful for NCM and bikes that use the L7 & C7 displays. (BTW Grin sells a cycle analyst computer already built that does all this and much more, my project is a fun project not a practical project)
 
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