Because the Quest is a FWD MBB set-up and the desire for maintaining the Sram components, using a front wheel e-motor is perfect on the back wheel. The neat thing with a Cruzbike is that the Back Wheel is actually a front Wheel mounted where the back wheel would be and vice versa. Without changing the Sram drive set-up, adding an electric motor to the "rear wheel" is as easy as installing a front wheel e-motor where the back "non-drive" wheel is located.@bikerjohn I get it that you want to preserve your 3-speed internal Sram hub; the Cruze Quest is a nice 'bent. You're talking rear wheel and this is really a front wheel all-in-one; its in the specs you show above. Here's a little at home experiment to understand the impact of having all the weight of a motor, battery, controller, rim & axle inside the wheel vs. just a motor: Take a large (couple of gallons capacity) rigid bucket and add say a quart of water to it--now swing it in a circle to your side. Not too bad, a little awkward, but doable, like a typical hub motor for instance. Now, repeat the experiment with a gallon of water (yes, half of the bucket). Try that swinging again-- it's not so easy plus you're more likely to end up with an unplanned bath. Its a lot of weight. The idea is to get perspective on what a typical motor system feels like compared to an all-in-one. They're very different. And yes, I'm a bit of a skeptic on the extended range battery even approaching 40 miles, the math doesn't add up.
Ride it first before plunking down your $$; there are lots of proven systems if you want to do a rear or front wheel conversion with a Lithium system for $1K+
Alex, I suspected you were going to holler Pinhead about my question... Well that's the last time you'll insult me on this thread!JR,
Great question. I personally recommend the Pinhead M10 Axle Nut Security System - as this makes for a clean and secure install. When installed properly, this hardware makes it nearly impossible to remove the OMNI wheel without the Pinhead key. I do agree with you in that a cable lock is not secure enough for most cases. Another option is a longer U lock through the valve opening, but clearance can be an issue.
I like a setup where the wheel is secured to the fork, fork is secured to the frame, frame is secured to your locking point. It also makes it easy and worry free to lock up your bike quickly, and with only one lock.
For anyone looking for the exact opposite - a quick release option, there is also a M10 Quick Release kit available from various retailers, allowing for the use of a QR on a solid axle.
When the weather breaks around here I may get a chance to demo the system. I do have skepticism over the usefulness on 16-20 mile R/T commutes. And then there is the added weight making the set-up impractical for use as a supplemental power source for climbing on longer rides (25-50 mile tours). Finally, I continue to have reluctance over the price.